Do any of you run ohio crank rods and it so what do you think and how many runs do you put on a set of rod before changing them out. Thanks .

used them several times but fortunately(depending on how you look at it) have never changed them out.

You better look at RPM and power first.. I dont run them so I dont know... I've been running Eagle H-beam for a lot
of years now

I ran a set of Ohio Crankshaft H beam rods in my last engine. They lasted just fine until the crankshaft broke, then everything got wasted. Engine tried to throw the 3rd rod journal (# 5 & #6 rods) out of the side of the block, but was unsuccessful because the rod & piston were still attached. Bent bad, but still attached.
The biggest issues that I had with their rods was the piston pin bushing was not sized (honed) anywhere near the pin size. AND, I ordered them with the ARP 2000 rod bolts as an upgrade, and it looked like they just swapped out the bolts. The big end was not round unless you backed off the bolt torque to what a ARP 8740 bolt is torqued to, then it was round again.
Bottom line, I had to spend more to fix the issues with both ends than I saved from buying a better quality rod. Other than that, were good rods, with no other problems.

Brian Dunnigan

Dude, what RPM and power level are you asking about

I ran a set of Ohio Crankshaft H beam rods in my last engine. They lasted just fine until the crankshaft broke, then everything got wasted. Engine tried to throw the 3rd rod journal (# 5 & #6 rods) out of the side of the block, but was unsuccessful because the rod & piston were still attached. Bent bad, but still attached.

Whose crankshaft was that, any idea why it broke?

I ran Ohio crank H beam 4340 rods in a motor. Broke the motor but it was an oiling problem. Windowed both sides of the block. Some of the rods were wadded up like lead. Wish I had taken some pictures of them. I've worked with alloyed metals all my life and have never seen 4340 that maliable. The alloy may have been correct but I am sure the heat treatment wasn't done properly. With just about any alloy the heat treat is the main process in the strength and endurance. My personal feelings on Ohio rods. I wouldn't run them in even a mild street motor.

It was the last factory stock forged crankshaft that I will run in a race engine. If anyone thinks that a $700 after market crank is too expensive, just wait til it breaks.$$$$$$, (like 8000 of them), not to mention half of a race season (and I was leading the points when this happened)
My point is to the op, the Ohio Crankshaft rods held up well for several seasons with no issues, other than the initial fitment added cost. The failure that I had was in NO WAY due to the rods, it rest solely on the cheap a$$ engine builder (me). Lesson learned.

Brian