my opinion that is a soft/slower ramp . Great for endurance and easy on valve train

I have a solid flat tappet 258@050 - 293 advertised and that is an easy ramp in my 440 .

Tex

...In a Chevy 350. They forgot to mention that.

Pretty much done around 5500-5800 in a 440.

Just saying

Look up the equivalent cam for a 350, what does it say for rpm range?

Look up the equivalent (rocker ratio is higher, lift number will be higher) for a 302 Ford Windsor. Same rpm range?

Their marketing is trying to tell you a XXX degree cam has exactly the same characteristics regardless of CID. Do you believe it?

With all of the variables in play and this seems to be your first build, you’d do a lot worse than calling or visting a local mopar shop. Todd marsh shouldn’t be all that far from you.

More good advice!!!

Exactly what i was thinking before i read the quote. I have all the tools for proper engine assembly, but even after forty years of putting my own motors together in a lot of cases I find it smart to go to a pro for the right parts combo for best results. My last build was a 408 smallblock, and i sought help for that one, buying the complete valvetrain from someone that knows my combo like the back of his hand. I also went with his combo of carb,intake,heads. End result? 504 hp out of 408 cubes, at 5700 rpm on pump 93. Valvetrain is stable to 6500 rpm, i have already pushed it far enough to verify that.

Apparently, my other engine thread was taken down, after I tried bringing it back up. So I guess I'll ask the last question I had asked. Would dished pistons (for compression) have any negative effect on streetability? Without them I would have to get the heads from 78 to 84 cc, and still have too much compression. On the 500" kit they offer -24 dished pistons, and it should get the compression to around 10.05. This compression should be perfectly fine and not really affect performance, correct?

The dish in the piston is simply another way to adjust the CR.

I think you should find a book or three about basic 4-stroke engine building and operation. You're back to asking questions that really show your lack of knowledge on the basics.

I second the motion!

Third.
Motion carried.

He's asking questions at least, which is good. Can't fault him for that!

A street car on pump gas you won't want 12:1 compression. You need to build a package of parts. Try around 10.5:1? compression with aluminum heads that match your needs and a cam that will work with all you have as best you can. Read as much as possible. Even sites like 440 Source are helpful.

The OP needs to buy Andy's book and several more and read them very close before doing anything else.

OP, I promise you the return on investment is well worth it. It will steepen up your learning curve and save you time and money in the long run.

440 source sells books on building the big block mopar, that would also be a big help. Buy one and read front to back.

http://www.440source.com

http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/index.php

According to another post on here the Mopar books are 50% off this time of year.

https://www.cartechbooks.com/mopar-jeep-amc.html

In addition to both Finkbeiner and Senatore's books I would also recommend SA design book the step by step guide to engine blueprinting.

Had a good discussion online recently with Chuck (he asked if I thought an updated book was needed).

What's more important:
1. To know what to do, or
2. To know why?

1. has already been answered several times
2. will take 20 years

I havent read any " other" posts, just this one, but one thing clearly comes to mind. You would best be advised, to go speak with a competent engine builder in your area, and sit down, one on one, and develop a PLAN, based on his EXPERIENCE as a builder. Your questions are all over the place, and your trying to justify building the engine based on magazine articles, internet builds and so forth. I understand, its easy to ask questions on the forums, internet and such, but all you will do, if your not experienced in building an engine ( in this case, you admitted you dont know anything about strokers) is end up with a bad build your not happy with, and wasted a lot of time and money. Find someone to work with, and all of this will go away, and you'll be happy with a engine you can drive, race, and enjoy. Most people go off center, when they arent realistic with both their needs, and reality and budgets.. A good builder can get you on course there. Good luck with the project.

I appreciate everyone's help, and I will continue to read and learn more (don't we all?), but I think I do at least understand the basics, dished pistons are just rarely talked about. I, of course, will be talking to my engine builder. Its not like I will throw a list of parts at him and call it done. From what I hear my current build (I haven't updated it yet) is within everyone's suggestions, so here we go:
500" stroker kit, -24 dished pistons (should be slightly above 10:1 CR), around .040 quench
Bare Trickflow 240, with their valves, springs will be whatever is recommended for the cam
Cam around 240@.050, around .550 lift
Most likely Harland Sharp rocker arms, 1.5 ratio
Holley SD intake
Either 870 CFM Street Avenger, or similar CFM double pumper
440 Source stroker windage tray, oil pan, and oil pickup
1 3/4" Hedman Headers (I would go 1 7/8" but that would cause clearance issues with the pitman arm)
Edelbrock RPM fuel pump? (max pressure is 6 lbs, though)

A dished piston is a means to an end. Just like a dome.

When you start building engines where you need to pick the fly poop out of the pepper, then you worry about the dome/dish/combustion chamber.

You might want to consider using a deep reverse dome piston with 24.0 CC instead of a shallow full dish piston with 24.0 CC.
The reason being is to try and keep some quinch in the combustion chambers

Thats what I was thinking, and I actually emailed 440 source about whether or not theyre dish or reverse dome, and I will ask if theres a way to get reverse dome with their kit.