i have the civic hatch with the red paint...milano red or w/e would the brightside paint match the color? anyone konw?

thanks

also how many qrts did u guys use to paint the whole car?

Hey all, I'm late to the party, but....
Has anyone tried adding some hardener to the Rustoleum or Brightside? I'm not very knowledgeable about paint, so this may not be a good idea. It sounds like a solution to the soft paint that some of us have experienced.
I'm considering the Brightside Flag Blue. Does anyone have a pic of this color. I'm looking for a very dark blue.
I've read all the posts from the beginning, took about a week. If this was covered, I misssed it.
thanks, Mark

There are enamel hardeners that should work with rustoleum (and maybe brightside). Valspar makes some. The problem is they are quite unhealthy.

To me, the logical next step from these single part paints, is to use a 2 part hardened urethane enamel such as Interlux Perfection. It can be rolled on, and should get as hard as any paint. It's a bit more expensive though, and the surface prep is more particular because I take it it's harsher and can pull up what's under it. I've painted brightside over rustoleum, as has Marq and maybe others, and it works fine. I've also put it over rattlecan primer with no issues (at least yet, but there's no sign of any problem).

As Exit said, hardeners/catalyst is what contains the isocyanates...one of the reasons we are not using automotive paint.

Exit,

Previously, you mentioned that the Off White color from the Interlux Color Card didn't match your actual paint. Does your current Hatteras Off White match the Color Card?

Thanks.

Any updates on how well the painting process w/ brightside is going Exit? Postive/negative?

I should have an update this weekend, I am going to sand on Thursday and Friday and roll on Saturday.

There was a guy on here a couple of months ago, "RollinOlds"? who was about lay down Brightside Flag Blue. I am about to order some but wanted to see it on a car first as the color chips on Interlux's site arent much help. Anybody done this that can post a few pics ???? HELP

im in ajax =) i beat ya'll

Long time listener, first time caller here. I started reading about this method earlier this summer and I decided to try it out on the fender of my '72 Super Beetle. I was so pleased with the results and ease of application that I jumped in head first and did my whole car about a month ago.

I've been posting progress pics on my Flikr account and writing about the whole thing up on my blog if anyone is interested. You can read it here.

And now for the pictures:





Good times... lot of work, though. If you read my postings on my blog, you'll find that I skipped a couple of steps in the Rustoleum recipe, namely the wetsanding–-I saved that for last. All of my friends are blown away that I used a roller to paint my car. Personally, I'm blown away that I was able to find close-matching orange in Rustoleum (Safety Orange). It's almost an homage to charger's orange beetle (mine was originally orange anyway).

Here's what I used:
-Professional Rustoleum: Safety Orange
-Cut with Odorless Mineral Spirits
-Wet-sanded once before a final glaze coat
-Polished with Turtle Wax polishing compound
-Polished with 3M Swirl Mark Remover
-Soon to be waxed with Turtle Wax High Gloss Wax

Gumby Mac - very nice job, my car was originally orange too (74 beetle) so i decided to go back to the original color, i think your car looks awesome, very nice work.
i really like orange on a bug.

I'm feeling the weight of the expensive paint job coming off my shoulders. In 1985 I painted my 260z with lacquer. The process with painting, wet sanding,painting ,wet sanding, etc,etc, and then polishing is very much the same. I got a very nice paint job that way. Our garage conditions were pretty rough. But it worked. And at the time it probably cost me about 200 bucks in materials.
Now I have a 240z that hasn't been completed since the modern paint system is deadly and I'm not going to spray it in my home garage. So the car has just sat. Now because of the roller process the car is finally on the way to be completed. I didn't want a "show" car finish. And being a 70's car it didn't have a high gloss finish to begin with. My biggest issue was to get a paint that would be a close match to the "Burnt Orange" factory color. I practiced with Rustoleum to see how easy the roller would lay down paint. Which it does well. But, I had to find a paint to use that could be matched to my color. I went to Sherwin Williams since they had an Industrial/Marine Alkyd enamel paint that seemed to fit the bill ($38 per gallon) and could be custom mixed to match color. So far thinning the S/W paint with Xylene has given the best results. The Mineral spirits didn't seem to mix well. Also, the S/W gloss is not as good right out of the can as Rustoleum. So that will have to come with polishing. I do remember lacquer paint seemed to be the same way. Lastly, I contacted my Benj. Moore rep to see about one of their paints. M22 enamel($68 per gal). It is a Urethane reinforced Alkyd. And it can be color matched. So as an experiment I might try it since I believe it can be thinned with Mineral spirits. I think Gumby Mac process is a time saver. Although, I notice my orange peel getting less and less as I went up thru the stages of sandpaper when I would lay down each new coat. So waiting then end to wet sand may only work if you have minimal orange peel from the start.
P.S. I have a Porter Cable Orbital palm sander and 4 inch grinder that I believe can be adapted to use a buffer pad. The 4 inch grinder gets a orbital attachment to make it a buffer. So no need to buy a buffer tool if you have either a palm sander or a 4 inch grinder.

k, i tried the pearl just mixing it in a thin batch..Wow..you can acutally see it and its non affected by sanding. I still may mix it with a clear coat,but you can get the base coat down and wet sanded, then mix in a jar of pearl with a quart of paint...thin it, then paint....you will be amazed!!!

Steve

What "pearl" do you speak of? More info please. got pics of how it looks? really interested... i think marq tried this out and it didn't out that well...

Quote:

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k, i tried the pearl just mixing it in a thin batch..Wow..you can acutally see it and its non affected by sanding. I still may mix it with a clear coat,but you can get the base coat down and wet sanded, then mix in a jar of pearl with a quart of paint...thin it, then paint....you will be amazed!!!

Steve

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www.paintwithpearl.com

they also are on ebay....more choices.

Steve

I am in a similar situation. I have read through all of this and did this to my son's 1988 Honda Accord. I will include some images, but first the story.

We purchase the car for $1000 and had the windshield replaced (was cracked) for $150. I looked into Maaco options and was going to just prep the car and then take it there. I called a friend who restores and paints cars. Well it started out that if I would prep the car and prime it then he would spray it for me. This was just going to cost me materials (about $120) at that time. Well that quickly increased to $300 in material then I did not have the right size compressor and my body work was wrong and on and on. Then I was ready to have it sprayed and then after 3-4 weeks of either it not being a good time or the weather turning to cold or raining I was very frustrated. I then ran across this post and read through the entire thing.

What a GREAT way to paint a car and without the mess and COST of the spray on material. It takes a lot of elbow grease to make this work especially with black, but the results are great. Once we decided to got at this ourselves (myself and my son) it took about 5 days to paint, wetsand (two coats of paint and then wetsand) three times and then polish to get our finished product. I did need to upgrade from a $20 orbital waxer to a $30 (on sale at Harbor Freight) polisher/sander. You MUST be carful with this machine!! Anyway thanks to all - now the pics!