Constant switched 12V C Body
#2731508
01/09/20 06:04 PM
01/09/20 06:04 PM
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 753 Louisiana
Spyphish
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OK Back on the Holley Sniper install on 1974 440 Monaco police car after the WHO DAT collapse. Went full boat with Sniper, Hyperspark box, Hyperspark Dizzy, coil etc to head off any mating problems. Holley wants a clean 12volt "switched" with key source. I have a wiring diagram off the net and tried the fuse panel. Every circuit that shows no voltage with key off, shows 12 with key on. BUT when you go to starter cycle, voltage dives. So on to the engine room, blue wire to ballast block has 12v with key on but dives as well on start cycle. Brown on the other side of ballast shows none with key on and 12 on starter cycle. So do I tie them together? Wont there be a "speed of light" interrupt when I release the key after start? Any Sniper folks here? I don't want to fry anything as it is all new and aint cheap. Instruction say don't use starter circuit?????Phish
C body, made my on in tank mod for pump etc. Thanks
Last edited by Spyphish; 01/09/20 06:05 PM.
CALMED THE QUAKE!!!(AGAIN!)
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Re: Constant switched 12V C Body
[Re: Sniper]
#2731512
01/09/20 06:19 PM
01/09/20 06:19 PM
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 753 Louisiana
Spyphish
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DUH!!!!! Thanks, why didn't I think of that? My claim to fame, I know what I don't know. Love this board. Happy New Year Phish
CALMED THE QUAKE!!!(AGAIN!)
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Re: Constant switched 12V C Body
[Re: Sniper]
#2731550
01/09/20 07:36 PM
01/09/20 07:36 PM
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Spyphish
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Do I grab 12v at the starter relay on firewall near brake booster (which has a fusible link) or just come direct from battery with an inline fuse. Or is a fuse required? Now to figure out the diagram of a relay. Thanks
CALMED THE QUAKE!!!(AGAIN!)
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Re: Constant switched 12V C Body
[Re: Spyphish]
#2731555
01/09/20 07:46 PM
01/09/20 07:46 PM
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Joined: May 2019
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Do I grab 12v at the starter relay on firewall near brake booster (which has a fusible link) or just come direct from battery with an inline fuse. Or is a fuse required? Now to figure out the diagram of a relay. Thanks Where the following link shows "switch in dash" substitute switched 12v https://itstillruns.com/wire-automotive-relay-4912752.htmlYou can tie in to the starter relay connection that is probably a cleaner setup, always use a fuse, fusible link or circuit breaker.
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Re: Constant switched 12V C Body
[Re: Twostick]
#2731678
01/10/20 10:47 AM
01/10/20 10:47 AM
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Re: Constant switched 12V C Body
[Re: Twostick]
#2731679
01/10/20 10:48 AM
01/10/20 10:48 AM
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Spyphish
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Not home free yet. I followed the link you sent and have a new relay out of the box. 87 goes to firewall strap ground and test with meter. 85 straight to battery using a temp jumper and test with meter. For 30 spade I just plugged in electric choke blue circuit connector which is switched and checks with meter. 86 (future sniper) just goes to meter for now. It shows 12 with the key off ???????? Which means sniper would be hot all the time. Start cycle voltage drops to 9v. I will try blue/brown ballast circuits tied together to remedy that. BUT why is 30 spade hot with the key off? I am doing something wrong. Thanks Phish (Stephen 337-499-4435) heading back out to shop.
Last edited by Spyphish; 01/10/20 10:49 AM.
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Re: Constant switched 12V C Body
[Re: Spyphish]
#2731697
01/10/20 11:19 AM
01/10/20 11:19 AM
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OK that sketch does not work in South Louisiana. Boyd came by and straighten things up. 85 = ground; 30 battery; 86 switched (will need to tie brown and blue wires) and finally 87 to new sniper. Key off, no power, key on 12volt, starter spun voltage still dives but I haven't spiced those yet. Thanks again.....
CALMED THE QUAKE!!!(AGAIN!)
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Re: Constant switched 12V C Body
[Re: Spyphish]
#2731758
01/10/20 01:51 PM
01/10/20 01:51 PM
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Using the electric choke circuit on the relay voltage drops to 0 when cranking engine. I joined the blue wire coming into the ballast with the brown wire going out of the ballast and installed on relay. I get full 12v with key on and voltage drops to 7.5V gradually while cranking. Does not go to 0 at all. Is that as good as it gets? Will the sniper start with that "switched" circuit fluctuating 12 to 7ish? I have not wired anything but a tester so far. Thanks Stephen
CALMED THE QUAKE!!!(AGAIN!)
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Re: Constant switched 12V C Body
[Re: Spyphish]
#2731833
01/10/20 03:49 PM
01/10/20 03:49 PM
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With a hot battery (car has been parked) the voltage drop is negligible running the starter. Waiting on aircraft RTV for the tank sealing which gets here Monday. Should see if it runs then. Will get back here for timing settings. Thanks
CALMED THE QUAKE!!!(AGAIN!)
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Re: Constant switched 12V C Body
[Re: Spyphish]
#2731925
01/10/20 07:23 PM
01/10/20 07:23 PM
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Why all the headaches, just add a diode, easy. You’re making this way harder than it needs to be.
Last edited by BDW; 01/10/20 07:25 PM.
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Re: Constant switched 12V C Body
[Re: TJP]
#2731954
01/10/20 08:31 PM
01/10/20 08:31 PM
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Spyphish
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Part number? I hate headaches
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Re: Constant switched 12V C Body
[Re: Sniper]
#2732062
01/11/20 09:23 AM
01/11/20 09:23 AM
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Spyphish
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I read around 10v to start Sniper. You have to spin it about 3 seconds to get to 10 and that is with an old battery. I have an extra mini starter combined with a fresh battery, she should light up. I did the relay on the firewall and used the stock blue electric choke spade on the relay. Spiced the brown coil wire to the blue along the valve cover looms so this car can go back stock with no problem. If I can find fuel resistant RTV locally, try to start and break in new bullet today.
Initial timing at 15 and WOT 38 for a stock 30 over 440. 10.5 to 1 ????? Thanks
CALMED THE QUAKE!!!(AGAIN!)
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