Here is a picture of my Road Runners floor pan, and what is needed to fit a Jerico trans with LONG shifter. You will pretty much need to do the same to fit a Hurst V gate.

The Hurst "Ram Rod" and "Super Shifter" for a B body both use the same "L" bracket and longer rods. This requires cutting a slot about 2" wide in the back of the tunnel. No other cutting is required but I have seen some real hack jobs. Now you have to figure what to cover all that mechanism with. Back in the day, Hurst made these just for that purpose and provided a template to match the floor lines.

NOTE: the large hole in the floor as seen in the above post is not necessary with an a833 and these shifters. Also, the original hole in the top of the tunnel is still required. In 1974 these were $80. through a speed shop. I still have a couple and have tossed around reproducing them but haven't got around to it yet.

I should mention this is a '69 B body.

I ran a Hurst V gate in my GTX for years, loved it, no more missed 3rd gear shifts. Now, with my GTX restored, including repairing the hole I cut in the floor pan and reinstalling the factory shifter and console, I remember why I changed to the V gate...jeez this factory shifter sucks, already tired of hitting my knuckles on the dash trying to grab 3rd

Then you need to do what I did, to my Dads Super Bee. I installed a new Comp Plus mechanism, and then made my own shift Rods with heim joints. It cuts the throw down by half.

Another view.

My brain is not grasping how that reduces the throw by 50%...the levers on the trans are still required to move the same amount fore and aft...is the difference in the shifter?

And how does all that clear the tunnel and all the crap in the way down there?

Tolerance stack. When you see how much slop the stock style parts have, and the non positive stop, the shift lever multiplies that slop. Trust me, it's a night and day difference.

Everything fits the stock tunnel. No way I'd ever go back to stock stuff.

What are you using for a shift lever? Of course I'm using the stock lever that comes over and up towards the driver's thigh...lol...looks like this

Using the exact same shifter handle.

50% is a lot of "tolerance stack" !!! I suspect the majority of that 50% is from longer levers on the shifter mechanism.

What size tubing is that? I may give that a shot if you got it in there without hacking stuff out.

The biggest PITA will be buying a left handed tap, and that's a phone call to MDS or whoever I buy that crap from.

X2 if those tubes help that significantly I'd be down to build a set also.

[quote=madscientist
What size tubing is that? I may give that a shot if you got it in there without hacking stuff out.

The biggest PITA will be buying a left handed tap, and that's a phone call to MDS or whoever I buy that crap from. [/quote]

1/2" tubing. I just used RH threads. Set it on the bench, and forget about it. IF I needed to make an adjustment, just loosen up one side of it, and turn it a turn or so, but it has been rock steady since being installed. I just bought heim joints on eBay, and went from there.

1/2" tubing. I just used RH threads. Set it on the bench, and forget about it. IF I needed to make an adjustment, just loosen up one side of it, and turn it a turn or so, but it has been rock steady since being installed. I just bought heim joints on eBay, and went from there. [/quote]


Cool. So I'm ASSuming that you used 3/8x3/8 hiem joints??? I already have enough LH taps that I'll make mine LH/RH and call it good.

That is correct.

My 2 cents-

1) V gates are kind of cool in a Fonzi way however not necessary for full throttle, clutch assisted gear changes in a race prepped a-833. Pro-shift, face-plate, whatever.

2) The thing that is missing from the Hurst Comp plus is a reverse lockout. Like most other things these days all of the hardware/linkage is cheesy. If yours doesn't have them you need the for/aft limited bolts.

3) IF I was going to cut my mint factory 4-speed tunnel (I hacked the hell out out of mine) I'd be looking at a Long shifter instead of a Hurst. I never looked into them for a long time and it's literally night and day IMO. As Jeff said go with the turbing or at least 7/16" solid steel rod.

OR

IF I was going to leave the factory 4-speed hump I'd call Passon and see if he has any parts to convert a new comp plus shifter to a reverse lockout. He was able to hook me up with one a few years back.


4) IF you are going to nitrous and a manual trans I'd start a thread on it, there are many ways to skin that cat.

The Hurst "Super Shifter" is a an H pattern shifter with reverse lockout. Although mine is on the L bracket and has longer rods that requires cutting the tunnel I see no reason it can't be bolted to the trans like a stock shifter and use shorter rods.



Using all RH threads you're "lucky" if you get the adjustment bang on (but close is probably good enough). With LH and RH threads the adjustment is infinite whereas with only RH threads adjustment is limited to the width of a thread

May as well use aluminum tubing while you're at it - or aluminum hex rod.

The Super Shifter does not have a reverse lockout. The Super Shifter does have a reverse lockout.