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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
[Re: Marq]
#25878
09/27/06 03:55 AM
09/27/06 03:55 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Hi guys I've had a go at re-painting my Miata. My first attempt didn't hold up to the weather and the gloss black faded really badly. I was using Tremco Metal Armour (an Australian equivalent to Rustoleum) and the paint just wasn't up to the job. So I'm now using the Brightside Gloss Black and I'm really impressed with it even after the first coat. I sanded most of the Metal Armour off the front of the car down to the original red. The Brightside covered up 99% of the red with the first coat. I rolled it 'straight' and it looks so much better than the Metal Armour, that I had to post a couple of pics.    As you can see, there is a lot of orange peel in the boot (where I started with the Brightside), but the front of the car came out almost perfectly. I only used the one roller, instead of the two as Marq suggested. But I found that if I kept going over the panel with the just the weight of the roller in a different direction to the one I painted, then it will still come out nearly perfectly. Thanks Marq for showing us the Brightside alternative!!!! p.s. Sorry for the grainy pics, all I had with me was my camera phone.
Last edited by Aussie Driver; 09/27/06 04:21 AM.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25879
09/27/06 08:09 AM
09/27/06 08:09 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Quote:
Hi guys
I only used the one roller, instead of the two as Marq suggested. But I found that if I kept going over the panel with the just the weight of the roller in a different direction to the one I painted, then it will still come out nearly perfectly.
You didn't use a foam brush to get rid of your bubbles at all? Just the original, painting roller, only in a different direction? This gets rid of all the bubbles? The thing that plagues me isn't the bubbles, nor the orange peel (minor), it is the brush marks that is left behind from the foam brush dragging. Light, heavy, dosen't seem to matter, I still get the brush strokes.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25880
09/27/06 12:13 PM
09/27/06 12:13 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Hey JL, how many coats have you applied? I put the first coat on my Jeep Saturday, then the second last evening. I did not have any problems with brush stroke lines; I wonder if you had the paint cut/diluted the right amount--did you play with that any? Yesterday during my second coat, I tried applying the paint (Brightside Fire Red) at full strength, to hopefully end up with less coats having to be applied. However, maybe due to the drier conditions (low humidity) compared to those during my first coat, the paint dried much quicker and screwed me up on part of the hood. I went back to the thinned (between 5 and 10%) paint, and it worked fine. If I were you, I would maybe just try rolling and not brushing when getting rid of the bubbles, and not use the paint full strength, if you had been doing that.
I am amazed at the shiny gloss this paint leaves. I do have a few minute bubbles in the finish, and I may wetsand them out tonight. I will try another coat tomorrow evening, cut at 5%. I have learned that I need to be real patient with this, allowing plenty of drying/curing time. In the end, I think it will turn out well and be alright.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25881
09/27/06 01:02 PM
09/27/06 01:02 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Hey, one more thing I learned, and I guess it could be summarized in saying be sure to read the product use directions. I had been using various spray paints and primers for my wheels and fender guards and other Jeep stuff. I bought the spray cans of Rusteolum Safety Red, to use in the areas I could not roll the Brightside. I figured I would use it the same way/frequency I had been using other paints. Anyway, I noticed when I sprayed my third coat that some of the areas have little cracks in them. I knew those areas had been prepped and were smooth prior to painting, and so I wondered what the deal was. I went back and read the paint can and it said to apply a second coat either within one hour of the previous coat application or after 48 hours later. Well, my second and third coats had been probably 24 to 36 hours after the first, so I guess the curing of the first coat was not complete and adding more coats messed it up. So I will have to sand those spots out and repaint. I will definitely adhere to the time guidelines on the can in the future...
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25883
09/27/06 08:17 PM
09/27/06 08:17 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Quote:
Quote:
Hi guys
I only used the one roller, instead of the two as Marq suggested. But I found that if I kept going over the panel with the just the weight of the roller in a different direction to the one I painted, then it will still come out nearly perfectly.
You didn't use a foam brush to get rid of your bubbles at all? Just the original, painting roller, only in a different direction? This gets rid of all the bubbles? The thing that plagues me isn't the bubbles, nor the orange peel (minor), it is the brush marks that is left behind from the foam brush dragging. Light, heavy, dosen't seem to matter, I still get the brush strokes.
No brush? I use it undiluted, maybe that is my problem then, what are you cutting yours with? I have like 5 coats on it, I have been wetsanding it pretty far down, to try and get rid of the brush marks, and ended up having to apply more coats than should be neccessary cuz I am not satisfied with the flatness. It is some shiny stuff though, just not as flat as I would like to have it yet. I have diluted it on one of my earlier attempts, and had mixed success with it.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25884
09/27/06 08:19 PM
09/27/06 08:19 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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why is this thread so long??? its unbeliveable.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25885
09/27/06 09:14 PM
09/27/06 09:14 PM
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 36
Spokane, WA USA
Wyl E Coyote
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member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 36
Spokane, WA USA
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Why IS This Post SO LONG...... BECAUSE ITS AWESOME!!!!! Just think about what is being accomplished here.... Most of the folks that have posted on this thread is probably no different than myself or yourself in tired of getting the 4000-6000 dollar price quote to paint your car. Until you can afford that luxury, we are stuck with shops that might do a half way job. Just look into all of the websites dedicated to the horrible jobs done by Maaco and other chain shop. Also just check out your locall BBB on the complaints listed there. I think this thread should go on and on... Thank You to the Founding Fathers of the Thread ... 69Charger and all. I hope that maybe some one would create a website dedicated to this.... I would love to see more posting with pix in progress etc, but promise I will post mine as soon as my project start. Best Wishes to all and KEEP THE PAINT ROLLING... 
Last edited by 69DartGT; 09/27/06 09:29 PM.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25888
09/28/06 07:05 AM
09/28/06 07:05 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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JL--for my first coat, I cut it with odorless mineral spirits, at 10%. That coat rolled on very well on the hood, which is pretty much the only horizontal surface on my Jeep. The sides were a little problematic, as I got a little bit of runs (I may have had too much paint on the roller), so I had to stay with it and keep brushing it until it dried enough not to run. For the second coat, I guess I got a little lazy and impatient and used the Brightside at full strength. That worked well on the sides (it did not run), but not on the hood--it dried too quickly (low humidity probably played a part in that) and I could not do much more than say a one foot square area before it seemed to want to start to orange peel. The bubbles got pretty firm and I had to brush it aggressively. That coat was applied on Tuesday evening; I noticed last night that I have some dried bubbles in the hood surface, so apparently, I did not brush it well. Tonight I will wet sand it.
For my third coat, to be applied Saturday morning, I will change things up a bit. I think I will do the sides (vertical surfaces) first with full strength, still only doing small sections at a time, then cut it 10% with mineral spirits for the hood. That will give me more time to work the hood, and hopefully, not result in any lasting bubbles. Assuming that works, I will probably go with 5% dilution for the succeeding coats. I suspect I will end up doing maybe 6 or 7 coats, as the red color just does not seem to hide or coat real well. It is not a problem, though, as I can do the entire Jeep in 75 or 80 minutes. I will allow at least 24 hours between painting and sanding, then painting again.
Try diluting your paint and see if that helps your situation. Good luck.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
[Re: Wyl E Coyote]
#25889
09/28/06 07:31 AM
09/28/06 07:31 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Largo blue isn't as light as your car is just wanted to point that out... It's light in the sunlight but not that light. At night it's much darker.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25891
09/28/06 08:23 AM
09/28/06 08:23 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Quote:
I only used the one roller, instead of the two as Marq suggested. But I found that if I kept going over the panel with the just the weight of the roller in a different direction to the one I painted, then it will still come out nearly perfectly.
Can you plz explain your 'one roller' technique?
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
[Re: Wyl E Coyote]
#25893
09/28/06 11:44 AM
09/28/06 11:44 AM
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,220
toronto canada
69chargeryeehaa
OP
pro stock
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OP
pro stock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,220
toronto canada
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Quote:
Why IS This Post SO LONG...... BECAUSE ITS AWESOME!!!!! Just think about what is being accomplished here.... Most of the folks that have posted on this thread is probably no different than myself or yourself in tired of getting the 4000-6000 dollar price quote to paint your car. Until you can afford that luxury, we are stuck with shops that might do a half way job. Just look into all of the websites dedicated to the horrible jobs done by Maaco and other chain shop. Also just check out your locall BBB on the complaints listed there.
I think this thread should go on and on... Thank You to the Founding Fathers of the Thread ... 69Charger and all. I hope that maybe some one would create a website dedicated to this.... I would love to see more posting with pix in progress etc, but promise I will post mine as soon as my project start.
Best Wishes to all and KEEP THE PAINT ROLLING...
well put, that's exactly why i thought i'd share this method with you guys    
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
[Re: 69chargeryeehaa]
#25894
09/28/06 02:08 PM
09/28/06 02:08 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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did anyone else have a problem with the gloss black fading due to the weather?
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25895
09/28/06 02:35 PM
09/28/06 02:35 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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yeah im wondering if the gloss black rustoleum will fade like aussies...could it be because he didnt wax it? hrmmm 
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25896
09/28/06 03:57 PM
09/28/06 03:57 PM
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 36
Spokane, WA USA
Wyl E Coyote
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member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 36
Spokane, WA USA
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Thanks again Nova.... BTW NICE JOB !!!!! Well the color is almost like I envision. I am still pretty sure this is the color I will go with, but any if there any others who has done their ride in shades of blue, please let me know. I might have missed it in all of these post as I am attempting to rereading all of the post from the begining at Genesis 1 Verse 1 " In the beginning, there was a car that needed paint job" One more question Nova - Is THAT 2 GALLONS  ? or Quarts?
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
[Re: Wyl E Coyote]
#25897
09/28/06 06:56 PM
09/28/06 06:56 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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2 quarts. I still have about 1/3 of a can left... I did all my jambs with a brush, trunk jam area. I had removed all the side skirts and done them seperately. Keep in mind I have no roof....
We did hype's whole car with just 2 quarts also..
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