Damn, I'm a crotchety old guy, and I feel like I just missed out on the fun.

Are you really staying to start it on carb cleaner? Might want to buy some starting fluid from those stores that sell all the cheap parts.

The symptoms are leading to a compression check.

Don't bet on it. We have worked on these things in the same conditions and still do when necessary. It was 39* today and I did a tune up on my 05 Durango in the driveway and I'm over 70.

That's a fact. Get it done make it run. No one to blame and no one to help. No computer and no ex brother in law to blame. I find a lot of people blame some one else for their lack of knowledge. Life's lesson is to listen and learn.

And yet you weren’t at all one of the crotchety old guys I was speaking of, you gave useful info and your suggestion is on my list. Today would’ve been the best day to work on it, and I would’ve loved to. My kids come before any old car and both were engaged in their activities today which allowed for me to go watch them participate in things they enjoy. My enjoyment of old cars was postponed, tomorrow I’m at the FH as well as Monday, which shoves my next day to look at it to Tuesday. I’ll report back then.


Feel free to anyone wishing to post what you may but I’m done with the non productive comments in this thread, yes I’ll likely read it to see if you posted info I can add to the list but if you’re being negative then I’ll just move on.


I do appreciate the help of those that have offered suggestions and up until the last few months have really enjoyed my time here.....

You probably didn't get past the 1st question I asked. Too bad, I gave you a sound trouble shooting procedure.

We don't know you, your abilities, or anything about the car. Having oil or not may sound like a stupid question, but there have been many times the answer to that question has changed the direction of the trouble shooting process. If we don't ask, how are we suppose to know?

30 degrees may be uncomfortable, but I've done trouble shooting on non running motors in a lot colder weather then that. I guess it just depends on how important getting it running is to you.

This crotchety old guy is going to sit back and laugh as you fumble along. I won't be bothering you with any more suggestions. Good luck getting the car running. Gene

Is there anyone here close enough to this guy to go over in person and help him out? He obviously lacks the skill, but seems like he needs some 'hands on' guidance, rather than just a bunch of guesses thrown at him.

I've had to work on cars outside in sub-zero weather, it sucks. I moved someplace it doesn't get near as cold.

Gene, I can appreciate your position on the not knowing me, a few simple questions would solve that though. I will own the fact that I didn’t put my level of knowledge out there. I will also say that sometimes I don’t on purpose, this thread will live long past me and I feel that sometimes too much knowledge of someone skews the conversation in a direction that may not be helpful to a novice in the future when they search for a similar issue and find this thread.

I’m not going to go into detail as to whom the crotchety old guy comments was made towards, some of them arent even in this thread. I however will state it was not directed toward you and yes I have your suggestion down on my list also.

In actuality pretty much every suggestion is on my list, even if I am certain it’s nit the issue. Why, because I’m human and sometimes I overlook simple just like every other human on this earth. All of you have been in this same position at one point in your lives. My “crotchety old guy” comment was made to remind the old guys that one day we won’t be here and if we treat those interested in the hobby in the manner in which some people here treat them these cars like us WILL DIE.

in my many decades of workin on cars ive had two that wouldnt start/run because the exhaust was plugged,one had the muffler full of ice because of short winter trips,,ice aint your problem,but a plugged exhaust might be
another old guy!!

I had a trainer at a job 25 years ago tell me "When you're lost go back to square one and start over.". I know myself I tend to convince myself I already know what's wrong and chase that instead of doing simple diagnosis.

A compression check will cover a lot of ground. Also, instead of carb cleaner just dribble gas down the carb and try to start it. Even WD-40 is better than carb cleaner, especially when it's cold.

I didn't re-read through the posts, but I hope the loose carb base was secured by this time.

The carb has been bolted down when the nitrous plate was removed.

Some crotchety OLD guys probably spent most or all of their life that way. Most likely being OLD has nothing to do with it. As far as the car, I would try to check the simple stuff first as many time things get overlooked.

Some of this has been covered, but give this a read.

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/2601166/1.html

Just throwing something else at the wall...

On the compression test you might block the choke/throttle wide open/pull the plugs & just do one cyl (wont take much time) & if it is way off that might point to a cam timing issue. I think you are OK there but sometimes going back to the basics is a good plan. Keep us updated.

Wow, I did read it all.

This

Why would I question someone trying to help me?

Well for one I’d say most of the people on any forum don’t read the full thread before replying, or they make statements that don’t help at all. Plenty of people on this board have egos and greater than thou attitudes assuming because someone asks for help that they haven’t already checked the most basic issues, including ensuring the fluids were good. Give me a break.


The worst are the old guys, the crotchety old guys are why this hobby is dying off. Young(er) people don’t want to be treated like their lesser than just because some old fart has been doing it with stock parts for 400 years or because a 9” rear-end is what they put in their Duster. Just answer the questions asked without your personal biases and move on, or if your an angry old a$$hole then don’t post at all.


Id try this, fine dirt or gravel will dry up moisture in the cylinders and also give the rings a a better grip on the cylinder wall to help restore sealing. Ya just need maybe 2-3 table spoons full. Just make sure the carb butterflies are open as im sure you know carbs like the stay clean. Ive heard a few x wives have helped there hubbies in this fashion with mixed results.

But really, ya need to try a little gas to see if it fires and runs. Some have used older carb cleaner to get an initial fire or test fire because it used be said it worked and was more gentle on the motor then straight starting fluid.

And yet it happens, especially with noobs. My SIL called me one day with a problem one of his AF coworkers was having. He was driving along in his truck and it just cut out and died. First thing I asked was "does it have gas?" I was assured yes it is, there was no way it was out of gas. So I drive 90+ miles up to Abilene, get to the truck and tell him to crank it. Not even a cough. So I pull the gas cap and have him cycle the key, (EFI truck) guess what I hear? A free running fuel pump. My SIL's truck was a virtual clone of his friends so I have both of them listen to both pumps so they can tell the difference.

5 gallons later he's on the road.

Never ASSume.

Even old crotchety farts can forget things and assume the basics.

Thank you gentlemen

that describes me, except the crotchety part [i thimk]
what day is this ?

Ok I got some things done yesterday, its supposed to be near 50 on Friday so I'll have more time to devote to it then.

Engine was primed.
The engine is at TDC and the rotor is pointing at No. 1 cyl.
The spark plug wires were in no order that would have let the car run, I'm pretty sure whomever put them on was blindfolded.
Cylinder pressures checked all were between 150-160.
Speaking of spark plug wires some of the boots were cracked on the Mallory wires so I pulled them all off and I'm building a set of MSD's I had set back.
Reluctor air gap was set at .006

Tomorrow I am going to remove the NOS switches from the cabin and their wiring from the engine compartment. At that time I will check the bulkhead connections and ensure there isn't an issue there will clean with electronics cleaner and dielectric grease them while I'm there