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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
[Re: Wyl E Coyote]
#25938
10/01/06 12:42 PM
10/01/06 12:42 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Quote:
HEY Folks... I am not sure if some one else had found this web site yet, But here is yet another Marine Paint Specialist - Blue Water. They seem to have some bright colors  including Orange  .... I have seem to found some more blues for myself  ...
http://store.nationalpaintsupply.net/blwapoto.html
Excellent find! Not much in the green range, but the red/orange range is MUCH better. Thanks!
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Re: Profesional Results?
[Re: Exit1965]
#25939
10/01/06 12:48 PM
10/01/06 12:48 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Quote:
Basically from what I've noticed, it boils down to this. If I rolled it, I can still dent it with my fingernail but it does not come all the way off.
My experience echoes Exit's. I did one experiment with less mineral spirits and it dried satisfactorily hard, but the self-leveling is reduced. I'm using the "Stops Rust" variety and I've tried both odorless and stinky mineral spirits (couldn't tell a difference) in 80F deg weather.
The comments about Rustoleum paint having fish oil are false. Only the primer has fish oil.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25940
10/01/06 01:06 PM
10/01/06 01:06 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
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Quote:
To Marq or others who have experience with auto painting--after my first coat of Brightside on my Jeep, it felt real smooth. After the second coat, I felt and saw these little, bitty specks that I figured were bubbles that I just overlooked and did not brush out. So, yesterday I did my third coat, and it seems that those specks are on there again. I am pretty confident that they are not bubbles. So, what are they? My guess would be dust particles, or something else from the ambient conditions? What do you guys think, and what do I do to avoid them? My garage really is not very clean, and wetting the floor is not doable. My guess is that I am stuck with them. If I do not sand until after the final coat (when I would use that ultra fine grit paste or whatever), will I be okay?
Ok... I love a good detective mystery... and the case of the mysterious flecks has my brain trying to kick into gear.
I do know... that during the course of my painting I went through a fair number of those high density 4" foam rollers. I was mostly using the ones I had purchased at the Home Depot.
We were buying 4" paint roller trays at the local dollar store ( where they sell them for 2 trays for a bucks ) and I decided to buy two packs of the 'el cheapo' 4" high density foam rollers that they were selling. What I noticed was that the 'el cheapo' white high density foam rollers were slowly...minutely.. disintegrating during the course of the paint job. By the end of the paint job the flecks coming off the disintegrating foam rollers was quite obvious.
At that point I just stopped using those el cheapo 'dollar store' 4" high density foam rollers and from then on I stuck to the slightly more expensive Home Depot ones. Which I did not have any problems of disintergration or chemical degradation of the foam.
Now... as to dust in the air... I also experienced a bit of a problem like that. My garage is located within 30 feet of the street. There is construction going on across the street. Dust is always in the air here. And at first when I was leaving the garage door open while painting the amount of dust creeping into the garage and landing on the paint job was detectable.
So my solution to the dust problem was to CLOSE the garage door ( that was obvious eh? ) and to not begin painting until the car had sat unmolested for almost a full day. This gave whatever dust was in the garage plenty of time to settle and drop out of the air. NEXT and most important.. when I did go into the garage to begin the next coating of paint I would do two things religiously :
a ) take a 'tack cloth' and wipe the entire body of the car down. This removed any dust that may have fallen down on to the car or had been electrostatically attacted to the side panels. Just for clarification for anyone who does not know what a 'tack cloth is'... it is a cheesecloth type thing that has a sticky wax like coating on it. When you rub it over a car, television screen, computer monitor, or furniture etc... it picks up all the dust and small particles on that surface. You can buy 'tack cloths' at Home Depot, Loews, NAPA and just about any place that sells automotive or painting supplies. At NAPA I got my best price... 25 sheets in a box for $25. At Home Depot they were charging about $1.49 per sheet. A TACK CLOTH IS NOT SIMPLY some new rag from one of those cheaper by the pound bag of painter rags.
b ) then I would wipe the car down with a cloth ( LINT FREE ) that was thinly wetted with mineral spirits. It is important that it be a LINT FREE cloth and not simply some new rag from one of those cheaper by the pound bag of painter rags.
At this point the body was about as dust free as it could be in that environment and I could begin painting the next coat.
Now... one thing about flecks of dust or even bug feet that might land on the surface of the wet paint... the good news is that they can only penetrate a microscopic layer into the skin of the drying paint. They just don't have the physical weight to bury themselves too deep into the tension of the wet or drying paint. It's like those water bugs that skim across on top of the water.... where the tension of the water's surface is sufficient that the weight of the water bug can't break that surface tension. That being said... dust flecks should be removal when you hit the wetsanding stage, or the compounding stage or the polishing stage.
Now here is an odd thought. Unfortunately I have dandruff. Don't blame me. Don't blame my shampoos... I just have dry skin on my scalp. At first I was not wearing a hat while painting. But I noticed once per layer a HAIR would land on the paint. So I began wearing my hat to ensure that no more hairs would fall down on the wet paint or while I was rolling the paint. It not only stopped stray hairs from getting in my work.. but it also brought a complete end to dandruff landing on the paint.
It's pretty bad when you think about it... but a hat or one of those nylon mesh hair things used by the food industry might be essential during the course of our paint jobs. It's bad enough to be seen rolling out paint with rollers... but to have to wear a food industry mesh cover over our heads... hahhahha yikes.
But think for a moment about the proessional shop paints when they step into their painting booth. In the classy and higher quality shops the guy walks into the paint booth in a throw-away paper coverall... just to ensure that he is not bringing any contaminnts into the booth with him...
Errrmmmmm... hope these rambling thoughts help somehow. It is hard to diagnose your specific flecks without actually being there and putting the eyeballs on them 
.
Last edited by Marq; 10/01/06 01:12 PM.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25941
10/01/06 01:14 PM
10/01/06 01:14 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
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Quote:
Quote:
HEY Folks... I am not sure if some one else had found this web site yet, But here is yet another Marine Paint Specialist - Blue Water. They seem to have some bright colors including Orange .... I have seem to found some more blues for myself ...
http://store.nationalpaintsupply.net/blwapoto.html
Excellent find! Not much in the green range, but the red/orange range is MUCH better. Thanks!
I LOVE THEIR RED selection. They have that darker deeper red that I was longing for...
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25943
10/01/06 02:48 PM
10/01/06 02:48 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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gemery Quote:
Excellent find! Not much in the green range, but the red/orange range is MUCH better. Thanks!
Check out this product that they offer:
http://www.nationalpaintsupply.com/vsite/vnavsite/page/directory/0,10853,4682-123267-124574-nav-list,00.html
It is an acrylic enamel, so superior to rustoleum's alkyd enamel, and can also use an acrylic hardener with it to enhance shine, color retention, hardness even more. The Bonus... lots of greens for you.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
[Re: Marq]
#25944
10/01/06 04:03 PM
10/01/06 04:03 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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To all you guys with marine brightside experience: Do you recommend thinning the brightside, or rolling straight from the can?
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
[Re: Marq]
#25946
10/01/06 04:42 PM
10/01/06 04:42 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,379
Rancho Cordova, CA
Exit1965
master
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master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,379
Rancho Cordova, CA
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Marq, you're darn right about the gloss. This brightside has a gloss that really jumps out at you. It looks like a BC/CC job to me (with plenty of orange peel in the CC). It looks WET, and is actually dry. That's NICE! I realize it's not going to keep this gloss forever, but it's already surpassed any rustoleum I've done in terms of gloss. You can see sprayed on (rechargeable can) rustoleum in the engine bay of this pic.  Regarding the texture, it's nothing I have not seen in your paint or Aussiedriver's paint, just typical orange peel that should wetsand out. As for subsequent paint, I am aiming for 1 more coat. I can go over this with 800 grit to get it smooth, then use a bit more mineral spirits and lay down a hopefully smoother coat my next time. It might take 2 more coats. The color has already seemingly covered 100%, so 2 coats total should be enough, but I want there to be enough extra paint to wetsand it down smooth before polishing.. so maybe 2 more medium/thin coats at most.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
[Re: Exit1965]
#25947
10/01/06 05:08 PM
10/01/06 05:08 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Exit: That looks great!! Did you spray that or roll it? Is that pic wet or dry?
Last edited by MontanaMan; 10/01/06 05:11 PM.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
[Re: Exit1965]
#25949
10/01/06 05:44 PM
10/01/06 05:44 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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After reading this thread, I get the following impressions about paint selection:
BEST
- Brightside
- Tremclad
- Rustoleum "Professional"
- Rustoleum "Stops Rust"
WORST
Sound about right?
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25950
10/01/06 07:25 PM
10/01/06 07:25 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Quote:
Quote:
So what you're seeing that the paint itself is polishing well but you haven't levelled the surface of your paint. go ahead and use a harder rubber sanding block and try to stay off the edges of the block. what you can do while wetsanding is to have a squeegee of some sort and just swipe dry a section every now and then. what you should see with the use of a block is spots of dull (matte) finish and spots of shiny finish. so you're abrading away the bumps and brushmarks and NOT abrading the low spots (valleys) of the bumps.
This has been my problem, and I am going to try this solution. Is it possible to use a random-orbital 1/4-cut type sander to do the wetsanding? It has a hard enough pad on it to do the same thing I bet.
Anyone?
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25951
10/01/06 08:14 PM
10/01/06 08:14 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
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The problem of putting a sander to the task of 'wetsanding' is that you are bound to screw up the sander. They just aren't built for getting bits of 'wet' in them... not including the potential for electrocuting yourself if you dance around the car with an electrical cord hooked up to your one side and a hose possibly in the other hand... ( Hose = pure ground )
But even if you were using a spritzer bottle to wet the surface, I would feel sorry for your sander. The odds are that its motor will get ruined or require servicing at the least.
If the situation on that last coat of paint is bad enough that you feel you need to put that extra sanding power to work... maybe the better route to go is this :
Take one step backwards in your painting process and redo things. Sometimes it is less frustrating to just take that last layer off and redo it. With the hope that if you prep for that last layer properly you will get a better result than if you just try to overwork a bad layer ? ? ?
Take the sander and using say a 600 grit.. level the sucker out. Not wet sanding it but just straight sanding to get things level again.
Look on that resurfacing as a fresh start and the paint that survives your sanding will become the base coat for better subsequent coats.
You can hit it then with an 800 or 1000 to fine grain any scratches from the 600.
Once you have it visually rectified to something or some level that is acceptable to you... then put away the sander and get out the hose and a sheet of 1000 grit paper.
With the hose going... start gently wet sanding the surface. At this point you are not having to level things... you are just polishing the surface to see if you can improve on where the 1000 with the orbital sander left off.
It really shouldn't take you very long at this point doing the wet sanding. Give yourself a maximum of only 40 minutes to go over the entire body with this wet sanding stage. That should keep you from overworking any one area too long.
Once you finish the wet sanding stage, grab a bucket of water with some dish detergent in it - not much - just a couple of table spoons of detergent - and wash the car down to get any wet sanding slag off the body part.
Let the car dry. When you are ready to roll your next coat of paint... give it all a wipe down with the tack rag to pick up any dust or hair or bugs that settled on the freshly washed body.
Then go over the car with a lint free cloth that is thinly wetted with mineral spirits - to get any final contaminants off the body.
Let it sit for about 10 or 20 minutes while whatever mineral spirits that were rubbed on the body evaporate.
Proceed to rolling on your next layer of paint at this point.
.
Last edited by Marq; 10/01/06 08:26 PM.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25952
10/01/06 08:24 PM
10/01/06 08:24 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
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Quote:
After reading this thread, I get the following impressions about paint selection:
BEST
- Brightside
- Tremclad
- Rustoleum "Professional"
- Rustoleum "Stops Rust"
WORST
Sound about right?
That matches up to what I believe a tally of the messages in this thread would total.
There is some potential for some of the other marine polyurathanes to come in close to the Brightside... but from my observations of the marine forums where they discuss painting their boats, the Brightside appears to be the most user friendly for application with a roller ( since it is purposely designed for that task ) and its durability and shine gives it an edge over most of the other one stage polyurathanes.
The new contender brought forward just a few messages earlier also has good potential and would probably also do an equal job to the Brightside - with its hidden Ace up the sleeve being that they are offering a wide selection of colors. That selection of Reds is almost enough to make me consider sanding down one layer of my finished project and redoing one or two final layers with that Asian Red over my previous Fire Red ( which I feel is a more orangy red ).
Somewhere into your selection are the FARM and Industrial version of the Tremclad/Rustoleum which would probaly rank somewhere between the Tremclad and the Rustoleum "Professional on your chart.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
[Re: Marq]
#25953
10/01/06 10:18 PM
10/01/06 10:18 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Just ran across this thread yesterday. I'd just like to say thanks to all those that have been experimenting with this method.  I have a beater cadillac that I've been meaning to fix up for some time but I've been putting it off because I've been afraid of the project turning into a money pit. This thread has given me the courage to get going again. Thanks!  If I could offer a suggestion regarding the problems some folks have in keeping dust off their fresh coats I've read on other sites where they suggest grounding the vehicle to prevent it from attracting dust via static charge. A wire bolted to the frame and run to a copper pipe driven into the ground would probably work nicely for this.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25954
10/01/06 10:32 PM
10/01/06 10:32 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Quote:
If I could offer a suggestion regarding the problems some folks have in keeping dust off their fresh coats I've read on other sites where they suggest grounding the vehicle to prevent it from attracting dust via static charge. A wire bolted to the frame and run to a copper pipe driven into the ground would probably work nicely for this.
That's a great idea!! And if there's no grounded copper pipe nearby, you can run the wire to the third "ground" plug of any outlet. Not quite as direct a connection, but should work.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
[Re: kenzo42]
#25957
10/02/06 12:59 AM
10/02/06 12:59 AM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,379
Rancho Cordova, CA
Exit1965
master
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master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,379
Rancho Cordova, CA
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Quote:
Exit, is that Brightside white or off-white?
Marq or anyone else that has experience w/ the Interlux Brightside sample color shade guide. Is the paint an exact match as the guide?
Thanks.
It's hatteras off white. And to answer your question about the color card. I got a nice booklet called something like 'boat painting guide and color card' by interlux. In the middle is a foldout section with the color card. For the hatteras off white AND the off white, bad match to the actual color. At the store, they had a laminated color card (on legal size paper or longer) and that one had a close match to the off white and hatteras off white.
I trusted the nice, new color card in the booklet for the off white.. when i got it home, it was pretty much stark white. I took it back and got hatteras which appeared in the booklet to be more yellowish, and in fact is not as yellow, even slightly less yellow than the canvas white rustoleum.
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