What type of compound and wax is recommended?

Has anyone tried to do a strip or maybe flames over a roller job? Say red then roll on some silver flames?

I have been following this for a while and I dont have a car that needs paint, I did need to paint my toolbox. black truck with a black truckbox. I d/a'd it with 220 and used black paint thinned with a little min. sp. and rolled it on, THICK the the next day I wet sanded and rolled it again, and left it. both times there were lots of little bubbles that flowed out within minutes, but overall I think this is great! I did minimal prep, and was not real careful with it, put the paint thick and only sanded ith 220 both times and I think it looks great, I am not real concerned because its a tool box and going to be beat, but I would not hesitate to do this to a car I can only imagine the results that you could get if you took more time than I did, and also dont drive while the paints wet.

Marq,
I can't blame anything on the paint. It was totally the idiot that put it on. The paint right next to it on the fender looks great.
I just neede to sand a little rougher 320 grit and stay with a compatable primer, but I'm a lernin

get mike levallee to do the true flames

Sort of like this!
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/download.php?Number=2933643

I have been following this thread for some time, but this is my first post.

I have done most of the prep work on some of the panels on my old truck and wanted to start painting. I am about to go buy paint. Can I get any of the stateside people who have done it to comment on the use of the various rustoluem flavors (e.g. “professional” vs. “industrial” vs. standard “stops rust” vs. “farm equipment?)” Is there a general consensus on the board that I have just browsed over (the thread is HUGE)? Round these parts selection is very limited. They only sell the standard and the “farm equipment” flavors here, I’ll likely have to drive to Gulfport or order online if I need the other stuff.

Also any tips on where to get the right mineral spirits?

Thanks for all the great information

First welcome to the board, you should be able to find minaral spirits at local Home Depot get the non scented without any problems.
Can't help on the other questions.
BTW my youngest lives in Gulfport.

I got both my paint and mineral spirits at Walmart. I used the Stops Rust version and the Oderless Mineral spirits.

Gerbs

I am wondering now if putting the paint on too thin makes it not has hard as it could be? I put thin layers on my car, and can dent/slice the paint with my nail.

Where I sprayed the car (door jambs, under the hood) it is very hard, and very glossy. It was one thick coat. No way can I scratch it with my nail, and it gets to this hardness in a day or so. Also, I mixed up a thick batch of penetrol and rustoleum and touched up an area (1 coat coverage thickness) and that has dried, in about a week, to rock hard and glossy.

So I'm dissatisfied with the hardness of the finish, and I'm considering either spraying the whole car with Rustoleum + mineral spirits, or trying boat paint with a roller. I'm leaning towards spraying rustoleum via HVLP, but I'm going to go to a marine place this weekend and see what they have on tap.

Glad this is just a hobby and not my livelihood, or I'd be bankrupt by now.

Well I rolled a medium coat of Black using Blue Marine Poly Paint. Some panels came out really weell, others have roller ridges and peel. I am blocking the whole car so this coat is acting as a primer.

nuther

lotsa gloss-poster on the wall.

I also am getting fingernail marks after painting a month ago. I am wondering if this will affect polishing or will polishing beef up the finish and make it harder?

Seriously debating spraying the car with proper one part poly car paint. i have access to a gun.

The gun i can use is the "old style"? I guess it is better than the modern day guns. Don't know why. If I have to spray. i will splurge and get decent DuPont paint. Still on the fence.

What did you use to thin your Brightside applications (mineral spirits or someting else)?

Hello everyone, I was referred here by a friend and I rolled black Brightside on my '92 Nissan 240SX. Looking good, but I've been taking my sweet time getting it done. I started from white, and I got a solid, uniform color after only two coats. I'm about to apply my 4th right now, and I think I may be done after that, unless someone suggests that I continue further. I've used less than a quart and a half so far.

Oh, I bought some of the Pre-Kote, Interlux's own primer... mistake. It was $27 (vs. $33 for the actual paint), and I only used it in areas where I had rust that I took down to bare metal and/or bondoed. Oh well.

Regarding the advice that you should not expose the final coat to any rain for a week, why is this? Letting it set for 24 hours makes sense, but Brightside dries hard very quickly (IIRC Interlux quotes like 12 hour recoat times, or less). I've also heard that you shouldnt sand or polish the top coat for a week or so as well, is this true of Brightside as well?

Pictures coming soon.

wow this is still going! awesome!

I haven't tried it yet, but if I get a beater, I will!

when will this get archived?

exit1965 - there must be something with that cali paint