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It's definitely a trade-off between rollering and spraying, depending on your resources available. I was originally planning on rollering because I did not have a good place to do any spraying, but a friend just offered me use of his barn for the entire winter which could be converted into a very nice paint booth.
There's also that concern how much more its' going to cost for spraying because there is more waste.

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If you guys are going through the hassle of spraying... why not just spray using the proper automotive paints like Charger suggested. Doesn't make sense to go through all the trouble to spray and then use the "wrong" paint. Sure it may be cheaper.. but spend an extra few bucks to get the real stuff. If I had a compressor and gun on hand I would definetely be spray the car instead of rolling brighside...

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i agree. BUT i can say that spraying tremclad/rustoleum can still be much eaiser than spraying auto paint. auto paints need reducers, primer, primer sealer, and color coats, all within "windows" and is hard to do for a novice. if you sprayed tremclad/rustoleum it's just spray and go, not that i'm reccommending it just to compare with the eaisest single stage paint job, it's still more work and you kinda have to know what your doing. plus that auto paint really stinks alot more than tremclad/rustoleum. but having painted alot of cars with auto paint, i can say it's the way to go if your allready spraying, use the right stuff.

another thing that i don't get is that people think it's so much work to roller paint, and wetsand, then roller paint, wetsand again and so on. but i can say the process is WAY eaiser, faster, and less stressful. when i rollered my charger in 3 days, you picture 3 days of painting......not true. I would paint 1 coat in the am (1-2 hours), one coat in the pm (1-2 hours) and the next morning wetsand (lets just say 2 hours), then repeat. it's not like you out there all day painting, plus you have the option of just stopping when ever you finish a pannel, then putting your roller in a bag, and call it a day, try that with spraying, most paints i used (single stage auto paints and BC/CC) have very specific windows in which you MUST paint. for example, primer you can perty much do whatever you want, but after you shoot the primer sealer, you have 30 mins in which you have to spray the color coat, if you miss that window you have to wait 5 days!!!!!.

i've sprayed, let's see.....oh about ........maybe 20-30 cars over the years, and i've rollered, about....5. i can say for the amount of time involved, no taping up the whole car, cleaning the gun, mixing paint, ect....all the stuff with spray painting auto paints; it's about to me at least 10 times eaiser to roll paint. besides, a good home auto paintjob using auto paints needs wetsanded/buffed/polished anyways, so it's really not that different. also the inbetween coats wetsanding is not done as good as the last wetsand before polish, it's just a quick wetsand of the whole car to cut down peel, that's all, it does'nt have to be perfect, it's the last wetsand that does.

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Are you saying the roller job doesn't need a real good wet sand just a quick- one between every other coat to cut down on orange peel???

I've definitely noticed it makes preceeding coats come out much smoother with less and less pronouced orange peel and more gloss. But, I might be spending much more time sanding between coats trying to eliminate all traces of orange peel when it isn't necessary.....and risking cutting into the underlying layers

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yes!!!

it is a fine balance between applying thin enough coats to avoid peel, and thick enough to not sand thru and actually get good coverage. the first 3-4 coats don't really matter, you just want coverage, and cut down the sanding time at final sand. you could just do 3 heavey coats and sand at the end, but it will be alot more work. if you can work the roller fast and good, then you could get away with 2 full strength coats, wetsand, then 1 more non thinned coat, then wetsand, then 1 coat thinned down and a final wetsand. i could do any, but i've used the paint ALOT. i'd bet i could paint a car in the dark and it would look great, but that's just because i've had alot of practice.....well maybe too much!!!

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well i am done with the wetsanding and bufing and the paint came out great.... but i have some haze in the paint. how do i get that out?????

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Hi All,

I'm yet another lurker of this thread...

Have been in the process of painting a project vespa using Brightside...

The info on here has been most helpful....

Sadly it seems I haven't been as methodical as I should have been....

I'm experiencing a load of orange peel.... I have managed to sand the surface smooth...I see a dull surface with no shiny bits head on... but when I tilt the panel in the light I can still see what I think is orange peel, there are bits of shiny...

So, my question is, if I go and roll another layer of paint, will this ever-so-faint orange peel disappear?

Cheers.

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the answer is no

sand all the peel out now, or you'll just take 1 step forward and 2 back. peel will never go away, even if it's slight, as soon as you put that next shiny layer or paint it will act like a magnifying glass and peel will be alot more evident. try to apply thinner coats until you cut the peel down to just a tiny bit, that you can sand out really quickly, remember each coat adds more peel. try expirementing with your thinned mixture, and only proceed on the hood for example until you find that "sweet spot", then do the whole car so you don't do double the work.

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Hurray for an update Exit! lol.

About the bubbles you are experiencing, do you forsee that as a problem on the final coat? When you wetsand the bubbles (if you get them on the final coat) won't it leave pin holes in the paint?

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Oh Bum!

And I thought I could get away with it.... Darn...

Ok, one more question... seeing as I'm likely going to sand through 90% of my work... will I need to use another layer of the interlux pre-coat? Is it really necessary?

Cheers.

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