Did you do any back to back testing with the dimpling; if so, what did you find?

I didn’t. I doubt there’s anything in it. But I figured what the hell.

Bill

I recall when the OEM's went roller the commonly quoted number was 15 to 20 hp gain.

Those numbers are feasible for mass production but, for the $800 to $1000 investment to convert, I've always thought more power could be found else where and still be F.A.S.T. legal.

For $1000 and just going off your signature, I'd ditch the 14's and go with 15's to increase your contact patch and you might still have money left over for fiberglass fenders.

15" rims are not legal with a 383 build. Only available with Hemi in 68. Fiberglass is definitely not legal.
I have maybe 100 lbs left that I can pull off the car, and a better ignition system wouldn't hurt, but generally I think I have a good package.

Bill

Are you allowed to use the MSD Grid ignition? If so, you could probably gain some ET by slewing the timing and rpm to help get it going with skinny polyglass tires.

Yes there are a number of cars running a grid. At the moment my setup doesn't have the torque where I can't drive it off the line. My 60's are in the mid 1.7's which is pretty competitive.
It may be something I could look into for the future, but I'm more driver than tuner and like to keep my junk simple. I also want to win tho, so. ?

Bill

Time to stroke that puppy with a 4.25 stroke crankshaft Take timing out on the starting line to improve your 60 ft. times ( with a grid system) and reaction times and then add it back in to make power

I prefer the 4.25 over the 4.15 as well.

While you are at it break out the money bucket and do an LS firing order. I'm still having sticker shock over that one!

If it’s not a commonly available core, it has to be made out of a piece of bar stock as a one-off.

Benefits (other than a lighter wallet)?

Imo, in that combo........without testing it back to back........ I’m not sure it would be worth anything.

For sure........ it would be way way down the list of things I would prioritize money being spent on for that application....... unless I could see decent test data where it was worth enough power to justify the expense.

“The test”........ to see just how bad the intake manifold is hurting the power is to try a Performer RPM against the modded stock piece.
I think it would show you where one might need to concentrate the time and $$$.

Of course, if the difference was only 10-15hp........ then I’d be more willing to spend the resources somewhere else.

On my lowly 383 with stock heads, the RPM was about 25hp over a stock 301 intake.
I’m thinking on a 499/511 with ported heads, the difference could be more.

Tested on consecutive days, two very similar stroker combos running the same ex manifolds....... one with a ported 301, the other with a 6bbl..... the difference was over 60hp.

A little before and after of my current project intake.
Untitled by cudadude2, on Flickr


Untitled by cudadude2, on Flickr

Bill

It will sound like a SB Ford!

(I tested firing orders on my race engine and never saw any difference. My take on the subject is that firing order might matter for NASCAR, F1 and Indy cars. Not sure it matters to anyone else.)

Bill, how were what I assume are flow numbers taken on the orange intake?

I don’t know. Pic from the Internet.

Did you sub-contract this one out or, are you doing to work on this one too?

I'm doing it all myself.

Bill

I thought a big plus was that it made the crank happier?

I've heard that also, I haven't built a motor with that option yet either yet so
I have laid out all the firing orders possible with stock Mopar V8 crankshafts and I couldn't find one that didn't end up having two cylinders side by side firing order more than 90 degrees apart by changing the cam shaft lobes
Ford and Pontiac V8 motors don't use the same crankshaft rod throw arrangements like Mopar and Chevy do