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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
[Re: Exit1965]
#25799
09/20/06 05:41 PM
09/20/06 05:41 PM
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 37
venice, ca
admactanium
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member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 37
venice, ca
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Quote:
Is there an automotive paint that doesn't contain isocyanates?
there is a water-based paint system called autoaircolors with some awesome color selections. the main problem with it is that it still has to be cleared with 2k clear. that's why i stopped painting my track bike with AAC paints. i didn't want to shoot the isocyanate clear coat. although there's supposed to be a decent clear coat in a can called lustrecoat. it's iso free and supposedly gasoline resistant. but i doubt you'd want to buy a ton of that to clear your whole car.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
[Re: admactanium]
#25800
09/21/06 12:04 AM
09/21/06 12:04 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Ok, I'm hitting my car with brightside fire red this weekend, and rather than dig through this mountain of posts I figure I'll just ask the following:
1. How much should I thin the paint? Odorless Mineral Spirits?
2. What finishing work should I do between every other coat? Just wetsand or wetsand+rubbing compound? After my final coat, should I wetsand+rubbing+polishing+wax?
3. How many hours should I wait between coats?
I know this stuff has been posted before, but this thread is huge =D. Thanks!
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25801
09/21/06 07:07 AM
09/21/06 07:07 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Okay, I am in the same "boat" as bootgras--I got my eBay Brightside Red this week and am fired up about painting my Jeep this weekend (weather permitting, that is; there is a 50% chance of rain here and I know it will be humid, so I am crossing my fingers that I can do it).
Anyway, I cannot find the "regular" mineral spirits--Wally World, Home Depot, Lowe's only have the odorless kind.
So, my question for Marq, or others is, what would be best for me to thin the Brightside with--odorless mineral spirits, paint thinner (which says it is made with mineral spirits, how much though, I don't know), or MEK? I have lacquer thinner and acetone, but if I recall, neither of those is suitable.
Thanks for all the input at this point and in advance for your recommendations!
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25802
09/21/06 07:36 AM
09/21/06 07:36 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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bootgras and crusader:
I'm not sure you really have to thin the brightside. Some of the colors are thin as they are. I did my car in brightside largo blue without thinning. We also did hype's (see his post above) without thinning black.
My car the paint was the right thickness but it dried to fast in the heat. When I rerolled some sections when it was cooler outside it was fine.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25803
09/21/06 09:13 AM
09/21/06 09:13 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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For Hype and Nova--I may just try applying the Brightside (Fire Red) without using any solvent for thinning. But I wanted to ask you guys, did you also do your painting in low humidity conditions? Do you know what the humidity percentages were when you did it? We have a pretty good chance of rain this weekend, so I suppose it will be pretty humid. I really want to get started, though. Could I apply a coat on Saturday and another on Sunday, regardless of the weather conditions, and have no adverse affects, as long as they were not the final coat? Seems to me I had read in the thread that the key is applying the final coat in cool, low humidity conditions. What do you guys think?
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25805
09/21/06 11:53 AM
09/21/06 11:53 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Crusader: The humidty was super high when I did it on my car. It was very hot and close to 100% humidity (it mise well have been raining!), I was sweaty. I'm sure there was sweat that dripped into the paint because of it.. The paint dried really fast (it was tacky after being on the car about a minute). At that point it became compeltely unworkable. I think thats why my final coat wasn't as glossy. I actually rolled my final coat outside in the heat (on a less humid day). Then rolled the car back in the garage to dry. My garage is fairly dry. The paint came out fine. It's not horrible or anything. So I think it's really the top most coat that counts. Hype however (and he can comment himself) had a pretty dirty garage (no offense it was free I understand).. that didn't seal to the outside elements at all... The fist coat I was there when we put it on and it was fairly cool and not too humid. He mentioned painting then taking it out in the rain after a couple times before he put his last coat on. I wasn't around for the other coats, but from what I hear it looks very nice. Some really crappy pictures from the first coat oh hype's 240: http://www.novaslp.net/pics/v/NewYorkBuffalo/JonsCar/Finished version of mine (note: not sanded or polished): http://www.novaslp.net/pics/v/newcar2/paint/img_0440.jpg.html
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25806
09/21/06 12:06 PM
09/21/06 12:06 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,379
Rancho Cordova, CA
Exit1965
master
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master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,379
Rancho Cordova, CA
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Quote:
Well I rolled a medium coat of Black using Blue Marine Poly Paint. Some panels came out really weell, others have roller ridges and peel. I am blocking the whole car so this coat is acting as a primer.
How is the hardness of this Blue Water Marine paint? The shine certainly looks good.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25807
09/21/06 12:07 PM
09/21/06 12:07 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Well I find myself at an impasse... I am just about done with refining the body work on my jeep. I had to do quite a bit of sanding because of deteriorated clear coat, and the "ridge" from clear coat to base coat that had to be smoothed out, along with a number of other issues.
The dilemma is that I really wanted to paint it gloss orange, but after some research Rustoleum does not sell the gloss orange in a brush-on, only is aeresol form.
I tried safety red, but it is not a color I am fond of at all.
I just felt the need to vent, as my wife thinks I am crazy for all of the work I have put into this (not to mention that i want to brush rustoleum on top of it now), and now I cannot get the color that I have had my heart set on. :frustrated:
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25809
09/21/06 12:58 PM
09/21/06 12:58 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Nova--your car looks awesome, I love that color.
I think I have decided to thin the Brightside, probably just go with the percentages that Marq suggested in his procedure on p.26. I think I will use paint thinner for cutting it. Reason being, I did some research on various substances (mineral spirits, paint thinner, MEK, Fire Red Brightside, and their 333 Brushing Liquid), primarily focusing on their MSDS to see what chemical constituents they have. I learned that paint thinner and mineral spirits are virtually the same thing, mainly Stoddard Solvent. Interestingly, the paint has no MEK (I was originally going to use that) in it, nor does the Brushing Liquid, which is only kerosene and solvent naptha. The paint does have Stoddard Solvent in it, up to 25%. So, I will probably just use paint thinner, which I have on hand. Seems that the purpose of adding the solvent is to lower the overall volatility of the paint mixture, giving you more time to work it. If I am going to wait a full day between coats, I figure the thinner should work just fine.
If anyone has experience or knowledge that would contrast with what I am planning, please, chime in.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
[Re: Exit1965]
#25811
09/21/06 01:53 PM
09/21/06 01:53 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Quote:
Here are the colors that Rustoleum is available in. There is an orange, is that the one that is available only in spray?
Rustoleum Colors
Yes, that "gloss orange- 214084" is only available in spray. Orchard Supply Hardware, Home Depot, and the Do It Center all said the same thing.
As last resort I tried a locally owned hardware store where I go, and they called in front of me and were told that they only have it available in spray form.
Quote:
Cyber- I could swear I've seen orange in quarts, and maybe safety orange in gallons. You tried the usual suspects Home depot and lowes?
If not, I bet brightside makes a nice orange you can get. So does Pettit, they have a product called easypoxy which is similar to brightside.
There is a marine store near me that carries brightside and easypoxy.. I'm planning to stop in and see what they have.
Exit, I thought I had seen it too... I thought I had seen safety orange too... I don't know if maybe they discontinued these colors fairly recently? At my home depot they had some tintable stops rust, but only one quart, so maybe we did see orange before, but it was the last of their stock?
I checked brightside and they don't really have an orange that I found. Plus the cheapest marine store around here wanted $37 a quart, and with my Jeep Cherokee I figure I am going to need a good 3 quarts at minimum (doing door jambs, underneath hood, inner hatch, etc.)
So the marine paint kind of eliminates this "budget" paint if they run ~35 a quart.
LMK though if you see any nice orange though when you hit your marine store.
Any Canadian fellows want to ship some orange to me! 
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25812
09/21/06 02:29 PM
09/21/06 02:29 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
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Quote:
What did you use to thin your Brightside applications (mineral spirits or someting else)?
I used the 'official' Interlux paint brushing liquid at just enough ratio to wet the paint so that it was thinner.
However, I also did one coat using Mineral spirits because I had used up the official 'brushing liquid'.. It seemed to work just as well as the official Interlux paint brushing liquid. No difference...
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25813
09/21/06 02:29 PM
09/21/06 02:29 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
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Quote:
Nova--your car looks awesome, I love that color.
Thanks. It looks like a good color in the picture. But it's much lighter in real life. The can looked good but it was a small swatch. It's best descibed as smurf blue. As such I bought some cans of brightside sapphire blue to redo the car with (it's supposedly darker). I just havn't gotten around to it yet. That is why I have not sanded and polished the car yet..
Good luck with yours!
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Re: Another first
#25815
09/21/06 02:40 PM
09/21/06 02:40 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
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Quote:
Regarding the advice that you should not expose the final coat to any rain for a week, why is this?
With some of the Rustoleum/Tremclad paint jobs and that Australian equivalent to these anti-rust paints, some of the guys noticed that rain drops which dried on the curing paint left whitish artifacts in or on the paint. The discussion at the time was that the whitish artifacts might have been some kind of reaction between the h20 and gas that was evaporating from the paint as it dried.
On the Brightside paint, I also noticed that fresh paint would also show these whitish artifacts - but not to the degree that the other paints were having. With Brightside they could be rubbed out fairly easily. So it was basically a non-issue with the Brightside.
Quote:
Letting it set for 24 hours makes sense, but Brightside dries hard very quickly (IIRC Interlux quotes like 12 hour recoat times, or less). I've also heard that you shouldnt sand or polish the top coat for a week or so as well, is this true of Brightside as well?
When you are doing the wet sanding, you can proceed with that after 24 hours of the last application of paint. That is sufficient drying time for the Brightside as you are wetsanding.
When you reach the final coat of paint and are satisfied that you have good coverage and appearance, I believe that you should wait one, two, three or four weeks before doing the final wetsand, compounding, polishing and waxing. This ensures the paint is at a very good level of curing and that any gases trying to evaporate will have pretty well vented themselves. If you slap the wax on too soon it seals the surface and may trap some of the evaporating vapors - which may result in the waxing discoloring or losing its shine etc.
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
[Re: Exit1965]
#25816
09/21/06 03:15 PM
09/21/06 03:15 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
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Quote:
I could always use a roller and put a thicker mixture on, say one coat, but I think it will be easier and funner to spray it.
Well that is the conclusion I came to at the end of the project. Although I was pleased with the results from the roller/Brightside, I believe that I might have had even better results if I had sprayed. But I will never know for sure until I get that opportunity...
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Re: Paint Type Summary Request
#25817
09/21/06 03:24 PM
09/21/06 03:24 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
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Quote:
Ok, I'm hitting my car with brightside fire red this weekend, and rather than dig through this mountain of posts I figure I'll just ask the following:
1. How much should I thin the paint? Odorless Mineral Spirits?
They say that 10% is the maximum point of thinning and that you shouldn't go past that. Using odorless mineral spirits will take longer to dry between each coat. The reason it is odorless is that it evaporates sloooower.
Quote:
2. What finishing work should I do between every other coat? Just wetsand or wetsand+rubbing compound? After my final coat, should I wetsand+rubbing+polishing+wax?
Between every second coat just wetsand. At your final coat you do the wetsand+rubbing+polishing+wax. But my suggestion is to live with the final coat for one, two, three or four weeks to get the most curing time for the paint.
Quote:
3. How many hours should I wait between coats?
With the Brighside, cut with odorless mineral spirits, I would give it at least 24 hours between coats. Cooler tempratures or higher humidities may require you to wait up to 36 hours between coats.
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