Wow you are way down on power for that bad boy. As said MPH will tell you what kind of power the eng is making. I agree with use one timing light and set it for best power on the dyno. Honestly if the timing light is right then 42 sounds to high as most of these engines with modern aluminum heads seem to only need between 32 to about 38. To much in high gear once rolling can actually hurt power some. Many racers would actually retard the timing some in high gear once the cars weight is moving along. As said if you can get the car on a chassis dyno and tune from there it will help a lot as you are definetly missing some power that your eng should be making. As for shift rpm ??? Maybe I am just an old fool but 99% of the time I race I never even look at the tach going down the track. I just shift by how the eng is pulling by the feel of it. When it feels like its done pulling and peeking out I shift. Then I can mess with it some from there but my car is very consistent when I just shift by how the eng sounds and feels to me. And I don't think your shift point is the problem you have. Heck it could be as much as an improperly adjusted throttle cable which I am sure you have checked ? Good luck with it but get it on a chassis dyno and if you have any friends who are very good with hotrods and engines take them with you as the more heads thinking on this can be better to help find the problem. Good luck and keep us posted. Ron

Hey Ron, so this motor with the MW ports and cam keeps revving fast, It will hit the 7k chip really fast in first and second,so much you have to be on your game to grab gears.
I have been shifting it at 6500ish, just to keep the bottom end together longer.
I had a 10.3 second 63 Fury Max wedge car in the 90s that ran similar, that motor was a 13:1 426. It was faster but a lot lighter, and an automatic.
Tonight, I brought another timing light over, it matched the Snap On light. We plugged my old Craftsman in, 4 degrees lower.
I'll drop the coin on a chassis dyno, just to know where everything is at. Getting the AFR with open headers and RPMs it peaks at will be helpful. Thanks for the help!

You REALLY need to address the fuel supply before you hurt it..........

65 it's more than just pressure. You can have pressure and no flow, or very low flow. You need volume at a reasonable pressure. IMO, the lower the pressure you can use and keep the bowls full and as much air out of the fuel as you can the better off you'll be.

I'm in the process of upgrading to bottom feed needle and seats to help eliminate aeration. Every little bit helps.

The A/F gauge doesn’t show it leaning out at wot, right?

Early in the thread there was mention of an exhaust, is it for much street use at all? If it is, I'd wonder about the numbers going down the road.

If it needs work in the idle and transtion, myself I would want to start there and then move on to WOT afterwards.

I wouldn't bring it up if I hadn't made the error of too much (actually all) emphasis on wot and letting everything else fall where it may, which although it may have served me well in terms of mph I feel I would have been smarter to have worked on part throttle stuff first since that's where I really spend the majority of my time.

I guess for me the next logical question is...... is the car legal to run under 11.50, and does that matter where you race?

And...... has the dyno day been scheduled yet?