is it possible to get rustoleum or brightside tinted to "sublime green" like on new dytona r/t chargers?

About a year ago I stumbled upon this site, my cars clear coat gave up. I went ahead and read the first 40 pages before taking the task on myself. I don’t know why I didn’t join back than to post pictures of my results, but needless to say I was more than pleased. For those questioning the durability of rustoleum paint I have proof that it will pass the thumb nail test. I got into an accident a few days ago and unfortunately the paint looks better than my control arm. Now I’m waiting to get the car back before I reroll, thinking about changing the color to a blue. This time around I’ll keep a running log of my progress.

There may be a color close, but you would want to get the chart or have a quart mixed to see if you need to "customize" it.

I have some very interesting results for creating metallics w/rustoleum paint. Basically off-the-shelf rustoleum with pearl additive. I have been working mainly with grey to make silver and gun-grey metallics. I will post some pictures this weekend.

Only bad part is that you will need to clearcoat, the rustoleum with the pearl will only polish to semi-gloss at best. With a clearcoat however you can get some beautiful custom metallic colors. And it will have to be sprayed. I am using a $10 touch up gun and it works great.

Will have even better pictures when my clear rustoleum arrives.

-Nathan

does anyone make a paint close to the color of my car in my sig?

today i was lookin at a 2005 lincoln navigator up close.. it had a tremendous amt of orange peel.. more than my car, which i think i did kinda a half [Edited by Moparts - Keep it clean] job on the wetsanding and smoothing.. pretty funny

well, im about to dig into my camaro project tomorrow.. I was just wondering what process you guys used....

I'm thinking I'll do the following:

1) Body Work (ofcourse)
2) 500 grit to prepair for paint?
3) 1 Coat/Fix any visible mess-ups I missed
4) Wetsend 500 grit
5) 2x Coats
6) Wetsand 500 grit/3rd and 4th coat
7) Wetsand 500 grit/5th and 6th coat
8) more if needed
9) final coat, wetsand with 500 then move to 1500 then to polishing compound?

That sound about right? also how long did you guys want between the coats (before wetsanding) I think I rememeber reading about that but Id reallly not rather go through all 300some pages again.

this topic is long as hell, i read through 50 of the original pages over the course of 2 weeks, only to find out that that thread got locked and a new one was created, and found 79 more pages here! there is no way in hell i can read this much, so if any of the guys from the origin thread can sum up any MAJOR changes to the process for me i would greatly appreciate it. i still have copied down 69chargers preferred steps. is anything different now? i was quickly browsing through these post and found that swirl remover looked to give the best finish when all done, any tips like that are greatly appreciated.

I did a crash read on this thread and am going to try it. I have no experience painting a car so it will be a real learning experience.

I just found and bought a 1971 VW Safari ("Thing" in the U.S.). Good body except for some Cancer at the front fenders and had the floorplate replaced.

Thinking auto body and paint was cheap in Mexico (where I live), I got a couple of estimates. Clean up the body (Bondo City) and standard paint job was US$1,200 and I was quoted ONE-MONTH for the job, and I know this is Mexican time.

My concern is getting the proper items. I have a Home Depot in Guadalajara, about a 40-minute drive) and hope they have what I need, especially the rollers and high number sandpaper, if not, will have to order it. My cost will be well over the original $50 quote because everything imported into Mexico carries a high duty passed to the customer. But still, it's worth the try.

If I remember and can, I'll make an album and post it down the line.

I have one question now that I did not see answered (or I missed it). What type of container is used to dip the roller? I see the paint has about a ten-minute window of use so don't want to pour too much and have it try out. Suggestions from your experiences appreciated.

Thanks.

I started on a test piece last night, I found a body part for an old riding mower out in our scrap pile here at work. I sanded it with 100 then 220 then 320, wiped it down with a wet chamois and then mineral spirits, I mixed up some paint at about 40% mineral spirits and started rolling. I now think a test peice is a must before starting on your car because I had a gazillion little bubbles. But, like our wise leaders have said, a small puff on them and they all popped. I waited a few minutes and went over it again with no pressure on the roller as indicated in "the method" and it came out fairly smooth but looked awefully peely. I decided to leave it(it was 11:00pm) When I checked on it this morning I was amazed to see how much it levels out , except for some very light runs in one of the vertical sides it is actually very smooth. I posted a few pics of the prepped peice and the first coat wet over at flicker. I'll add more as I progress.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/90567084@N00/sets/72157600179335943/

rt13 and Talosian: I know it sure seems like a lot of work to read this whole 2 part thread, but I have found that the repititious info drilled the process into my head and except for actual hands on experience I felt very confident last night that I knew what I was doing. I had a very minor "what the &%$# am I doing moment" and that was it. I had the answers to all the problems I encountered because of this thread and all the guys who have gone before us(Thanks again to all of you). I highly recommend taking the time to read it through completely.

I hear you about spraying but my thinking right now is since I have the time, I will give the roller a try. For me, part of the project is the challenge. Also, I have many removable parts (all doors for one thing) that will allow me to lay them out.

I will be happy with what I think is called a 10-20 foot job, meaning up to that distance it looks pretty good. And remember, I'm in Mexico and if I have a kick-[Edited by Moparts - Keep it clean] show finish, I would be afraid to take the car out, not for theft, but damage. I had a truck back into my daily-driver (1993 Ford Escort Wagon) and took out a mirror and two windows. I simply kept going as is the custom here, but that's another story.

And also cost is a factor, if I can get a decent looking paint job for under US$500 including some body work, I'll be a happy camper. Plus, if it's a total disaster, I can then consider buying a cheap spray outfit and giving it a shot.

So now, I'll just muddle along and see how it goes.

Thanks for the input.

hey guys, how has rustoleum been holding up on bumpers.. like plastic/fiberglass bumpers?



ps, heres my progress so far... i havent rolled anything on yet but I did slightly thin some rustoleum primer and brush two coats on with a foam brush.. came out pretty good, ill wetsand and fill any messups tomorrow and by monday I should be laying color down.

http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/5500/p1010287ir0.jpg

Is the rustolem satin with the lawn chairs and stuff on the front of it the same as the normal rustolem. The chestnut brown and satin black both have different cans. I wondering if it is the same paint? thanks!

Is the Tremclad oil or water based? I see Rust-Oleum has a water base. I think Tremclad is a Canadaian product.

Thanks.

OK so I went back to Tractor Supply again and did some more checking while I was there to buy some other stuff, they have a gallon of sandable primer to go along with their tractor enamel, are you guys rolling the primer straight on or thinning it down with mineral spirits ? 10-20%?