or some sort of per mile charge on the distances covered by the rollers.

Hi, and greetings from jeepforum.com this post made its way over to us. Im going to apply the rusto technique to my 94 Jeep Wrangler in the next couple of weeks, I have some scratches and dints that will need to be banged out and the paint on my hood has just faded the PO did not take good care of her but im hoping to bring her back to a good ole shine! Just wanted to say my thanks to 69charger for sharing the 6000$ paint job secret that only costs 60$ the charger looks awesome! I'll post pics of my job after I get it completed and im going to spread the word of the rusto job.

Thanks 78D150! And THANK YOU Marq! Coming from one of the major contributors of the "Worldwide Fraternal Order of Paint Rollers" that means a lot to me! Speaking of worldwide, I'm amazed at how this thread has caught on around the world. Take a bow Charger! It would be great if one day we could all find a way to get together to compare notes and show off our work. If you guys ever consider San Diego, the fish tacos are on me...er...up to a $50 limit though

Did a hood in black, it looked ok, wet sanded, and then used a polisher and polish.

The paint is really cloudy (greyish), I feel like the polish is making it even more hazy. any ideas on how to eliminate haze?

Is this something that typically shows up?

do you stil have to thin that with sprits?? i just ordered my gallon too...

mybuick,

I haven't used it yet, still doing bodywork. In fact I'm still throwing around the idea of using the clear. All I can say is get a feel for the paint's consistency and check the label.

Well Guys I decided it wasn't very cool of me to be on here talking the talk but not having done anything to my car yet. So today I started on the body work. I got a few of the lighter dings filled and primed no problem but I worked on a couple of bigger dings and had a problem with oversanding, So I ended up with a partially filled dent. Can someone tell me the trick to knowing when its level and not over doing the sanding?
Also, for those who are interested I have finally decided that it is going to be painted Black. Marq, I gave a lot of thought to your Two-tone mockup but in the end I want to just use one color and use spray bombs for my jambs and under the hood. The beauty of this method is that I can always add the grey in the future if I get gung-ho again.
I also did and experiment reblacking one of my window trims that was peeling. I removed all the loose blacking with a razor blade and sanded it smooth with 80 grit then 320 and painted it with the Plasti-dip spray(rubberized coating) that someone mentioned here a few pages back. I've worked with this stuff before and the consistency of it is a lot like the backout film that was originally on those trims. Unfortunately, I am going to have to paint the car with these trims in place since they are installed under the windows and I'm not removing the windows to paint the car. Sorry for the long winded post, I have attached a pic with some of my Bondo work. If anyone wants to see that blacked out trim peice let me know and I'll put up a pic of that too.

I spoke to my boss who used to be a body man and he answered my sanding question, he said to load it up with primer and block sand it with 180 grit slowly and recoat with primer back and forth this way until I have a smooth finish. I'm gonna try this unless someone has a better idea.

I thought I would post more results-

I switched back to low odor spirits and painted it at about 10PM and the pain looks pretty good today. I have one or 2 small spots that may need to be wetsanded but i am going to try to polish the last layer without wetsanding the whole thing. I will know in a few days how it turns out. I pushed it out in the sun this morning to bake for a while and im guessing Thursday I will try buffing it.

I'll post pics after I buff it.

Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 1:08 am Post subject: Update

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Had a situation yesterday, that I think can attest for the toughness of the Rustoleum roller job I did a couple months ago...

A friend ad I were out at his deer lease clearing some more mesquite trees. We're winding out way slowly through the pasture and coming up is a group of trees that I have pre determined which route I'm gonna take through them, plan was to take this one particular low hanging branch a little wider. Well a few deer caught our attention, and naturaly I looked and watched em bound away into the brush... all of a sudden there's this horrible scraping, screeching noise filling the cab, I had drifted right up under that branch. My first thought is "holy [Edited by Moparts - Keep it clean]!!!, way to go meat-head!!"

I stop, we get out expecting to find it gouged down to bare metal. In case yall didn't know, mesquite is a very hard wood covered in equally hard 1,2, & 3" thorns.

I hopped into the bed to inspect the cab damage, neither one of use could find so much as a scratch... just few spindly leaves and twigs in the bed.

Try that with a CC job

Thanks to 1Bad68, I'm rockin a new SATIN black roller paint job.

Looks good!

CALLING ALL PEOPLE USING A REGULAR CRAPPY BUFFER!! LOL

im using a 6" craftsman random orbit 3600rpm buffer.. ive tried microfiber bonnets, wool, terry.. was having trouble gettin a shine, and tried a number of different polishes/cutting compounds.. i finally got some good results today, but it was after a combination of like 4 different products.. used the cheap turtle wax polishing compound, then meguiars diamond cut, then some cheap scratch/swirl remover, then wax.. and it came out pretty good... BUT for those of you using a pretty crappy buffer like me (not the baller PC7424 lol), what exactly are u using to get good results??

I'm using this

Harbor Freight Polisher

with 3m Finesse It polish and It works great. My process was 1000 grit, then 2000 then 3m with a foam pad and it comes out like a mirror (safety red paint). I will have to get pictures to post.

Harbor Freight had the polisher on sale for $39. The 3m compound is expensive but I have used it before and it is about the best stuff out there. Takes about a minute to do a 2x2 section to a mirror shine.

Great Job.

What paint, what method?

Rustoleum, Brightside, ...Venezuelan Beaver Cheese?


Enquiring minds want to know...

sanded my white primer with 220, then 400. Then rolled 2 coats of satin black rustoleum, thinned about 20% with low-odor mineral spirits. I experimented with Acetone (flashes too fast), and gloss black (doesnt get hard very fast).

The Satin has gotten VERY hard in just 2 days, and the roller marks are not very visible at all. If you have ever bought a Repo part, like a fender, the paint looks alot like that satin black primer that comes on repo parts.

The Satin covers very well, I actually think it looks better in person then in the photo. Saving my money for all new chrome. When I hit the lotto I'll get a shiny paint job.

Roll on!

Just remember, Venezualan Beaver Cheese needs to be thinned with 50% Pure Canuck Caribou Milk
Nice work with the Satin Black, looks good!