Seen this on the other post about cost to build headers.







You can try to do it yourself.
It is an exercise in frustration , but at the end of the day I got dang near equal length tubes ( + - 1/2 " ) that are a couple inches longer than ideal.
I invented new combinations in swear words......I knew them all , but the sequence I used them got a real work out.
And since it is plumbed through an X pipe and mufflers , the perfect header would be a moot point.
Flanges from SPD , 1 7/8 " tube kit from Stahl , collector from Stahl......I had around 600.00 in parts and it took all of 40 hours.
But they work pretty O.K. ...........long straight from port to first bend , one tube outside frame rail on each side , but no turning interference.
I should add , I ditched the torsion bars , and probably wouldn't even have tried it if they were in place.


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Can anyone give some tips or tricks on building your own headers?

Take your time. Plan ahead. Mount your flanges and collectors in place. Find some material to simulate primaries and play with layout until satisfied.

I try to 'size' them dimensionally with consideration of what upgrades may be in the future for the application. Put the collector in place first, ideally on a fixture to hold in place. Route the rear tubes for each bank (i.e. 7,8) out the inner fenders and around the frame. Route the tubes CW or CCW respective to the engines firing order. Build the most compromised tube or tubes first so they flow as good as possible. Don't sweat equal lengths. Make S.plugs and wires easy to access. I use a hose clamp and cut out a section in the middle to allow tack-welding while holding tube in place.

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Watch this wonderful set of videos and anybody would want to make their own headers.

http://www.stainlessheaders.com/

I'm building a set right now. It's a complicated turbo setup, so figured I'd try something different. I normally fab a set up in mild steel and then transfer to SS. 321 is too expensive to be mocking up with it.
This is my first time using ICE EngineWorks kit. It's expensive, but you can easily resell it so you'll only have a hundred or so in "using" it.
First impressions are very good. I've laid out many configurations in 10-20 minutes. This would have taken me a day before. Each block is exactly 1" on the radius, so just count them up to know how much material you need. Each block has arrows for orientation, so you know how much is one bend or another. Very easy. You simply lay them over the tube and mark to cut. They have a jig available as well, but just made my own.

You do need to use stubs at the flange, but if you make them a standard length, just add that to the tube length when making the primaries.

As far as tricks, I learn new ones all the time! I had a set of flanges water jet cut:



I grabbed my scrap because you never know what else it could be used for:



That's when it dawned on me to use the slug as a forming tool. Its the same shape as the port:



I reduced the perimeter about .050" to account for tubing wall thickness, rounded the edge the gets driven into the tube, and polished to keep it from grabbing. Did one and decided a hole in the middle with a handle would make life easier:





I formed the tube with the tool, then slipped it inside the flange and formed it again:





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Transition came out pretty good:

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Nice

As has been said, mount your collector where you want it. I normally run the longest tube first to see if the collector location will work with the primary length. If not, adjust it's position.
Primary routing into the collector needs to follow the firing order, which direction is not important.
I prefer double slip collectors to allow some movement. They don't need to be retained, but you can add a spring if worried about it.
I NEVER weld the outside of the tube to the flange. I weld the inside and TIG braze silicone bronze on the outside. This allows structural support and a little movement without wanting to crack the tube.

This forming tool is a short and curly shy of brilliant !
It sure beats the 28 oz, dead blow , with strategic whacks. lol

I agree the forming tool is neat, great work. I have built I guess six sets of headers. I could have bought made headers cheaper, if you count materials and labor, but I can take out my plugs and starter, as well as remove them with out raising the engine, etc. I use a program called pipemax to calculate the length, and diameters, it even calculates step header sizes as well. If I have the time I enjoy building them, good therapy.

Pretty slick work.

I have made a few sets. I'd charge $1500 plus materials if I was going to do a set.

It's a fun, relaxing way to spend a few days, especially if it's a piece of cake like a Hemi or an RB in an A body with stock suspension. I would not suggest it for your first project if you just bought a new welder and decided to teach yourself how to make stuff.

I built these

I hated doing mine, I made a set of ms 2 1/4, 4" collector tubes. It took a few weekends. In the end they hung way too low and the lengths were all over the place. They were just plain ugly . I used them for a season then stumped up $3k for a set of pro built stainless 2 1/4 into a merged 4" collector. They are a work of art, excellent fit in the engine bay, all lengths within 1" bar one tube and can be fitted to the car with the engine and box in place.
I picked up exactly zilch at the strip

I built my own headers.
2 1/8" primaries and 3 1/2" collectors in a C body with a set back Gen2 stroker Hemi. Torsion bars IN.

I made a pattern for flanges. added the thickness of 16ga primary tubing for flow reasons and had water cut. 3/8" thick. I hand formed each tube to become a "square to round" for flow as well. Took forever but well worth it. I used tools I made to from the ends for a smooth look/flow. I did equal length primaries, measured off the cheeks of the bends. I went with spike collectors. Long collectors and 3/8" flanges on the collectors too. They fit pretty danged good in spots so tight it's hard to believe. Had them ceramic coated. I built myself, but they sure didn't end up inexpensive!!!!

I made SURE the bends flowed, no tipped tubes/bends and no cheating. Smooth flow.
Then someone showed me a dyno test of a set of headers on a dyno, fresh headers that were then hammered like crazy. Not much difference on the dyno. Which to ME seems crazy!!!