Contact Bob. He did mine and as stated, worth every penny!

It's not your money being spent nor your choice. Bob's customer service, his workmanship, careful detail, don't "beat around the bush" speaks volumes to many all over the place.

71rm23, beautiful big block, with a/c! I bet you love that radiator!

Some s on here must have Xcellent retirement plans ....loads of spare cash and tons of CDs to over spend by as much as 100% on a copper/brass resto unit ....

But the that say an aluminum piece is junk .... the OEM market and assembly line production totally disagrees with that

THIS kind of reminds me of some people who have “wood” for carbon fiber over fiberglass

But carry on ... your $$ are yours to spend as you see fit ....

Doc I think it may have more to do with quality than cost. The radiator in the 69 that dealt me fits had a brand new core in it. The engine temp would continue to climb at highway speeds after a fresh rebuild. I later found out it had always ran on the warm side.
The heads were pulled and checked a a second reputable shop and reinstalled with no change.
he motor was then pulled again and 3 frereze plugs were found inside the water jackets. AHA!!!!
Reinstall, no Chnage.
Pull motor again and send to second reputable shop. Minor issues but nothing of any consequence.
Reinstall, SOS.
Talk to Glen ray. Send him the radiator. It comes back, install it and temp never goes above 190 even on the hottest days and hasn't to my knowledge 5 years later.
All readings were being taken with a laboratory grade digital meter and thermocouples which are accurate to 1/10th of a degree. You wanted the story, You got it! BTW the above is the short version.
I have had a few other similar situations since then and in all cases the quality of the core being used was the root of the problem

TJ .... do the only diff was the QUALITY OF THE CORE ?

.... just much better heat transfer ?

I do appreciate good customer service. I just have had good luck with both aftermarket aluminum radiators and even original Mopar radiators that have been boiled out.
I may never get to the point where I need a specific numbered radiator like I see that Glen Ray advertises. I am happy that such a vendor exists, OEM correct cars do need to have factory correct appearing parts.

We do have great retirment plans, thanks to glenray we will only ever need 1 radiator, so that helps. As far as an oem using aluminum, yes they do in a car designed for it, not the same as a retrofit, they are wider, bigger, and designed for a hotter running car. All I can tell you is his radiators work and cool better every time. You would think any recore would be the same, but it has not been that way for me, the fact the radiator looks so nice is also a plus. When I look under the hood of a mopar and see a cheap radiator it is the first sign corners were cut everywhere on the car, and I am not alone.

Sure you are not alone. There are smart people and there are idiots. Everyone can find a consensus if they are surrounded by people of their own kind.
Some people will spend top dollar for everything in their restoration but it in no way guarantees that they will enjoy their car more than the guy that used non stock parts. Original parts were not always used because they were the best, they were chosen for a variety of reasons including durability, appearance and cost. Factory radios, seats, suspensions and brakes are far behind the quality of modern aftermarket components. These may be dismissed by the purists but look around, the majority of cars that I see are not built to win Gold at some big show on the East coast.
Good for you if you are happy with the $1200 radiator. You obviously aren't eating Top Ramen to be able to afford such luxuries. A steak at The Outback tastes as good to me as anything from a 5 star restaurant and I get just as full from the meal.

the original radiator that was in my charger held coolant and cooled several different engine combos over the years.
when i got the car in 1970, it was hit HARD in the rear, which caused the fan to "dance" a bit on the core.
it was repaired by a local shop during the time the car was being repaired, and although the "fan dance" marks are still on the core, plus a couple of the core tubes were repaired by pinching them off, that repair has lasted until i removed it a couple of months ago. it's only a 22", with the side rails for a shroud, however, the shroud was removed years and years ago and lost.
it now looks like old age has caught up with it, as the core looks like it they do when they are ready to start leaking.

i won't be re-coring this unit, although the tanks and side rails are almost perfect. instead, i am using a very large, cross flow aluminum radiator [28"x3 1/2" thick with two, 1 1/2" tubes] coupled with a dual electric fan unit from a 2014 charger 6.4 hemi.
of course modifications will be [and have already been] done, but i will never restore this car. it is only a rebuilt "total".
the point is, this aluminum radiator is right for this application [in my opinion], plus it was way cheaper than a restored original.
each type have their place, and both will work perfectly.
it just depends on the application.

Jjs72d, I don't think your steak comparison is a good one, sorry. What we have written repeatedly is that the other ones fail early, don't perform nearly as well, and don't fit well and are very frustrating and take time to install because of poor fit. We have written these are the last radiators we will have to install as well, and that we've had bad experiences with other aftermarket radiators. Maybe you've been lucky and haven't. You're in the minority. If I have to replace an aftermarket one, my time is money. Then the cost of replacements adds up and in the long run I'm better off with the more quality piece. I don't understand why this does not make sense. It's not just with radiators! This is a basic concept. Lucky you though for having one of these cheap POS aftermarket ones last you for a long time, perform well, and satisfy you in every way. My less than a year old one would start running very hot in traffic here in Florida, looked like crap, and caused me all kinds of aggravation just to install, and required a cable tie for one of the mounting holes that wouldn't line up. But somehow I'm still blowing my retirement for spending $750 on a high quality piece that I won't ever have to replace again on a truck I love and plan to keep forever.

When phrased in the manner of the last radiator that I'll have to buy, it makes more sense. I'm not old enough to have had a new aluminum one go bad. I've built a few cars to sell, I've worked with friends on their cars, all with either used or new aftermarket aluminum radiators and have not seen a failure. Maybe In 10 years I may have a different opinion.

My problem with the new plastic ones is that they look nothing like stock and when you're using them in something like an older mopar the tank is right in your face every time you pop the hood. Not to mention every one I've ever had has issues. Some don't fit right, some the drain is made in a way that it's impossible to get to. I've got one in a GM, at least on it they made the tank look pretty much like the stock one and when they run vertical instead of horizontal it's not noticeable but it's one of those with the crap drain.

Well nice to see you have an open mind, if you ever have a cooling problem glen ray is the place. Believe me I don't like the price, but the results are worth it.

Yes. the Core manufacturers like every other company are constantly trying to reduce costs. They do so by thinning the tube walls, fins, number of fins, thickness of fins, manufacturing techniques etc.
If we do X, it only affect the efficiency by 10% but saves us 5.00 a core. Multiply that by 100,000. Knowing that most systems are capable of handling that 10% loss no one is the wiser. Over a period of say 40 years the above idea is implemented 5 times. The thermal efficiency has now dropped by 50% from it's 1969 design. But now t's 2019 and the majority of the core manufacturers are not paying attention to 1960's radiator cores.
The local radiator shop which is becoming extinct, selects the new core on sizing primarily. The shop also is looking at the cost factor as most customers Aren't aware of the differences just the bottom line on the bill. Ahh this one per that catalog says it the same but is 100.00 or more cheaper. I can put that in my pocket or take it off the bill.
So when we have a big block being cooled by a 22" radiator that has a "NEW" core, it may not cool as efficiently as the original one did.
The cores may appear the same but the thermal efficiency is not and therein lies the root cause.

Very happy with the heater core rebuild they did for my Bird. Quality work all around.