Thanks! I'll try that first!

I won't use laquer thinner on any of my cars or motors painted surface Denatured alcohol works very well for removing tape residue without hurting the paint
That tip was given to me by commercial house painter a long time ago, go buy a gallon and use it for that as well as cleaning new overspray on engines and other things that you want to clean stuff off of

Plug these PNs into the Search by Part Number box. There is a $10 minimum so you'll end up with enough to do 2 or 3 starters. The starter I purchased is from O'reilley for a '98 RAM 1500 5.9, but I'm sure others will work. I found a lot of information on this board about starters with links to additional web forums. Sound like all brands are made in the same place.

76-82556
76-82557
72-82101

Alternator Parts

Got it! Thanks!

Thank you, I appreciate the information. Keep going with this thread, it is great!!

That tape was NASTY! It literally pulled the fingers off of my latex gloves. I had to go commando with a razor blade. After I got the big chunks off; I re-donned the latex gloves and hit it with scotch bright and denatured alcohol.

Cleaned out the threads in the heads, anti-seized the new header bolts, and am ready for the hard part (hopefully this weekend). Do I start with the easy side or hard side?

Do the hard side first and then enjoy the easy side

The "hard side" is in, and it was relatively uneventful with only minor scratches on the new pipes. I'm going to have to switch to a rear cable exit shifter as there is NO room for the cable. Luckily I ordered the 4 inch collectors as I wouldn't want to make things easy on myself once I start fabbing up the exhaust. Very tight clearances on 2 of the main cap cross bolts and tightening the starter bolts was a pain (about the same with the wedge).

I'm a little disappointed in the TTi Headers. I ran them on my wedge and that set was a bolt in and forget it. These HEMI headers...not so much!

After the initial install of the driver side, I noticed the cross bolts for the main caps hitting one of the primary tubes. Clearancing that tube allowed the header to shift causing the starter to hit. Once the starter tubes were dented up I gained clearance on the collector/cross member and everything seated nicely.

The passenger side was pretty much the same story. One tube hitting the main cap cross bolt, when clearanced the transmission hit one of the other tubes. Nothing like taking a rubber mallet to a brand new set of coated headers...

Finished product looks nice. The transmission pan actually sit lower than the headers.

On a side note; I went back through this thread and tried to fix all the dead instagram pics (what a pain in the rear!).

The tranny yoke is out a lot further than I like

Now that you mention it, I don’t remember it being that far out when I pulled it out.

Its unfortunate,but I had to do the same thing on my GTX. Brand new Hooker hemi headers and I had to beat them to death to get them to fit.

I’ve got a support on my steering shaft as well, if I could figure out how to upload a picture I would

Kevin

I have the 2.25" primary 4" collector TTI headers on mine. I had to dent one tube on the driver's side IIRC to clear one of the side main cap bolts. Had to clearance the passenger's side b/c it laid against the torsion bar. Not a big deal, but they fit great now, lol.

When did Hooker move manufacturing to China? I would have bought something else had I known.

I'm waiting on parts and decided to revisit this today. Good news! The valve covers come off relatively easy. Bad news, I have a few questions:

• I didn't like the breathers that came on my valve covers. I removed the tube that was welded to the cover and plan to replace it with a puch in style breather/gromet. However, the hole is a little large. Is there an oversized grommet or will I have to fab something?
• What is the "trick" for spark plugs? I've had these in/out a few times and it's painful! I have to carefully spin by hand with lube and/or anti seeze trying to thread in straight. They always feel like they are cross-threading! The heads are Indy SR. I currently have 7 of the 8 in good, but left one loose as I got tired of trying to make it happy; knowing that it would have to come out later when I revisit the valve cover.

The tube I removed:


The new "hole:"


Kind of "if-ie" from the builder:





Need something bigger:

Last I knew, most Hooker products were from Mexico, but most of my info is outdated as I stopped
paying much attention. Maybe the company purchase (doesn't Holley own them now?) put pressure on them to cheapen things up, like
almost everything else these days.

This might sound stupid but my favorite breather grommet is OEM Mopar number 2946079.
It's a little bit larger than the usual aftermarket stuff, and fits the 1970+ style breathers with the tube.

Are you ever thinking about putting a vacuum system on your motor?

I had no luck keeping a pair of breathers on the valve covers from putting oil everywhere on my 572. Tried different styles of breathers, baffled fittings, even wire mesh in the tubes, extending the tubes, etc.
I put a vacuum pump on it and it works good, but in hindsight I'd just run a pair of -10 lines, one on each cover, to a breather tank and call it good.

Sounds like the threads on that one cylinder are a little rough or sharp at the top causing the plug to be a pain to start. I just use a long extension and they thread in pretty easily.

That's what I'm doing! I found an oversized grommet online to fill the hole. Minimum purchase of 10, so I have a few spares for down the road.

I'm going to try the last sticky plug with the valve cover off to make sure it's going in straight. Just don't want to mess up my engine before I get a chance to start it! Thanks everyone!