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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: admactanium] #26058
10/11/06 07:05 PM
10/11/06 07:05 PM

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Quote:

post some pics of the results. i think you could get good results using turtle wax. but if you have a pep boys nearby you could pick up some meguiars or 3m polishes that are really good. i've seen both of those lines pretty extensively at my local pep boys.




I'm off to Pep Boys then, anything, within reason, to make the job easier. I would like to continue the project into the cold winter months, however wetsanding outside in the cold isn't my idea of a fun time. I guess I could heat the garage and do it in there, but I don't want the mess in there, since if I do this I will be painting in there. /shrug

Re: Paint Job [Re: 69DartGT] #26059
10/11/06 07:29 PM
10/11/06 07:29 PM
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Dave don't want to second guess you or anyone else I but I don't think I'll use the any thinner except what Interlux's brand either the 216 or 333 if I'm remembering right, but if its working for you can't knock that..
Mineral Spirits just doesn't in my mind seem right for polyurethane paint..




I am sort of with you on that. I believe you can get away with mineral spirits. BUT for the final coat I would prefer it to either be pure untainted Brightside OR cut with the 'officially recommended' Interlux brushing liquid.

My reason for this is simple : I want the final coat of paint to have no excuse whatsoever for clouding ( fogging ) or for losing some of its gloss. I believe from the one layer that I did paint while cutting with smelly mineral spirits that the paint 'accepted' the mineral spirits, but that it did result in a hint of fogging and a loss of some gloss.

I note on the Interlux site they do sell a chemical additive that INTENTIONALLY will flatten the paint so that it has NO GLOSS. Since I have not examined a can of that flattening thinner, I don't know which solvent has the ability to kill the gloss. So that is why I stuck with the product 333 for all subsequent coats of paint.

.

Re: Paint Job [Re: Marq] #26060
10/11/06 09:07 PM
10/11/06 09:07 PM
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Quote:

Quote:

Dave don't want to second guess you or anyone else I but I don't think I'll use the any thinner except what Interlux's brand either the 216 or 333 if I'm remembering right, but if its working for you can't knock that..
Mineral Spirits just doesn't in my mind seem right for polyurethane paint..




I am sort of with you on that. I believe you can get away with mineral spirits. BUT for the final coat I would prefer it to either be pure untainted Brightside OR cut with the 'officially recommended' Interlux brushing liquid.

My reason for this is simple : I want the final coat of paint to have no excuse whatsoever for clouding ( fogging ) or for losing some of its gloss. I believe from the one layer that I did paint while cutting with smelly mineral spirits that the paint 'accepted' the mineral spirits, but that it did result in a hint of fogging and a loss of some gloss.

I note on the Interlux site they do sell a chemical additive that INTENTIONALLY will flatten the paint so that it has NO GLOSS. Since I have not examined a can of that flattening thinner, I don't know which solvent has the ability to kill the gloss. So that is why I stuck with the product 333 for all subsequent coats of paint.

.




If you have your can of 333 with you, can you see what it contains? In a previous post, I think you mentioned MEK?

On my can of brightside, under the NJ/PA "right to know" information, the only solvent listed there is mineral spirits. Along with some other ingredients, polyurethane alkyd and some other alkyd. I'm no paint expert, but it says right on the can "premium enamel" and since mineral spirits appears to be the solvent the paint uses, I don't see a big reason not to use it.

I got plenty of gloss when using it with a roller, and still have plenty of gloss with the sprayed on version, especially where I sprayed enough material for there to be some decent self leveling.

More evidence on mineral spirits side would be nice (anyone??), but an extra $10 for the actual brushing liquid might not be a bad investment at this point.

I have read on boating forums about using penetrol, but one person mentioned they thought it decreased gloss, so that's out.

Marq, when you noticed haziness was that after application but before any sanding or polishing? The fender I painted with mineral spirits and a roller sat for a week and looked as wet as it did when I first painted it.

Re: Paint Job [Re: Exit1965] #26061
10/11/06 09:12 PM
10/11/06 09:12 PM
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Rancho Cordova, CA
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Hmm... looks like 333 contains kerosene and naptha, at least that's all I get from the safety sheet..

https://secure.international-coatings.com/yacht_msds/msds.asp?SalesCode=Y333&Region=US#

Re: Paint Job [Re: Exit1965] #26062
10/11/06 09:36 PM
10/11/06 09:36 PM
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Southern, Ca.
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Now that surprises me, but read the data sheet on the product 216 stuff for spraying nasty!!
I'd have to think for roller or brushing the mineral sprits aren't bad..
Funny two different thinners one to spray one to brush?

Re: Paint Job [Re: Exit1965] #26063
10/12/06 01:38 PM
10/12/06 01:38 PM

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Hey guys, I wanted to chime in here. On Sunday I put the final (6th) coat of Brightside "eBay" (meaning, cheap!) Fire Red on my Jeep. Throughout the process, I used odorless mineral spirits, since I could not find the stinky stuff. Prior to deciding to use mineral spirits, I researched the MSDS sheets on the various solvents and the Brightside products (see page 34 for my post about that), and concluded that the odorless MS should work fine. And apparently, it did, as I think the Jeep looks awesome. Oh, I used about one and 2/3 quarts of paint for the six coats.

I am headed out of town after work today, but if I get a chance over the weekend and we get some sunshine, I will take pics of the "final product" and have MontanaMan post them for me. The Jeep is extremely shiny/glossy, and the process worked fine. I only wet sanded between coats 2 and 3, mainly to remove the "particles" I talked about previously. I guess I got lucky or do not know what I am looking at/for, because I don't think I had any "orange peel" at all. I will probably wait until springtime to do polishing and buffing, since I am about to take the Jeep to the farm for its intended function--to use as a hunting vehicle and I will not have the facilities to do those things on it after waiting a month. That being said, I may end up not doing anything more on it, since it probably is not needed for my purposes.

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions and input through all of this, especially to Charger 69 for starting it off and to Marq for keeping the ball rolling.


Re: Paint Job #26064
10/12/06 05:29 PM
10/12/06 05:29 PM
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That does it for me anything I roll on with the Brightside will be thinned with mineral spirts But if I spray I think I'll use the product 216 thinner.

Re: Paint Job #26065
10/12/06 05:53 PM
10/12/06 05:53 PM
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Cool. Sounds like I'm back to using mineral spirits too.

Crusader - what percentage did you thin the brightside with? Did it take 6 coats to get coverage? It seems like 2 medium-thick coats is/will do the job on my car, but with the thicker coats seems to come orange peel. If you thinned it out more, it makes sense there would be less orange peel but it would take more coats.

Re: Paint Job [Re: Marq] #26066
10/12/06 08:56 PM
10/12/06 08:56 PM

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i might have a delima... when i wet sanded i went through a layer of paint and made a circle from the paint layer underneith and i buffed the paint and the spot is still there do i have to put a coat of paint on or can i do something else?

Re: Paint Job #26067
10/12/06 11:55 PM
10/12/06 11:55 PM
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Quote:

i might have a delima... when i wet sanded i went through a layer of paint and made a circle from the paint layer underneith and i buffed the paint and the spot is still there do i have to put a coat of paint on or can i do something else?




Sounds like you will need to re-coat. And it may take a few coats to get the color uniform across the entire panel.

But fortunately you can probably limit your work to just fixing up that one panel or section that you oversanded.

Been there.... done that... had to repaint a section myself because of overly ambitious sanding

Don't feel bad. I am sure that 'we' are not alone...

.

Last edited by Marq; 10/12/06 11:56 PM.
Re: Paint Job [Re: Marq] #26068
10/13/06 01:55 PM
10/13/06 01:55 PM
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Oh, you guys aren't alone by any means, I have sanded thru quite a few times. I usually do it on the edges or body lines or something like that. As a result I have learned to tape those spaces when wet sanding and then only very lightly sand after removing the tape.

Gerbs

Re: Porter Cable 7424 knockoff? [Re: v8mirage] #26069
10/13/06 02:50 PM
10/13/06 02:50 PM

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Hey ... anybody know of a cheap imitation of the Porter Cable 7424? Something that gives the same action, but perhaps less bulletproof? It's hard for me to justify paying for professional-quality when I only use it maybe once a year.

If you do know of one, do you have a link to it?

Thanks!!

Re: Porter Cable 7424 knockoff? #26070
10/13/06 03:08 PM
10/13/06 03:08 PM
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Re: Porter Cable 7424 knockoff? [Re: Wyl E Coyote] #26071
10/13/06 05:00 PM
10/13/06 05:00 PM

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Quote:

This is the one I got -

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayIS...s_promot_widget




That polisher is a rotary, whereas the PC is a random orbital (RO) polisher. Be careful with it as a rotary is a lot more agressive than a RO so the chances of damaging the paint will be much greater.

If anyone is looking for a PC type of polisher, look for an orbital sander that has a variable speed control, and a 5" to 6" circular base.

This one as an example would be great for polishing.

Re: Porter Cable 7424 knockoff? #26072
10/13/06 06:47 PM
10/13/06 06:47 PM
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Hey ... anybody know of a cheap imitation of the Porter Cable 7424? Something that gives the same action, but perhaps less bulletproof? It's hard for me to justify paying for professional-quality when I only use it maybe once a year.






A few fast thoughts ( as if I am ever fast... )

a ) You might be surprised how often you will actually use it once you get it. It makes polishing, waxing and buffing a breeze and fun. I actually look forward to putting it to work

And don't forget that the more you polish and wax it, the shinier and glossier it is going to get.

b ) I also went into sticker shock when I first found out what they retail for. But if you recall my past message, what I found was that at the 'service and repair' depots they have re-boxed units, refurbs and even brand new units ( which are plastic wrapped instead of boxed ) for as little as $115 Canadian.... which in US dollars is about $100 bucks... I am sure that you should be able to locate a service depot near you where you might be able to pick up one of these units.

So I agree with you about avoiding the high cost. But once you get one of these puppies you will wonder how you lived without it... and you are going to be seriously looking for things to put it to work on. My son put it to work on our riding mower hahahhahhhha...

Here is the search for eBay...

http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll...ntrypage=search

Last edited by Marq; 10/13/06 07:18 PM.
OK round one and orange peel galore... *DELETED* [Re: Marq] #26073
10/14/06 07:32 PM
10/14/06 07:32 PM

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Post deleted by 69DartGT

Re: OK round one and orange peel galore... #26074
10/14/06 07:36 PM
10/14/06 07:36 PM

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I notified moderator in an attempt for help but i think ur only suppose to do that if something is wrong on a page...sorry if i screwed up haha

Re: OK round one and orange peel galore... #26075
10/14/06 07:56 PM
10/14/06 07:56 PM
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Two things come to mind - 10-15% is too low for rolling rustoleum (spray might work OK that low), and secondly, I've owned a lot of computers and never owned one with a smooth case. The case has always had some texture to it. Not unlike orange peel or some very fine dot texture.

Unless your case has no texture (what kind of case is that?), you'd need to mix up a skim coat of bondo and fiberglass resin, put it lightly over the surface, then sand the surface down with 180, then 220 then 400 if you like. As long as you see a bondo colored smooth surface and have sanded reasonably well, it will be a smooth surface like that of a car.

Also - if you haven't read most of this thread or the original, it would be a good idea to do that. You'll see it's very much still alive (though focus has mostly turned to marine paint), and I think at this point we should not be emailing answers since other people can benefit from reading about this process from the many people who have tried it.

one more thing - the coat looks way too thick. Thick coat + not enough thinning is a recipe for orange peel no matter what texture the surface.

Last edited by Exit1965; 10/14/06 07:58 PM.
Re: OK round one and orange peel galore... [Re: Exit1965] #26076
10/14/06 08:06 PM
10/14/06 08:06 PM

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The case is 100% flat. No texture 100% aluminum.That is why i chose it. It had a thin layer of silver paint that i scuffed with 400grit. As for the thinning of the paing 10% is not enough huh? what would you suggest? 20%? I kno there are 500 factors blah blah blah but spit me out a number if 10 isnt doing it for me. Maybe its just to thick of a coat

Re: OK round one and orange peel galore... #26077
10/14/06 08:08 PM
10/14/06 08:08 PM

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Thses day highend cases dont have much texture because there all aluminum or composites. cheaper cases will have a any texture.

Last edited by 69DartGT; 10/14/06 08:30 PM.
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