I take it a step further and run STP oil treatment. Stuff sticks to all internal parts of the engine. Every one I have torn down has a sticky film all over everything. Hell of a lot cheaper than a prelube oiling system and good insurance for the cars that are not used every day in my opinion.

I take it a step further and run STP oil treatment. Stuff sticks to all internal parts of the engine. Every one I have torn down has a sticky film all over everything. Hell of a lot cheaper than a prelube oiling system and good insurance for the cars that are not used every day in my opinion.
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I remember hearing adds on TV in 1952 up to 1956 for the new miracle engine oil additive from Germany, STP
I started working in service station, not todays gas only stations, in 1961, I started building my own motors shortly after that and started taking customers motor work in around 1974.
I know customers who used and swore by STP, all the STP motors I tore down for inspection had grey gunk deposits in every little low spot in th elifter valleys, I owned a hot tank and the hot tank solution wouldn't touch those deposits after soaking them for several days I had to scrape it out with a screw driver or something narrow enough to get in those small recesses
I'm not sure if the STP formula has changed over the years, especially when Andy Granatelli (SP?) owned the company in the early 1960s.
I don't use it now, haven't in over twenty years due to todays oils are way better than they where in 1950s
Pennzoil use to be crap until Shell oil bought them, they started adding something to the race oil tin the early 2000s hat sticks on anything like crazy, so has Valvoline

Do not have the Dyno sheets, long gone. 3 military moves and 2 house moves since then. This was when 513's were not common and Fram filters were GREAT. It was an imploded Fram filter that killed that 513. I don't play with big blocks any more.

I am going by memory. All dyno runs were at 180 degrees F water temp. I think with the 20W50 and HV pump it was north of 100PSI at 2500-3000 RPM and 80 PSI with the stock oil pump. With the 5W30 HV pump I think it was like 60 PSI and 50 PSI with standard pump. We did not play with the bypass spring at that time. We did grind it down some later to get closer to the 10 PSI per 1000 RPM.

Over the years I have always blueprinted and ported all oil pumps. Most oil pumps have too tight rotors, small passages and lots of bugers in the ports.

Guys Thanks for sharing what you found on the dyno!


Thank you both for sharing!
The termperature relationship makes sense.

Viscosity for a straight 30 at
130 F is around 45 cSt
175 F is around 20 cSt
8 Hp

For a 10W-30
130 F is around 35 cSt
160 F is around 25 cSt
5 Hp

I don;'t have info from straight 20 plotted.
But to your findings on that engine it seems that viscosity above 20 or 25 cSt was costing power.



@ 180 F
20W-50 has viscosity around 34 cSt
_5W-30 has viscosity around 18 cSt.
15 Hp

One of the first tests I did on straight 20Wt Valvoline non synthetic which showed that oil made the same power at 80 F oil temps as it did at 220 F
That was on a pump gas iron headed motor that barely made 500 HP and it took a long time to get the oil temps up to 220F running it at 2500 RPM with small dyno load on it. We had to turned the fans off to the dyno room, both inlet and outlets to get the oil that hot I would shoot for between 160 F and 180 F water temps on the dyno pulls.
I was concentrating on making the same power as much as possible for bracket cars back then
IHTHS

IIRC .. An older article in National Dragster about oiling systems written by WJ .... he was using 0 weight oil with a max pressure of 60 psi.. !

GOOD to see here that the usage of smilies HERE ... is not TOO HIGH too !