First step is to pull the engine. This engine is going to go into my Duster and I'm going to build a 426W with a 4.25 stroke to drop back into the Coronet.

I have a list of updates to perform to the car while the engine is out. The list might be more than I can accomplish this winter so I'll just work on stuff until I run out of time and then call it good.

That’s the smallest oil filter I’ve ever seen on a BBM.

Are you going to keep the Doug Nash in the Coronet?

Staying true to the 65 model year and going with a 426w. The purist in you

Looking forward to your updates.

I'm really looking forward to the updates and cool stuff you do to it.

Not sure why exactly, but it seems like it's important right now to drive some content. Maybe to overcome some of the "slowness" here. Then again, this format ain't for everybody.

Other than that, looks like the life of a development vehicle

I'm keeping it for now. I like the 5 speeds but I don't like how the Doug Nash shifts. I need to find a Doug Nash expert someday and explore my options. If I can't ever get it to shift correctly then I might change over to something else. It isn't anything I need to solve during this tear down though.

Yeah I've been toying with the idea of putting a 426W back in the '65 for a long time. It is kind of a stupid idea in terms of making power since the 426 has smaller bores than a 440 block but I guess I just like the idea of a 426W engine in an original 426W car.

I have a SCAT superlight 4.250 crank and Molnar 7.100 long rods so it will end up being a 496 inch engine. Pump gas, hyd roller cam, TF 240 heads, Sniper fuel injection, etc.

I was planning to use the Schumacher tri-y headers but neither side fits perfectly. The passenger side hits the scattershield and the driver side hits the clutch linkage. I can modify the headers to work but I might try the TTI shorty headers to see if they work.

I've used the small 409 filter on my engines for a long time. I learned that trick years ago from a local racer. The small filter takes up less space, is easier to install and primes faster.

That is such a cool car. I'm glad you are keeping the stick. Out of curiosity what do you not like about how it shifts? Is it a high rpm or regular street driving issue?

Also, if you have a chance can you post a few picture of the tunnel and trans cross member. I'm curious how much room you had to make compared to my gf5r. I'd be interested to see if you like my Long H-pattern over the shifter you are using. They are same-same from the DN for the GF.

Lastly, I see that you have three vent holes in the block saver. I like that idea. Do you also have a hole or slot in the bottom for checking the clutch air gap?

Thanks for sharing Andy!

When my Richmond was still stock with syncronizers I was using a Mcleod Street-Twin and I HATED the way it shifted. I determined one of my problems was the clutch, to much rotating mass to clear for a clean disengagement of the input shaft.
Not sure if you are using that unit but I have seen it in some of your photos. The syncronizers in the street Nash box are the same as a Borg Warner Super T-10 and there are some improved parts out there. There are some road race versions of the syncros that offer improved power shifting. The type of fluid is also an issue when shifting becomes a chore and synthetic is a big no no . I use Passon's gear lube in all my re-builds and my own Richmond box. That Nash is extremely easy to rebuild just don't disassemble the shifter detents they are a pain to re-assemble.
Your firewall wiring looks like mine(very busy) I'm also working on that this winter.
Gus

I had a street twin but I sold it. What was in the car was an aluminum flywheel with a McLeod disc and Long type clutch. I am using Redline MTL fluid so that could be part of the issue.

I think it is a synchro problem. When I try to shift the shifter will move out of gear easily but it feels like it hits a wall before it goes into the next gear. The shifter hangs up for a half second and then it goes into gear. I cannot shift it quickly, it just hits the wall and then after a moment it goes into gear. So the synchro is probably not spinning up to speed. Changing the fluid would be an easy fix so I'll try that.

Yes, the wiring is a big mess. If it was a show car I'd worry about it but this is a R&D vehicle so I don't care too much. I'm constantly testing different parts on the car so stuff gets installed and then taken off and I just leave the extra wiring hanging there. Most people don't understand the whole R&D vehicle thing so they just assume I'm a messy guy who can't finish the project. Not the worst thing for people to think about me I guess.....

Hey Andy, I don't think you can even buy that pressure plate any longer. At least in automotive applications. They make some for pulling trucks or something. I still use that B&B/Long cover so I know their limits.

2400 pounds of base and that disc is a parts killer. I would suggest you contact Cale Aronson at Black Magic clutches and let him update that cover. You can talk to Cale or his wife Tinzy. She is on the ball about clutches.

Cale has made his own fingers for that cover and for relatively low money he can make your cover adjustable. You won't have as much adjustment as you would with a Long style cover (I think my cover goes from 330 pounds of base to 990 and I use some counterweight to get what I think I need) but you'll at least be able to tune on it.

Some clutch shops won't deal with that cover. Cale will. I'd at least give him a call and talk to him. I think that's just too much plate load for that disc.

That won't make it shift any better, but with a sintered iron disc and that cover tuned up for adjustability you'll certainly like driving it better.


As for shifting...as the RPM and the disc weight go up and get heavier, the clutching teeth on the gears are too fine and you just can't get the slider to slid over those clutching teeth.

What I have done for years is a simple slick shifting process. And if I'm driving it on the street, I grind every other tooth off the clutching teeth on the gear and then every other tooth on the slider. I also grind every other tooth off the syncro and then assemble the transmission just like a stocker with syncros and all of it.

That, I promise you will make shifting as easy as a hot knife through butter. And the syncros will still allow up and down shifting like a stocker and you won't have to hold the shift lever and keep it in gear on decel.

I've done that for years and it's never failed to work on 833's, top loaders, Muncies and I've done a couple of Nash boxes in the early 1990's. My current car is configured like that and my wife can drive. She don't have the gonads to power shift it, but she can drive it just fine.


That's the best info I have and I hope it helps.

Have you check the actual clearances between the clutch disc, pressure plate and flywheel with the pedal depressed? If not you should have around .060 minimum for the stock Mopar synchro to shift good with the pedal adjusted just like you drive it
Been there, done that

See if Liberty works on the Nash. They are well known for manual trans improvements.

Yeah mine shifts lightning fast now

Gus

If they are face plated like that...IIRC...they won't stay in gear on decel. That's why I just slick shift them and the syncros and put them back together. They shift flawlessly and I don't have to hold it in gear.

I sent my 23 spline parts off to liberty a couple of years ago
and had them face plated
It shifts with absolutely no resistance and mine has never come out on decel
I'll never put one together without having one faceplated
A dream to drive and a ton of fun

Good to know. What about downshifting with face plates? I've thought about FP my junk if and when I tear up the sliders and/or gears. I also like down shift without RPM matching. Drove truck for years so I can do it. Just would rather not.