I'll be diving in to my first front end rebuild this winter, just want to think out loud and ask a few questions.
Coronet, driver, cruiser, 318, likely swap a big block someday. I already have a Hotchkiss front sway bar (probably 1 3/8", not yet installed), I will likely get a Hotchiss rear sway to match.
Likely will go with Hotchkiss 1.1" torsion bars. My LCA's don't have tabs, so I will also order their tab kit to weld in.
Is there any chance this rig will be too stiff with just the smallblock weight?
PST has an LCA stiffening kit, worth it? Seems I might as well...
Adjustable strut rods: Am I really going to notice anything there?
Steering box is already in, Firm Feel.
Thanks for any input!
A small rear sway bar on a B-body would probably be OK - at least for street speeds - when used with the front sway bar and larger t-bars you've mentioned.
I would try it without first and see how you liked it.
Definately go with tabs from the same people you bought the sway bar from.
It will not be too stiff. Use either regular parts store shocks or really decent shocks like bilstiens or whatever Hotchkis is selling. NO KYBs.
LCA stiffening. For what you're doing, IMO its a waste. If you really want to weld a plate a cross the bottom - go ahead, it won't hurt other than a little weight.
Adjustable strut rods. No, They were an answer to poly strut bushings that were the wrong thickness. Now people use (and mis-use) them for other reasons.
Replacing worn parts, adding the front sway bar, and slightly bigger t-bars and you've done a lot.
Set ride hieght per shop manual, or a drop lower. Then align in the proper sequence. Camber, Caster, toe. Use the most negative camber in the specs, the most positive caster, and the factory toe.
(The rt to left difference isn't needed as much with the virtual disappearance of high crowned roadways.) See how you like it and make adjustments from there.
Assuming here you will be using crusing type tires, not some super sticky ultra performance summer only shoes.