So I put an SRT 392 short block with the SRT 392 cam and eagle top end into my 2011 ram 1500, it all bolts up and works perfect until the second time I drive it, the code for slow response (p0016 I think) for the VVT comes up shortly after begenning the second trip, normaly when we get a car or truck with this code I can cure this with an oil change to the correct weight oil, I used 20-50 for assembly lube and 5-30 to fill it after that so I knew it was a possibility I would get this code but figured I would change it after break in, witch I did do 5-20 oil, still getting the code the second time I drive it after clearing the codes (this is the only code I am getting) so I thought maybe it was still too thick so I changed it again to 0-20 synthetic the next time butt I am still getting the code. I would not worry about it as everything looks perfect in the data stream and the truck runs awesome except when the code comes up it goes into limp mode (won't go over about 2500 RPM, no 5th gear and no cruise control). Should I get a higher volume oil pimp? I used a 5.7 pump I had here that was new, perhaps I need a 6.4 pump? This motor has the piston oil squirters also. I am planning to get it tuned for the new motor, can they just make it less sensitive when they tune it?

Not sure what I can offer but if you have a HP Tuners you can log cam angle commanded vs actual.
If you have set the cam timing wrong you will see it here.
It should not care currently that a 5.7 PCM is running it.

The oil pump is a valid point but I think it would only rear it's head as the weak link once the engine is pushed into the upper RPM and the ability of the phaser to overcome the spring pressure will show up.

What did the front cam bearing look like?

Have you tried another OCV for the VVT?

The actual and desired look pretty dang close on my scanner (maxysys).

I might try another valve, the intake is easy to pull out the way and I got a mess of em sitting around.

I may try going to a thicker oil at the next change, maybe I am thinking of this all wrong, sometimes doing something against logic is actually what needs to be done. It does go just a little longer when cold (I can get a mile from the house most mornings) before setting the code than when it's hot (pretty much instant after starting).

It gets old clearing the codes every time I drive it, I looked in the pending codes and it is in there on the first trip, second trip is always when it goes into limp mode and turns on the light and I want it all working right before I get it tuned.

You really wanna record it with HPT so you can watch it back to see how it follows

I can and have recorded it on my maxisys, I do not have an HPT. I finnally pulled the cam and crank sensors and lined up the missing tooth in the crank hole and looked at the cam tone wheel, it is a few degrees off from 2 other VVT engines I have in the shop so apparently the phaser is not returning to it's proper at rest position, it don't look like it is enough off to be a tooth off. I will pull the cover off in the next couple days and see what is going on in there.

My Daughters 2010 Durango was throwing the same code, some times in "rest position it would be a few degrees off , others it was clearly off..... we chased it for a month, the clock spring in the phaser broke.

one thing to keep in mind, the 5.7 VVT ,map has 9* degrees less retard then the 392 map., not sure if that would cause the release to open less and leave some oil in the chambers that would keep the phaser from returning to 0*........but I would think that once the engine is off the phaser would bleed out the excesses oil and return on it's own.


Dave I know HPTuners is a bit on the expensive side, and it most likely will not fix this issue for you, but the ability to play with the VVT system....is worth it, my 09 Ram , stock 5.7 long block and the 392 cam, WOW what a Different animal it is with just a simple trans tune, and then the night and day difference the VVT tuning has made. seriously hit their forum a lot of good threads on how the VVT can be played with.

I looked at their forum and regular website and all that stuff is complete nother alien language to me, I have no earthly idea where to begin on there and what to buy... I know mechanical stuff really well butt confuser programming is a whole nuther thing. My goal is to get everything running properly and fixed then have someone that knows what they are doing to actually tune it for me. I can turn a distributor to set timing and re-curve one to change the max advance, vacuum advance, rate of advance, change jets to get more or less fuel... and all that makes sense butt circuit logic, .HPT files, VCM suites... I am so lost.

I have put plenty of SRT cams in other 5.7s with no tuning and no issue, only more HP and other 392s in 5.7 rigs but never run across this issue, I am betting something is sticking in the phaser.

I was on the phone earlier with Ric, he says there is a spring loaded lock pin in the phaser , that keeps it from going the full retard at low RPMs, he was wonder if some how it got stuck, dis the truck feel sluggish over 2500 before it threw the code and went in to limp mode ?



It's taking me a while to get my head around the tuning aspect of these Modern engines.

little bit of a tangent, apologies. Quick search on my part indicates this HPtuner thing along with some DIY sensor overrides allow you to run boost and have all this control over the OEM computer, correct? But does HPtuners allow you to 'gut' the OEM computer to run without all the inputs such as ABS in a 60's retrofit? As in you could run OEM computers + hptuner and not need a gold box? Can the gold box control VVT in the same fashion?

It feels like a stock 5.7 under 3000 RPM then turns into beast mode over that, the highest I have had it is 5000 RPM and its pulling like an animal, pretty much what I expected with more cubes, bigger cam and compression. I pulled out on the highway with a new ford 6.7 diesel in front of me rolling coal on me, I gave it about 3/4 throttle and left him in a cloud of his own smoke so fast it was pretty funny.

It was my fault, chain was off a tooth in spite of me double checking it about 6 times, the last time I checked it I actually pulled the cover back off on the stand because I doubted my self. I can't finger out a way it could have jumped so it must have been my fault somehow.

Perhaps the phaser was hung up during assemble.

I really wish this site had a Like button.