Here is another!

This is a before shot of the same car.

[quote= 69chargeryeehaa"]here's how i painted my car for about $50, it's actually very easy and the results are amazing.

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I got here because I had said that /6's were nearly indestructible and a poster to my truck site OTN (Old Truck network) (where they talk more politics then trucks, but that's OK too), told me I should visit the crazy /6ers here. I was just nosing around and caught 68chargers statement. (and what a 'statement' it was).

My wife has a 63 Dart and my daughter has a 63 Valiant and I (back in the 70's) owned a 68 Charger RT(still miss that car), I hope that qualifies me to be on this board-LOL.

I'm currently building a 1955 1st Chevy Pickup for my wife. The engine and drive train I have no problems with (I used to own some speed shops in Cal. in the 60's and 70') but I know less then nothing about bodywork and painting. I'm practicing my 'bodywork' on a 46 GMC pickup that I have before I go to my wife's pickup. In preparations for doing the painting I had checked around and seen where the biggest problems for people on doing their own painting was 1: AIR supply- so I bought a commercial Ingersol-
Rand compressor and a top of the line HVLP gun. Next I was planning on building a paint booth shop set up for breathing outside air. (lots of $$$).

I really didn't want the bc/cc look but I didn't feel that I wanted to pay someone to do MY work for me either. I enjoy the 'patina' that older vehicles have and was hoping to somehow approach it.

It looks like 'all' of my vehicles will be rollered, so now I have an excellent air compressor for my shop-LOL.

The rig that I am excited about this method for is my 1945 GMC COE Victory Truck that was originaly red with black fenders.

Since I started reading this thread (how many years ago was that now?) I have really been giving the 'old eyeball treatment' to others paint jobs in parking lots and shows. Either you guys are being to finicky and fastidious or others just don't know what 'a good paint job' is.

This will surely go down as one of the greatest 'novels' I have ever read.

Thanks to 69charger and all others in the writing of it

oly - your welcome. it's 69chargeryeehaa by the way, the yeehaa part comes in when i drive by the body shops with my charger!!!!

i really wonder how many sucess stories are really out there and not posting pics!!!!!

what a monster i've created muhahahahahah!!! (where's that Dr. evil emoticon when you need it!!!!)

i totally agree, people view the roller method as more work than spraying, and i see it as the total opposite, no mess, mixing reducer with a measuring cup, hope it does'nt rain, kill your family, overspray on everything you own, ect.....on and on it goes. Spraying paint on only accomplishes applying paint onto a surface in a thin uniform layer....rollering on thin paint with less "flash" time in thin uniform coats accomplishes the same end result, the tremclad/rustoleum paint in my book is the perfect paint for this process, it's durrable, cheap, easy to work with, and it's cheap, plus not to mention the fact that it does'nt cost alot!!!! Actually i really think that the roller method yeilds a thinner overall thickness of paint compared to single stage or BC/CC paints since there is no primer, primer sealer, topcoat.....or....primer, base, clear. overall at least my paintjobs are much thinner than any conventional auto painting technique, plus even with a HVLP setup which i too have and have done alot of, i used less paint on the charger than the 71 bug (midnight blue)!!!! it really doesn't matter how you apply the paint (spray/roller) it just matters that you apply it thin and uniform, that is accomplished using the roller technique, with the added benifits of being able to do it at home and not battle dust/dirt/hair/bugs, ect.....everything about this technique is eaiser, less stressful, cheaper, ect....than spraying paint. i painted my charger in 3 days, from just after prep to done, if i had sprayed that car, it would have taken me longer, i'd have to tape up the car, prime the car, sand the car, tape up the car, primer sealer, then paint, clean up the huge mess, ect....opposed to no taping, no overspray, work at a leisurely pace, wetsand (which to me is a walk in the park compared to taping up a car!!!!) then polish....ummmm, i'll roll-on.

69chargeryeehaa, please forgive my faux pas. I have made the proper adjustments.-LOL

I have somehow become a tad confused on which rollers to use. I have found the 4 inch 'white foam' roller that is about one inch in diameter, but I have also found some that are two inches in diameter with the white foam. Which roller is the proper one?

On a side note- My 45 GMC COE was getting some bad rust and rust through in some places and my wife knew it would be some time before we could get to restoring it, so she and my daughter decided to paint it with a 'rust paint' call Zero Rust. They painted it by brush completly, over rust and paint with just wire brushing it before hand painting it. Within a short while (six months or so) I could not even get the paint off from the rust area with a knife, but on nearly all of the rest of the truck the paint formed large bubbles (over six inches across) and just peeled the orignal paint off right down to the orignal shiny sheet metal. Is there certain types of paint that these 'rust paints' can react with to cause this? Or, was it just that it happens to be a wierd paint that they used at the factory because of it being a war time truck? (The paint on the truck had no bubbles before putting on the Zero Rust.) Do I need to take these old rigs all the way to solid bare metal? Or, is Rustoleum different then Zero Rust?

Well, after following some 80-odd pages of this thread, I decided to do the deed and paint my chocolate brown metallic 82 280zx turbo Rustoleum Professional Gloss White. Though the weather this past week has sucked down here in Southeast Texas, the job came out better than I could ask for. Easy, you bet. And my total cost for the job was 126.00, but had to buy a new orbital sander included in the price. Two quarts of paint, a gallon of mineral spirits, 6 4" foam rollers,a quart of Bondo, and miscellaneous other items produced one nice looking paint job.Heres a couple of pics...5 days start to finish.

Primered with Spray-on Rustoleum primer

First Coat on hood while still wet

Final, just need to add bumpers. Rocker panels and bumpers are Spray-on Duplicolor Bedliner.


Thanks for all the info!

Mike

Mike, looks great how many coats?

Ended up being 7 coats, but most of that was due to my inate ability to sand through while wet-sanding, especially on the hood. Gonna wait about a month and wet sand with 2000 grit, and polish it out after that. I couldn't believe how easy it was. Again, many thanks to all those who contributed any input, shortcuts and tips.

Mike

More to come. Bumpers and grille are on now.

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heres how mine turned out. not buffed out at the moment but 12 coats of paint later and its verry good. lots of wet sanding and buffing to come...

So you shot 12 coats of paint or did you go to a roller?

How much paint did you use?

i cant believe this post is still going lots of reading to do here

hvlp gun

3 quarts of gloss black rustolium

i am also taking the masking tape you see on the windshield and frontmount, and making stencils for the fender and the hood emblems with pinstripe paint from eastwood the masking tape is the mickey's from eastwood too.

Marq, Exit, or anyone using Brightside,

What was the price per quart you guys payed for Brightside? I thought it was mentioned before.

Over here in Redondo Beach, it's $46/quart for Hatteras White.

Thanks.

Hi All,
Back in March of this year I started reading the original post and since I needed a paint job by April I jumped in quick. Well it's been nearly6 months and I can't count the compliments I've gotten or how much I like the results. Paint has withstood weather, washing, waxing, and being non-garaged. If you are thinking about it ...Don't hesitate. Paint paint paint!!!.

Ron 1969 Datsun Roadster

Polished and assembled for the most part. Still need to work on the door weather strip. Shines enough for me.

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