I ordered my brightside tonight and will probably start painting over christmas break. I'll be painting my 69 chevy truck red.

I found some on ebay

Hello Ive got a Land Rover Defender (sorry I know its not a mopar) but think this is the best way to paint it, a few questions if I may:
1) Brightside vs Tremclad: Which one is better, personally Im leaning towards Brightside.
2) Anyone know where I can get either in Spain or what I should look for on the tin.

That's where I ordered mine from, were you happy with them?

Thanks through your link I found many more colours on ebay even the black im after, I also found it locally where I live through the interlux website. I guess they have dealers all over the world.

My only question now is whats better tremclad or brightside?

Hello all. Been here a while reading this thread and just wanted to say thanks to all the folks that have posted on here for all the information. I currently have a '92 eagle talon that I'm hoping to start painting on here soon. Just have a couple of questions for ya'll. I plan on using the brightside paint to do mine with. But I plan on doing a two tone paint job with mine. Red on the lower half and black on top. What would be the best route to go with on doing this? First paint one color, then the other? Or do both of them at the same time? Thanks for the time and all the info on here, folks. I'm also posting a pic of the above stated car.

Just an observation I got lazy and stopped doing the tipping trick, bad mistake had to do a lot more sanding before doing the second coat, the bubbles looked like fish scales the ones that finally popped next time I'll slow down and do the double roller trick

Hey guys, I am posting here for my first time, and the first thing I had to say was ALL HAIL 69!

For real man, if this works, you will need to come down here to Washington for some pizza and root beer. (Im 16, so a trip to the bar isn't legal)

Any way, I got a 1972 Datsun 620 pickup that my parents got me for a first car. I want to poke the previous owner in the eye with an EXTREMELY hot French fry. This guy just rattle canned over rust spots AND MUD. Thats right, he didn't even wash the truck first.

Alot of body work awaits me on this project, cuzz the old bondo is starting to crack and fall out. I get to re-bondo, fix rust holes, and then paint it all on my first project. Ya, I got my work cut out for me.

Like I mentioned, the truck has serious rust issues. I am not sure weather to Rustolium the entire thing, like Charger did, or to Brightside it. The most important thing is that I don't want the rust to seep through the paint again.

The truck is on the third color. It started its life as a baby crap yellow on some parts, and it seems to have had baby poo green pieces frankensteined on. After that they painted red with a gray primer, and it looks like they did a good job. I assume the person that painted it red also did the body work. Judging by the state of the bondo, I think that was prolly a good 15 years ago.

Since then the truck has been passed around from one 16 year old to another. The last owner went and painted it primer gray, but they did such a bad job I'm going to have to take all that off. I figure I will be taking the truck back to its stock colors.

This is really all just for practice, I want to learn on a car I dont care about messing up too badly (the truck cant LOOSE any value) before I buy a camaro and try this same method on it.

I have body work to learn, and a painting method to try, the big question on my mind:

Does brightside protect against RUST?


Oh ya, Im all the way to page 44 of this thread, I will finish the read tomorrow.

RIGBENDER- I did one of my cars two-tone, some may disagree, but my opinion is as long as the two colors are seperated by trim of some kind, I'd do both at the same time. Would suggest painting the top color first though, if you drip any on the lower section while bringing your roller up (and it's likely you will), it's easier to wipe off with mineral spirits as opposed to dripping on the freshly painted lower.

QUESTION FOR ALL- Searched thread for but could not find definitive answer: What causes severe roller marks? Having trouble with horizontal surfaces (roof, hood, trunk) while verticals have no marks. Opening hood and trunk helped some, but still there. Thanks for any help.

From what Ive read severe roller marks are usually caused by a too thick mixture or by pressing too hard.

It seems everyone is leaning toward Brightside rather than Rustoleum, anyone got anything to say about this? Anyone know of any problems with Brightside & Aluminium?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rustoleum_as_an_automobile_paint

Why no one did this sooner I don't know. I had to join this forum to tell you I joined wikipedia to put that up there. I encourage all of you who have contributed to register at wikipedia and fix the article. I am about to start the process but I'm sure I made some errors as I used the first 3 pages and my memory as reference. I did not upload any images because none of them are mine but I encourage all of you to upload your results (good and bad) and put them on the page.

Another note, the reason tug boats fade is probably because of the harsh conditions. I am assuming they are sea going tugs which means that not only do they have water, oxygen, and sunlight to contend with there is also the sodium. This leads to an oxidation of the surface layer of paint perceived as a fading or a clouding. So unless you park on the beach or commute from Hawaii to San Francisco in your road runner I don't think the paint will ever fade that bad. Also, how often do they wax those tugs?

I really hope everyone can summarize everything here on that article and I want to thank 69 for sharing the info and standing up to the initial adversity he encountered over this awesome technique.

That's a cool idea Empty01, but I don't think charger was the first person to paint a car with a roller and rustoleum. There were lots of hippies painting VWs in the 60s with paint brushes and i'm sure some of them used a roller. Before that, in the 40s and 50s, certainly someone painted an old hot rod or farm vehicle with a roller and enamel.



that point aside; there isn't a whole lot of difference from an application standpoint between rustoleum and brightside. And brightside gives better initial gloss (and has better gloss after wetsanding and polishing). for the cost difference ($50-100), go ahead and use brightside.

Not sure if it qualifies as an encylopedia entry either. Maybe as a subheading under "auto paint", if there is such an entry?

Beauty of wikipedia is the ability to edit. For now that's the best place to put it as far as collabrative information projects go. Feel free to go in correct and elaborate. That's the point.

I will go brightside if I can find it. Rustoleum black is still better than black under failed clear coat.

Exit1965,

Are you sure that brightside "has better gloss after wetsanding and polishing"?

The reason I ask is because I spoke to the Tech Rep at Interlux and he said that the gloss in brightside rises to the top and that the paint is not meant to be wetsanded and then polished. (Hence the high level of intitial gloss.)

Conversly, the Tech Rep at Rustoleum said that their paint can be polished because of the resins present throughout paint.

I am not a paint expert and I don't play one on T.V., I just thought I'd share what the company reps relayed to me. I'm sure there's someone here that can expalin the difference in the paints' composition - if a difference even exists.