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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25819
09/21/06 04:38 PM
09/21/06 04:38 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
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Quote:
Okay, I am in the same "boat" as bootgras--I got my eBay Brightside Red this week and am fired up about painting my Jeep this weekend (weather permitting, that is; there is a 50% chance of rain here and I know it will be humid, so I am crossing my fingers that I can do it).
Be sure to seriously shake up those eBay cans of paint to ensure that they haven't settled. I keep imagining these pallets of cans sitting in a warehouse up to their 'normal shelf life' and the pigment solids in the cans settling. I find a bent coat hanger on the end of my drill makes a great mixer and I don't mind doing it for ten or twelve minutes. If done by hand we tend to get lazy and under stir it.
Quote:
Anyway, I cannot find the "regular" mineral spirits--Wally World, Home Depot, Lowe's only have the odorless kind.
So, my question for Marq, or others is, what would be best for me to thin the Brightside with--odorless mineral spirits, paint thinner (which says it is made with mineral spirits, how much though, I don't know), or MEK? I have lacquer thinner and acetone, but if I recall, neither of those is suitable.
If you are in the enviromentally over-friendly California you might have a problem finding the regular mineral spirits. But in Canada you should be able to hunt down the 'regular' mineral spirits at one of the places you mentioned... even Canadian Tire. If all else fails maybe at a local paint store ( Sherwin Williams, Paint your World, etc ).
In case your best detective efforts fail...make use of the odorless mineral spirits and keep in mind that it is odorless because it evaporates slower. Hence drying times between coats needs to be extended.
Ideally it would be best if you could land your hands on some of the Interlux 'Brushing Liquid'. The reason I say that is this... the eBay paint is a possible variable in the results. By using the Interlux 'Brushing Liquid' you remove another variable in the finished paint job. But I 'believe' from my own experience that either type of the mineral spirits will do the job equally well.
I would not play around with the 'paint thinner' that promises that it has 'some mineral spirits'. The results would be unpredictable and I have not read of anyone here having varied that far away from the 'recipe'.
As for acetone... it would work. It's biggest downside is that it evaporates very rapidly. Hence things dry possibly faster than you really want them. It may start setting up while you are half-way through a panel. And you don't want that. You want enough time with the panel to 'work it'. Since it evaoporates so quickly it gives off a HUGE amount of wicked vapors. You would need superior ventilation... and I might even think an oxygen tank to protect your lungs. But the hallucinations you might experience from getting doped up on acetone fumes might make things fun. Just don't light matches or run any electrical equipment in a room with a high concentraion of acetone fumes.
I don't know enough about lacquer thinner... but I suspect my comments about acetone apply similarly. The only difference is that acetone might work and the lacquer thinner may not work.
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Last edited by Marq; 09/21/06 04:43 PM.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
[Re: 69DartGT]
#25820
09/21/06 04:52 PM
09/21/06 04:52 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,377
Rancho Cordova, CA
Exit1965
master
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master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,377
Rancho Cordova, CA
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Quote:
Keeping with the lets don't read all 60 plus pages what type/nap roller should I use with Brightside?
I had the same question, I hope the fine foam ones we are using with rustoleum will work, since I have a few left.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
[Re: admactanium]
#25821
09/21/06 06:41 PM
09/21/06 06:41 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Quote:
i bought an orange paint called "xo rust" that is gloss orange. it seems to be basically the same thing as rustoleum. nice shade of orange too.
Hmmm... where did you pick it up, and is it available in spray as well?
This is my ideal scenario so I can spray bomb the hard to reach places and roll the rest and have a true color match.
I may have found a rustoleum, but would have to order it. It is their Farm and Implement Enamel. It is a "stops rust" too, but designed to be used on farm equipment. They have it in Allis Chalmers orange which isn't too bad.
Only thing is I have not found verifiable evidence it is offered in a spray. A couple places say the industrial orange is the same color... so my quest is ongoing...
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
[Re: Marq]
#25822
09/21/06 06:44 PM
09/21/06 06:44 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Quote:
If you are in the enviromentally over-friendly California you might have a problem finding the regular mineral spirits.
Go to your local Ace hardware in California. I had trouble finding regular mineral spirits until I hit ACE... it is "the Place" afterall.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
[Re: Exit1965]
#25823
09/21/06 06:51 PM
09/21/06 06:51 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Rollers with brightside questions:
The Rusto Rollers were the same ones that that hype and I used with our brightside. The white ultra fine ones from Home depot. I bought a contractors pack. I think he did too.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
[Re: Exit1965]
#25824
09/21/06 07:30 PM
09/21/06 07:30 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
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Quote:
Quote:
Keeping with the lets don't read all 60 plus pages what type/nap roller should I use with Brightside?
I had the same question, I hope the fine foam ones we are using with rustoleum will work, since I have a few left.
You should be using the 4" high density foam rollers... These are different then the 'cheapo' 4" foam rollers from the dollar store.
The high density foam rollers have smaller air holes in them. The cheapo foam rollers problem is that they generate additional bubbles when rolling because of the large air pockets in the foam.
I tried using the 6" high density foam rollers... but found that they didn't apply as evenly or give you as much control when rolling.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25825
09/21/06 07:37 PM
09/21/06 07:37 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Rustoleum's web site still shows the Professional Safety Orange in gallon cans. http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=48&SBL=1Web site for Stops Rust shows the Gloss Orange. http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=18&SBL=1Might email them to see why you cannot find it in the stores. I am using the Hunter Green on my fiber glass dune buggy. Still not sure how this paint job will turn out. Plan to put on one more coat next week. Results will be posted one of these days.
Last edited by Frontloader; 09/21/06 07:42 PM.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25826
09/21/06 08:24 PM
09/21/06 08:24 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Marq, you said that odorless mineral spirits will make for a longer drying time and that I would need to wait about 24 hours between coats. How long would I have to wait if I got the non-odorless mineral spirits, or don't thin it at all? Thanks.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25828
09/21/06 10:01 PM
09/21/06 10:01 PM
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 28
georgia
darenrt
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member
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Posts: 28
georgia
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Cyber I looked on Grainger Industrial supply and they show 1 gallon cans of safty orange at $50+ bucks though. Is this the kind of color your looking for? they can ship anywhere and have many stores in industrial areas. 
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
[Re: darenrt]
#25829
09/22/06 01:38 AM
09/22/06 01:38 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Quote:
Cyber I looked on Grainger Industrial supply and they show 1 gallon cans of safty orange at $50+ bucks though.
Is this the kind of color your looking for?
they can ship anywhere and have many stores in industrial areas.
Thanks for all the help in trying to track down orange guys, it is really appreciated.
Frontloader, I know that from the Rustoleum website it says the gloss orange is available, but no stores are able to order it in any capacity except spray cans. That stops rust page says it is just available, not that it is specifically available in a brush on.
In regards to safety orange, maybe I can track that down locally. I am not sure on the color however... Thanks for the tip on Grainger though.
Right now I am still in limbo, and will continue to research my "orange".
I would say right now I am leaning towards the Allis Chalmers orange as I know what it looks like, compared to just "safety orange".
We shall see... I will let you know what happens.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25830
09/22/06 06:17 AM
09/22/06 06:17 AM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
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Quote:
Marq, you said that odorless mineral spirits will make for a longer drying time and that I would need to wait about 24 hours between coats. How long would I have to wait if I got the non-odorless mineral spirits, or don't thin it at all? Thanks.
If you used the paint straight out of the can ( which you can do... since it is fairly wet )... the drying time ( under pleasant temperature and non-humid conditions ) is about 8 to 12 hours.
If you use the regular mineral spirits it may take 16 to 18 hours of drying time.
The odorless mineral spirit may take up to 25 hours.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
[Re: Marq]
#25831
09/22/06 07:01 AM
09/22/06 07:01 AM
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 58
MD, USA
v8mirage
member
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member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 58
MD, USA
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I have been using Odorless Mineral spirits and have on a couple occasions done 2 coats in a day, with out any problems. But usually end up only doing 1 coat per day. The trick I think is to NOT get it too thin.
Gerbs
Last edited by v8mirage; 09/22/06 07:03 AM.
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mineral spirits in California
#25833
09/22/06 01:15 PM
09/22/06 01:15 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
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I found 100% mineral spirits at Kelley paint. San Jose, Ca. Also I was pressure washing the other day and blasted my test piece. Close and with the 2400 psi spray as tight as I could get it. After a minute or so I got one small piece off to the side to lift. That was it. I was suprised. This was Stops Rust with paint thinner labled "with mineral spirits". Now I am using Professional and 100% mineral spirits. My car has a great base on it now. I just sanded it smooth and it is ready for the final polish coat. But, this weekend is getting my Bronco ready for a Rubicon trip next weekend. So no paint work for a few weeks.
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Re: mineral spirits in California
#25834
09/22/06 01:16 PM
09/22/06 01:16 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
[Re: Marq]
#25836
09/22/06 01:58 PM
09/22/06 01:58 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,377
Rancho Cordova, CA
Exit1965
master
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master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,377
Rancho Cordova, CA
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Marq- forgive me if you mentioned it before, but have you investigated the 2 part Interlux paint, Perfection? It hardens chemically, and can be rolled and tipped on just like brightside. But is more durable and probably shines up like a hardened single stage car paint. Price isn't much different, and it seems like it could be safe to roll it on, at least according to this which emphasizes that measures need to be taken if spraying. http://www.pyacht.net/cgi-local/SoftCart...n.htm?E+scstoreBy the way, I took my fingernail to the sprayed on rustoleum in my door jambs, and if I press hard enough it comes off. So I'm looking for something HARD at this point if I am going to repaint it. The other question is if a hardened 2 part poly would pull up the rustoleum underneath it. edit: found this on a Sailing forum: http://daysailer.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6287&sid=2a55365ad05516bb8bff5973338e3b6fA discussion of brightside and then rustoleum (of all things!) on boats. Heck, I don't know what to do. I'll probably end up moving onto the much needed mechanical work, and see how tough the rustoleum is in a couple months where I sprayed. If it's hard I can spray the whole car, if not I can revisit the brightside or Perfection idea.
Last edited by Exit1965; 09/22/06 03:50 PM.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
[Re: Exit1965]
#25837
09/22/06 04:40 PM
09/22/06 04:40 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
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The literature on the brightside stuff mentions using the "rolling and tipping" method for application. Is this something that has been tried with rustoluem on car applications? Is the rustoluem to thick to do that with?
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