that's good stuff. I'm feeling alot better about this.

I'm suppose I'm guilty of having more tools around here, that have only been used once or twice, than I should. And I've made stuff that duplicates the function of expensive tools. Either way - engine, trans, rear, chassis, whatever - having the right tools makes a big difference. If I have to find a good used tool for the cost to make sense, I will. So much of this stuff can be had cheap on ebay and other places. Transmissions are one of those thing things - you never do just one, then never do another in life.

Or maybe a couple of longer bolts in three spots in your pump to catch it... Maybe put some towels down for when it falls out. It will "fall" on the floor the distance from the TC input the edge of bell. Put a wood block under it too. So many solutions.

All it has to do is drop about 1/2". Not dropping it off the empire state building.

Done at least 100 just letting them drop out while standing on the bell, never broke anything yet!

Yeah, I LOVE hillbilly engineering. Saves me money all the time when working on things. All good, even Rural works a lot of times and takes less time. Efficient!

Too many tools, guilty here too but must add one last hack. One time at the track we pulled the front pump by tapping it with a screwdriver, and did the front clutch retainer by one guy pushing it down with 2 hammer handles, and the other doing the snap ring.

the tools i have made over my lifetime for one time use is staggering !
when i got monroe's 727 book, i made all the tools necessary for one of those transmissions that i didn't have already, and then, have not used them one time !
got into front drive transaxles. had to fab up several tools for them.

just figures i guess. but i have lots of specialty tools.

Much appreciated guys! I think I can do this now & I will watch the vids. what clearance should I shoot for in the front & rear clutch packs & I am assuming you check em dry? & there was something I saw about discs being grooved or flat & one type is better for one or both of the clutch packs (iirc).

I always check the clearance after the discs have soaked in ATF for half an hour.

I prefer grooved/checkered in the front and smooth in the rear.

John that would make sense that they would expand a bit from that. Noted & I will go with the clearances Cope mentioned.

Don't forget to check the bushings. You can find reasonable bushing driver sets on ebay. Check out What It Takes Transmission's web site for a good schematic. They also sell oddball parts for decent prices. Here are my 904 build specs:

73 904 complete
4.2 billet front band lever (Cope Racing)
Cope Racing heavy duty band strut 
Cope Racing rear billet servo
New sprag inner race, springs and rollers
Cope Racing Front semi-rigid band red lining
Cope Racing Low reverse band red lining
Teflon pump support rings
Unrestricted pump support oil feed
Blocked front pump vent and relocated vent to upper tail shaft
Drilled front clutch retainer for quick piston release
Blocked accumulator - .002" clearance between piston and valve body
Front clutch:  5 - .061" Alto Red frictions, 5 - .068" Kolene steels.  Clearance = .060"
Rear clutch: 4 -.061" Alto Red frictions, 5 - .068" Kolene steels.  Clearance = .036"
Cope Racing 4 pin Low gear front planetary 2.74 first gear, 1.54 second gear (factory steel 4 planetary from Cope Racing).  Replaced thrust washer
Replaced all bushings
Used original rear planetary thrust washer
Replaced front clutch return spring with Cope Racing multi-spring clutch retainer
Total end play .013"
Gear train end play .009"
Front band adjustment - tighten to 70 inch pounds, back off 2 turns
Rear band adjustment - tighten to 70 inch pounds, back off 2 turns
Output shaft support bolts - 150 inch pounds
Pump body bolt torque - 160 inch lbs
Front servo pivot rod plug - 150 inch lbs
Tail housing bolts - 24 foot lbs
Pump to case bolts - 175 inch lbs
CSR transmission shield
ATI transmission pan - bolts 150 inch lbs
A&A Trans Brake - bolts 70 inch lbs (per A&A)
Air tested front, rear clutches, front and rear servos using 30psi.

Good luck with your build.

Thanks bro, I gotta get my printer hooked up! EDIT some of those tricky mods you posted, is there a vid or a book on em? MORE EDIT no shift kit (or did I miss it)? race only app?

Good thread guys, I had my 904 built last year by Mopar Billy's brother. It works great but its almost totally stock other than the front springs and a valvebody. I have a low gear 904 and an A-1 trans brake vb I want to build on my own. So far I have successfully taken it apart haha.

Humpty, were you able to move the vent back far enough to clear the CSI shield? On mine it looked like the shield covered the area where the rear vent would be. Thanks

You're halfway there!

He he. Sorry for the brain dump. Check out Carl Munroe's book: https://www.amazon.com/Torqueflite-727-Transmission-Handbook-HP1399/dp/1557883998

Also check out the tech section on Cope Racing's website.

This setup is for a street driven manual valve body. It's been 6.30 @110mph and seen more than 250 passes.

Here's where I put mine. No issues to date:

6.30 pass at Cordova last October:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YSNmSkJh_XE