Here is 15 idle, 42 cruise and 34 WOT smoothed about 3 times. Still pings but runs a LOT better. 1st pic is graph and 2nd is numbers. Then I found a sample stock cam in the Holley sniper files and went to simple mode and put in our base numbers same as above. It recalculated and made the 3rd pic chart and 4th sheet numbers. I have not run it with that as I hate to experiment with a new engine. Just WAGing. Also seems to be sensitive to set IAC at 5 to 15????? After idle a while it goes to 0... Thanks for advice Phish

The bottom ignition timing looks like it is for a boosted engine. The timing drops off at the top of the page which is probably for boost. Look at the kPa number and see what it is. Anything over 100 kPa is boost.

Adjust the throttle position (idle speed screw) at idle with the engine warm. At least 140 or 150 degrees on the coolant sensor. You adjust the throttle position until the IAC is around 10. If this is an auto do it in park. If you set it warm and it still gradually goes to zero then you have some sort of vacuum leak somewhere in the system.

Make sure that you have verified that the timing on the computer matches the timing at the dampener with a timing light.

Yes that is a very good point. Check it at idle as well as at a higher speed. There is also a static timing setting on the Sniper which is useful. You can just touch the button on the menu and then type in the timing that you want the Sniper to hold at while you check it.

OK Sniper 1 Phish 0. Took it for a drive after smoothing the file a couple more clicks. After it warms, we have IAC at 10 and it is holding now. I notice after driving and letting off gas to coast it goes to IAC 0. That ok?

BUT I decided to check the kickdown, went WOT cruising in high, it downshifted, pulled nicely with small pings and the TPS went red at 96 and stayed red at 86 while we continued to drive, not WOT etc. Pulled into a lot to cycle everything, no luck. Key on and off stuck red flag at 86 and it would not start. No tools (stupid me), not even to disconnect battery to see if it would reset. Did unhook TPS wire which showed 0 but plugged back in, red 86 stuck. Caught a ride home, got a truck and trailer and winched it on and back home. Unload and turn the key on, WALLA everything works. I also notice my alternator voltage is in yellow a lot. I have a new one as well as an 85 amp cop setup. Would voltage be the problem. Obviously I need this to be reliable on a two week race. Anybody have similar problem? Thanks

I've never seen the TPS stick not sure what is causing that. Guess you'll need to figure out if it is mechanically sticking open or if it is an electrical failure. My hunch would be electrical failure but could be either. You can replace the TPS but you would need to order one or call Holley and ask for a warranty replacement.

Voltage needs to be in the normal range for the Sniper to work so you'll need to figure that out for sure.

Did you run some data logs while you were taking the test drive? You should always data log your test drives so you can play them back and see what happened. Data logging is the basis for problem solving with a Sniper so if you aren't using the data logger then you're taking the hard road.

Data log? Have not learned that yet. Still waiting on my wire which should be here. Any experts on tuning within days drive of SW Louisiana? Thanks

Houston, we have a datalog. I did the 1st one on the small handheld. Rolling along about 20 and kicked it down with WOT. See pic...timing is green and red is rpm. The 2 slight rpm bumps are due to the lack of a baffle in my prototype tank when its low. Will address that later. A new alternator seemed to help solve yesterdays issues with no more yellow flashes. I still get a red box on TPS at 93 but I found that is how it is set in the wizard. Also found a knowledgeable shop/dyno etc about an hour away. Also note it auto shifted to 2nd at 4000ish. That's leaving some on the table for sure. Still pinging under load. Stephen

Put gas in it and no more cavitation. Made another run rolling in low and then WOT. Timing jumps to 26, falls to 22 then ramp to 34. Pinging bad the whole way. Any suggestions to continue breakin. I guess pull timing out and make another chart. Why the timing raise and drop at the hit? TPS 95 at WOT maybe that's why it shifts at 4000.Thanks

Discovered I was using "boxy" config file. Used the smooth one, still stair stepped but way better. Off to the tuner. Thanks guys. Phish

Okay, you're making progress. You can check the boxes on the left to look at other parameters on your data log. I'd suggest turning them on one by one to see what it looks like and then turn them off if you don't want to look at it.

The timing table needs to be nice and smooth so that is the first thing to do. I'm not sure on the pinging, that could be a bunch of factors including engine design and the type of gas you are running. First step is to put some premium in the tank, next step would be to try some high octane unleaded. Then try less timing or slow down the advance curve. There are a lot of variables to play with.

Have you verified that your timing is correct? You need to double check (or triple check) the timing at the damper with a timing light. The timing light needs to give you the same timing as what the handheld says. If the engine timing is different than what the Holley thinks the timing is then you'll have a big problem on your hands. It has to be verified.

Will do timing double check in am. Thanks again

Mr. A and Mr. T, you get cigars!!! My help thought sync of the dizzy was using plastic mold and marking number 1. He was within 8 degrees. Sniper at 15, balancer at 23. Moved the dizzy and checked again at 2000 and 3000 rpm. Bang on!! Now it does not ping and actually we could rally with it as is. Still going to have an EFI tuner check it. Also the new alternator engages the house battery (for smoke machine when we throw a rod LOL) and no longer have Sniper voltage flags. Guess I am a Sniper expert............Now to build a baffle in a new tank. Thanks Stephen

Yes, the plastic tool usually gets you close enough to start the engine but you always need to verify with a timing light before beating on it.