Anyone use the MP M1 4500 RB intake like the one pictured?

If so, can you describe the combination, including whether you ran it w/ a Dominator or a 4150 w/ an adapter (such as Andy used to sell, also pictured)?

Thanks - Brad

Brad..I ran a MW one for a bit before going with an Indy 440-3X...I picked up a bit with the Indy. The MP wasn't a bad piece.

The version I'm asking about is (was) available only as a standard-port version. I suspect it wouldn't be any better than the Trick Flow 4150 intake I have now, but figured I'd ask. It's definitely lower, a least w/o any spacer or adapter used.

I know if you put a butt-load of $ into one w/ Wilson that it can work pretty well, but then it's no longer an apples-to-apples comparison.

My expectation would be, if used with a 4150 adapter/carb....... on a motor combo like yours, that it would not be as good as the TF.
I’m not very confident it would be better than a good 4150 carb on the TF manifold, even if the M1 was run with a good working 4500 carb.

Of course....... there’s really only one way to “know”.

The 4150/4500 bolt patterns are different, so in order for a 4150 carb to be used with a 4500 manifold, without relocating the bolt holes, requires the use of a 4150 carb that has the slotted mounting holes.

I think your confidence level is about on par w/ mine. The one thing IMO the M1 offers is a chance to try more/different spacer combinations (since it's quite a bit lower than a TF or Victor 4150) ... or a 4500 carb, I suppose. I already know the M1 4150 isn't in the same league as the Trick Flow at this HP level; my Frankenstein M1 4150 intake is just a big aluminum & Belzona doorstop now.

My two largest carbs (the Haak/Holley/AED 1.58v annular and the "Brad's Swell" 1.50v downleg) both have the dual-pattern base plates, should the opportunity to test one come up.

As far as buying one "just to know"... pretty low on the priority list right now. I know where a couple of new ones are still showing as being in one vendor's inventory, but I'm not convinced it's worth sinking the $ into to sit on the shelf until I get around to testing it along w/ all the other things I'll need to sort out.

It would still be interesting to hear of other people's experience w/ it.

If you’re planning on using the TF in the car...... and you’re getting comparisons between the M1-4500 and something other than the TF manifold....... I’m not sure there’s much value in that info and how it applies to your combo.

Frankly, I don’t feel the mismatched opening between the plenum & carb is the “hot ticket” at all.
Just seems like it would slow down the air stream as it exits the carb.

Again, just speculation without testing it.

I can tell you this, I have tried the “upside down funnel” 4500/4150 adapter on several motors through the years.
It’s always been a loser in my tests.

Brad,
The bargain priced 496 CID RB I put in my Daytona has the M1 dominator pattern intake. Just how it came, not my pick of parts.
On the dyno, it made the best with a 1" tapered 4-hole spacer along with an additional 0.5" open spacer (open on intake side, 4-hole on carb side).
The tapered spacer really works well, the added open spacer helped the fuel curve and widened the power peak.

RPM--Torque--HP--- jets ---
5700 519.5 563.8 95/95, 12.8 oxy sensor, only 4-hole tapered spacer
5600 528.1 563.1 97/97, 11.7 oxy sensor, only 4-hole tapered spacer
5800 515.5 569.3 97/97, 12.5 oxy sensor, 1/2 open spacer and 4-hole. Flatter A/F curve

10.3 CR iron heads
268/274 at 0.050" solid roller cam, 108 LSA (big...)
step headers 2" to 2-1/8"

Jimbo - What carb is on your DayTuna?

I am using my very old 1150 carb that was reworked by AED for screw in airbleeds and flow tested/tuned. Last time I used it was 2007.
It works very well, and the dyno shop was amazed how close it was to their dyno carb (571 HP), which always beat customer carbs.

Bleep it! I can't be everyone's "Free R&D guy"!

Too much thinking; not enough doing.

I ran one years ago then changed to the Victor/adapter deal and was faster......sold the M1 at a race for $100...........

If you're trying to make a bunch of power on a low deck with standard port heads and a 4500 carb then that is probably the best intake to use. On an RB, the Edelbrock Super Victor would be better than the M1 4500 but of course, the Super Victor is much taller. The M1 4500 works great considering the low profile but I think it only works great with a 4500 carb. It will work okay with the adapter but I think a Trick Flow intake would be slightly better.

What I found on my 470 engine was that I needed to use a 4500 carb if I wanted to make big power. Even the biggest bore 4150 carbs that I tested wouldn't make as much power as a small 4500 carb. Of course, that was dyno testing not drag racing so your results might vary.

Sounds like a "Don't bother". Thanks for the replies.

Be interesting to try one of these for that test:

Ummmm... how tall? Looks "up there" to me.

FWIW, even with the tall scoop and the drop-base air cleaner, my preliminary estimates are that I'm going to be limited to maybe a 1/2" spacer on the Trick Flow intake... unless I go filter-less at the track.

That QF spacer is 3/4” according to the website.

QFT 300-4145-1AL

That spacer is very similar to the 1" that I have.
The dyno shop supplied a few spacers and carb studs to try, and sold me the parts I ended up using.
Their experience is that it tends to help most single Dominator intakes.
It is phenolic instead of aluminum.

I think someone forgot to put 1- in front of 3/4"; can't imagine what's pictured there being less than 1".

If you are planning to stay with a 4150 carb then I wouldn't bother with picking up a M1 4500 for testing. If a Trick Flow intake will fit then that will be your best bet. Porting the intake is important if you're trying to grab all the power off the table. The Hughes Engines deep port match is a good start. Wilson does the best job if you have room in the budget.

I still think you should sell all the carbs and put a Sniper XFlow on there. Unfortunately with the magazine business shut down I don't think I'll be able to source any parts for the conversion. Everything has been turned off for now.

Understood, and thanks, again, for the info.