Thats exactly how I found two of my lobes were going round as my lash went wide after the engine got pretty hot.
People tried telling me to go roller when I built this engine but I wanted to keep it simple. Roller technology has come a long way in the last 5 years with so many people putting them in street cars now.
Going back to a flat tappet cam would really save me a TON of money and work and it's not completely off the table yet.
I have considered getting a nitrided cam and EDM lifters then I could keep my oil pump drive,timing chain and cover,pushrods,springs,and retainers.
Those are the ancillary costs of switching to a roller.
So still trying to talk myself into it or out of it

Gus

Gus I run these Hughes roller tip rockers that are 1.6's. But I only went with them because I got them in a trade with my brother and they were like new when I got them. The FT cam I run that Dwayne built for me was perfect and I would have run the 1.5 rockers if that's what I had. That said these Hughes rockers have been flawless as I have run them since 2011 and rarely do I need to adjust them when I check my lash once a year. I like the ductile Isky rockers you run now. Good luck with her Gus what ever rockers you decide on. Ron

What RPM do you turn the engine? If you aren't spinning it past 6200 or so then the hyd roller should work just fine. If you have deep gears and are running it thru the lights at 6800 or higher then you might want to stay with a flat tappet cam. The EDM lifters might solve your problem and/or add the nitrided cam.

Gus, Just curious...... what are the springs pressures you were running with that cam, and what kind of oil?

Any idea of how many miles you put on those parts during those 5 years they were in the motor?

I just got off the phone with Bill Gaterman and he answered a lot of my questions about his lifters. They are making a new run of improved lifters that should be done by the end of next month.
He also confirmed Howard's Cams uses their lifters under the Howard's name.
I shift the car at 6000 and usually trap at 6500. I still use the Edelbrock Performer RPM so I really don't feel it pulling much over 6500. The thing I still don't understand is why do roller lifters with a bronze bushing cost more than roller bearings.

Gus

Did he tell you which part number Howard’s lifter for a BB Mopar application are made by him?

I am running a set of Crower springs 177-486 and I have been running Brad Penn since I broke it in about 5 years ago.
I was hot lapping the car trying to dial in an Edelbrock carb to run in NSS and it went over 260 degrees and thats when I noticed the clattering from the valvetrain. Pulled the valve covers off and confirmed #4 intake and #8 ex lobes going flat with a dial indicator.
Maybe the oil got thin when it got hot

Gus

No but he did say they were the same as the AMC lifters.

Gus

Sooo, 177lbs on the seat, 486lbs open?

That’s way too much for a street strip car if you’re trying to make the cam live...... especially if you’re only turning it 6500.
Those are mid-level street roller pressures.

And, that’s more than what most of the street/strip type hyd roller lifters are rated for.

I read a very scary article about how oil viscosity affects engine life at start-up: 20W50 takes about a week to reach that last tappet...

http://tinyurl.com/ycbdktsg

WOW that was a lot to process The engines I deal with at work with VVTI have a high volume oil pump with large galleys and that 0-20 synthetic oil really does the job.

Still have to sleep on this flat versus hyd.roller cam debate in my head.

Gus

These are the lifters I have, note the spring pressure




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Category : D- Big Block (Low Deck) : Lifters

HUG 6074

BB RACE HYDRAULIC ROLLER LIFTER SET

GOOD FOR UP TO 225# SEAT PRESSURE & 550# OPEN

$919.47

Set of 16 Big Block Hydraulic Race Roller Lifters. These are oil thru lifters and will oil through the pushrods if you need them to.

Suggested maximum spring pressure: 225# on the seat 550# full lift

DO NOT RUN OIL THICKER THAN 5W40 WITH THESE LIFTERS.

.810" roller

* The lifter bores do not need to be bushed to run these lifters.
* DO NOT use these lifters with a flat tappet cam!



Note: These lifters also fit the AMC V8 engines.

These are the less money ones

HUG 5319

BIG BLOCK HYD ROLLER LIFTER SET

GOOD FOR UP TO 160# SEAT PRESSURE & 380# OPEN

$449.95

Set of 16 Big Block Hydraulic STREET Roller Lifters. These are oil thru lifters and will oil through the pushrods if you need them to.

Suggested maximum spring pressure: 160# on the seat 380# full lift.

For race applications with heavier spring pressures use part # 6074

10W30 oil recommended.

.700" roller

* The lifter bores do not need to be bushed to run these lifters.
* DO NOT use these lifters with a flat tappet cam!



Note: These lifters also fit the AMC V8 engines.

If you stay with a solid, and stick with spring loads like you posted....... expect cam life to not be all that great.

I read that article. Love the fact the author pointed out oil doesn't have a "weight" but has a "grade".

One thing I read that I'm not sure of is the author said that synthetic oils don't have VI improvers. I'm not sure that is correct. If I have time tomorrow I may make some phone calls and ask around about that.


Other than that, that was a great article.

On your deal I would of look for between 140 to 170 lbs. on the seats sand from 325 to 375 Lbs. open

Avoid nitriding your cam .
I had mine nitrided brand new at start of 2017 , block split May 2018 . When I pulled cam I was going to reuse it . BUPBOW , surface failed . This was with about 3-5000 street miles and a lot of racing . I was told the heat process softened the core so the surface was hard but brittle. It started to breakup .
got a new cam last week ,not nitrided
will post a pic off my phone if possible

Tex

By the way the lifters were still like new , Howards EDM

Tex

Dwayne had my FT cam nitrided and I use the Comp EDM lifters he sent me with it. Its been flawless as the cam and lifters are still working great after almost 8 years. Ron

Mike Jones posted some stuff about nitriding cams and IIRC he wasn't much for it because as was mentioned it cause the core to soften.

I don't have issues and I don't even run lifters with holes in them. I think idle speed and oil flow have a lot to do with cams going bad after surviving break in.

I see guys letting their stuff idle down to 700-750 and that's just too slow for fast ramp cams IMHO. My cam will most easily idle at 750 but I cringe if it drops below 900. There is just no reason to let the lifter drag over the lobe.

That's what kills the lobes when new if not started correctly. That slow lifter rotation (or none at all) kills them. Prolonged slow idle is not good for them.

Also, the oil pressure and flow is way down at those engine speeds, even if you use a HV pump.