Less weight is easier on EVERYTHING.

8 3/4 , once ANYTHING in it breaks, best thing is to replace it......lol

I understand the loyalty, but really this is why mopar guys are are slow. They refuse to just use what works and will take a lot of power. Ok, flame on !

Every guy above that said they broke one was in a heavy car, and all the ones that survived were in a light car.

Pretty much sums it up

4,000 lbs. will live only if the other variables are small(ish).

Let's assume a 3,000 lb. (or less) car has to be really violent (big tires, chassis works well, high stall or leave RPM) to break a braced, etc. diff.

Is there a point where a 3,500 lb. car is on thin ice? Certainly lots of those here (and other brands). What combinations are very prone to fail after X starts? Is only 200-300 lbs. more on the axle that critical for traction, or is it the larger total mass resisting acceleration?

My friend has a 68 Road Runner 3700ish lb,4speed, 440+6 VERY mild maybe 380hp,never had sticky tires & has broken 3,count them THREE 8 3/4 s, why did Mopar put the 60 in the 440 4speed cars, I think I know the answer.

The collateral damage of a broken rear end is greater than the cost of the Dana. Sure several people have got them to work. Are you as savvy as them, or do you stand a greater chance of putting your car into the wall? Broken rear end on the launch usually takes the transmission with it. At that point you'll be into the repair for the built 8.75 you broke + the dana to replace it + transmission + any other parts...if you're lucky enough to keep the car off the wall.

When I fell out of my keyboard racer closet 2 years ago I was thankful that none of my 165 passes off my trans brake had to transfer the power to the track via a 8.75.

It's amazing that any of these 8.75's are left! I mean according to the people here they blow up if you just start the car!!! LOL.

Some of us hoarders, or I mean old guys still have a few laying around.

I’m on my way to hoarder status. I just bought a housing and 489 case for $50. Now I’m shopping for Dana’s. It’s getting bad!

I've got quite a few laying around, but I have 3 cars to use them in.

Been there, twisted that, spent money on true upgrade, not boxes of bandaids

Mine is still holding up but I only race my 63 about once a year the past 5 or so years. I put 3 passes on it last Saturday and drove it the 45 miles home again after racing. Its only a high 10 second street car that weighs 3700 to 3750 depending on how much gas is in it. And its an auto car. Its also more stock then most would think as other then the Detroit Locker its basically a stock 8-3/4. I want to put a Dana in one day but my funds are very limited living on just disability. Most of all my time is street driving and I don't street race it or run it hard on the street so it may live for many years driving on the street. I love racing and want to race more but my health and budget only let me go about once a year. Course I know if I break it the trans will be coming out for me to go through it also. Ron

I built a Dana for the new car so I could reuse some of the parts from the old car. Not one single piece was reused, now I wish I would have built a Ford 9" for it.

Why? The 9 isn't lighter and if you run a 3.90 or lower gear the 9 takes more power to drive.

That stack of slips proves nothing.

Because when you get into big power, you can't build a Dana to be as strong as a 9". Can't backbrace it, limited gear ratios, little pro gears available, etc.
Everything under the sun is available for a 9".

The only way I'd have a 8 3/4 under a race car is if it's a mild small block small tire car, other wise its a DANA. As far as the Dana vs 9". Unless your making stupid power a Dana is fine. Yes its easier to get parts for a 9", but a Dana can be built a helluva lot cheaper than a 9" if built to handle the same power. My one racing buddy just spent more on a good alum bolt thru complete 3rd member for a 9" than I have in my entire rear end wheel to wheel. He probably didn't need to go as fancy as he did for the E.T. but he's broken stock cases before so he stepped up.

Weight 3600 lb and 470 with indy -1 heads

Backbraced banjo
89- house with crusch slev eliminator
Billet 1350 Yoke
Billet cap cap on driver side
35 splines spool
4.10 gear Richmond
Footbrake

On the twelve start...... Kaabom! Most of the gears teeth was gone.

I know several people still running 8 3/4 and make them live but like everyone here has gone through, once you have a failure of any part you look to go the best upgrade. I have 7 or 8 racers in my circle and 5 have had 8 3/4 failures. All went to Dana including me and none have had issues with a 60. One of them has had three failures even with billet caps.for the guys that make an 8 8/4 live my hat is off to you.I hope I never have to go through another rear end explosion again, sounded like I was hit by a train🤪

If I built a 9", it would be an aluminum case, and fab housing with Moly tubes. It for sure would be lighter then the Dana60. Axles, spool, and gears all cost the same, so the extra cost at this point would be worth the weight loss, and added support the pinion gear gets with a 9". Will I change? Doubt it, but looking back, I would have went a different route.