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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25858
09/24/06 04:45 PM
09/24/06 04:45 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
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Quote:
But, here is a problem and question for you experienced types. Oh, just for clarification, I have never done any auto painting. But, last night (about 6 hours after rolling on the Brightside), I decided to give the sprayed areas another coat of the spray Rustoleum. While doing that, there was some overlap of the spray onto some of the rolled Brightside. What then happened baffled me--certain of those "overlap" areas got very sort of crinkly, or alligator skin-like; but not all of those areas did this.
So, what may have caused that? !
Ok.. the Brightside was still curing. The skin on the Brightside would appear to be 'dry' but at this point ( 6 hours ) the paint underneath the skin was still evaporating.
When you sprayed the aerosol spray bomb onto some spots of drying Brightside, it would get weaken the Brightside skin and then the paint that went over it would start drying at a faster rate then the still curing Brightside beneath. As the aerosol paint dried and contracted it would pull on the semi dry Brightside skin ( which has a wetter layer between the skin and the body surface ) hence nothing between the Brightside drying skin to hold it in place as the aerosol paint skin dries. In an extreme case, you get the elephant skin... in a mild case you would have probably gotten 'orange peel'.
Thrown into this is the fact that the aerosol uses a different type of solvent as a carrier ( which may also weaken the semi-dried skin of the Brightside.
I don't think the elephant skin would have been so dramatic IF the Brightside had cured for the 18 or 24 hours.
IF you had sprayed even a Brightside or rolled more Brightside over the semi-dried skin of a previous coat of Brightside you would have encountered orange peel probably... with a slight chance of wrinkling.
So the morale of the story... be patient and always be generous in your wait times between coats etc.
Hope this helps explain what happened.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
[Re: Marq]
#25859
09/24/06 06:08 PM
09/24/06 06:08 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Quick question....I've seen several cars that looked great...In your opinion (any of you) is Gloss Black do-able? I mean have any of you seen a Gloss Black roller job that you feel looks good. I tried to search and didn't see any examples, but I could have missed something.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25860
09/24/06 06:57 PM
09/24/06 06:57 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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ok i just signed up for this board because i have some questions. ive been following this for some time and just started to paint a hood as a test piece. im using rustoleum gloss black, and am thinning it down with mineral spirits about 30%. it seems to have a slightly more watery milky consitancy. anyways i prepped my hood with 320, then painted, and im doing thin coats. after two coats i sand with 600, and so far i have... coat 1, coat 2, sand 600, coat 3 coat 4, sand 600, coat 5....coat 5 is drying but i can see the 600 grit scratches. am i doing something wrong. im assuming im thinning the paint too much, either that or putting it on too lightly. what do you guys think? although the paint seems to be rock hard after about 7 hours of dry time, in 50 degree weather... 
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25866
09/24/06 08:31 PM
09/24/06 08:31 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
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Quote:
ok i just signed up for this board because i have some questions. ive been following this for some time and just started to paint a hood as a test piece. im using rustoleum gloss black, and am thinning it down with mineral spirits about 30%. it seems to have a slightly more watery milky consitancy. anyways i prepped my hood with 320, then painted, and im doing thin coats. after two coats i sand with 600, and so far i have... coat 1, coat 2, sand 600, coat 3 coat 4, sand 600, coat 5....coat 5 is drying but i can see the 600 grit scratches. am i doing something wrong. im assuming im thinning the paint too much, either that or putting it on too lightly. what do you guys think? although the paint seems to be rock hard after about 7 hours of dry time, in 50 degree weather...
I think you are following the recipe for success properly...
Are you 'sanding' between second coats or 'wet sanding' between second coats ?
From the sounds of the 600 grit scratches it almost sounds like you are dry sanding ? If it is not a dry sanding problem... then maybe you are putting a little too much elbow grease into the 'wet sanding' ?
What type of sandpaper are you using ? In the 600 range I found the Norton's 3X sandpaper to be nicely agressive and long lasting. The 3M 600 grit is fairly decent for wet sanding.
If all else fails you might step things up to the 800 or 1000 grit for wet sanding. It is sufficiently agressive to remove any high spots and is fine enough grit that it should not leave any outrageous scratch marks ( nothing that the later 1500 and 2000 grit can't remove ).
In theory the thin layers you are adding should be able to fill in a 600 grit scratch.
IF at this moment you are looking at a body panel that bears 600 grit scratches you have one of two ways to go about getting things back on an even keel...
a ) take a 1000 grit sand paper and level the entire surface down to where the 600 grit scratches are no longer an issue. Then add your next two layers as usual.... followed by the wet sanding with the 1000 grit... or
b ) You could go ahead and lay three coats onto the 600 scratched surface. Hopefully the first coat would fill in the 600 grit scratches. By the second coat the 600 grit scratches should be history. And with the third coat your 1000 grit wet sanding should be able to level any high points that happened during this 3 coat stage.
My personal preference would be option B - as it takes you ahead three coats... whereas the option A takes you back one or two coats.
Hope this helps.
.
Last edited by Marq; 09/24/06 08:34 PM.
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hanks
[Re: Marq]
#25868
09/25/06 03:09 AM
09/25/06 03:09 AM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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hey thanks marq, i think option b sounds better, i might even thicken the paint up a bit because after a few hours its pretty rock hard, i cant put dents in it or nething, so maybe my coats have been a little too thin..? well c, ill be sure to work on it in the morning. 
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25870
09/25/06 09:16 AM
09/25/06 09:16 AM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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i use 1,000 grit inbetween 2 coats and 2,000 for the final wetsanding, and i use gloss black with a hvlp gun. another thing i found is if you paint the car on the driveway, the paint will dry in 1 hour and then can repaint after that. i wish i found that out 3 months ago....... 
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25871
09/25/06 11:07 AM
09/25/06 11:07 AM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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for those who are new and/or still have question, you can also visit http://cars.500megs.info/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13 for more tips. it should work with most colors.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25873
09/25/06 12:31 PM
09/25/06 12:31 PM
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 37
venice, ca
admactanium
member
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member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 37
venice, ca
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Quote:
Quote:
i bought an orange paint called "xo rust" that is gloss orange. it seems to be basically the same thing as rustoleum. nice shade of orange too.
Hmmm... where did you pick it up, and is it available in spray as well?
i found it at my local hardware store in venice. but i think venice hardware is a truevalue hardware store. so that might mean they carry it in other hardware stores. i think b&b hardware in culver city had it as well when i was in there a while ago.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
[Re: admactanium]
#25874
09/25/06 04:57 PM
09/25/06 04:57 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Exit... What happened? Last I saw your paint was rock hard and you were getting ready to sand/buff. Now you can slice it with your finger nail? What did I miss?
Jason
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25875
09/25/06 05:10 PM
09/25/06 05:10 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,379
Rancho Cordova, CA
Exit1965
master
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master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,379
Rancho Cordova, CA
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Quote:
Exit... What happened? Last I saw your paint was rock hard and you were getting ready to sand/buff. Now you can slice it with your finger nail? What did I miss?
Jason
It depends how hard I push my nail into it as to how rock hard it seems. Not that a car finish will normally have a fingernail slicing against it. My dog ate my last polisher, as soon as I get a new one I'll polish it up and see if the fingernail sliceability is any indicator of shineability.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
[Re: 69DartGT]
#25877
09/26/06 09:23 PM
09/26/06 09:23 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
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Quote:
Okay my six quarts of red brightside are here, I have a question what is done in those area;s where the roller can't reach do I use a foam brush? and if so are there different grades of those?
Yeah at Walmart they sell a foam brush pack with about 24 brushes in it... of three different sizes... 1" 2" and a 3". I think Home Depot may also sell those foam packs.
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