There's a local engine shop (if you can call it that and they do 3rd rate rebuilds. I spoke with one of the builders there and he told me they use Hastings rings for low buck re rings as they will work with up to .012" wear in the bore.
What you are talking about doing has been done for years and should hold you over 'till you are ready to do the proper rebuild

The reason people havent all been telling me to bore it out and buy new pistons and turn it into a 4000 dollar venture is because thats not what im trying to do or asking about. Im trying to put this engine in my drive quality Satellite while I focus on the important things, fixing the little bit of rust, the dent it has, and painting it as well as buying basically a complete interior. The interior in it is decent driver quality and the car is a driver and will always be but everything has a flaw that needs it to be replaced to be perfect.

This engine needs to last two years at the most, about 20000 miles. I could care less if it will only last 20000 miles, im worried more about it running decent during that span. By run decent I dont mean maintenance free. I dont care if it uses some oil or smokes, Im worried only about cranking compression. I know bores have to be true for best performance and a fresh should be true, but you're kidding yourself if you think that an engine cant run if its not. It was running before the way it was, just not optimal. I just want it to run closer to optimal than a 100000-150000 mile engine would.

Im going to spend 100 on a cam and lifter kit, 230 for a ring,bearing, and gasket kit, and 100 for a set of good heads. Figure im spending 500 bucks with spray paint, which is worth it to me for 2 years to have it make 300-350 horsepower, 450 ft lbs of torque, and get out of its own way instead of the overcammed pig of a 273 thats in it now thats lucky if it can crank out anywhere near the factory rated 180 horse. Also, im setting it up for the future by converting everything over for the 727 so when the time is right, I only have to pay for the engine machining and new parts (I will probably just stroke it).

Its been done before, it will be done again. Im just trying to get a feel for how well this re-ring will work. I've given out the "Do it once do it right advice" before, I will again. But its alot easier when its not your car, your engine, and your money and goals, but right now its not what I want to/can do.

I did a rering and torque plate hone on a 110K 360 replaced all bearings etc. The heads cost me 500. The point here the pistons needed replaced etc I spent 150 bucks on the block figured 2 years on the engine in 1990! today ove 1000qtr mile runs and 30K + of street miles with 4.30 or 3.90 gears that car still uses no oil and runs fine. Do what you can afford and enjoy the car I do !

Mine had a pretty good ridge, but I forged ahead and put it together. It ran before, it will run again. I am surprised mine didn't smoke like a freight train before, every pair of oil rings had the gaps lined up Great 1970 QC there, it was a factory engine, never cracked. I did a 318 in '90 for my Barracuda that was UGLY (I'm talkin' a couple pitted cyls ugly) and it ran really good. Slap it together and run it.
Travis..

It depends on how worn the cylinder and pistons are. I have done a few cheap re-ring engines, and the lower mialage engines (not mutch cylinder wear) turned out fine. On the other hand, I did one on a high mialage 318 that I was not going to keep, and it smoked really bad.
How much will it cost for new pistons and machine work to have it done right? maybe an extra $500?