Why do many guys think a car is overheating at 210 degree? If it doesn't spit out water and or act up 210 is fine esp on a 100 degree day. I just don't see their reasoning Unless you are racing or stuck somewhere quit worrying about it

I think distilled water is expensive, inconvenient and unnecessary.

So I bought a Superbird about two months back and it was overheating a little so It turned out the radiator had a small leak and when I drained it to inspect it had gunk clogging it up. I sent it out to get a new cooler 4 row core and should be ready for pick up in the next hour or two.

I also researched and found a lot of reccimendations to use the following:
“50/50 mix of water/antifreeze,....again I'll recommend the Zerex G-05 brand antifreeze (just 1 gal. the rest water, should be close to 50/50) with 8-10 oz. of Redline Water Wetter added,(Autozone).”

Would that be the best to use? If so then for the water mix would it be regular water or would it have to be distilled?

I would suggest if you found gunk in the radiator and that gunk included fine rust, pull the starter, knock the frost plugs out, pull water pump housing and flush that block out. These cars sit so much they rust in the water jackets even if antifeeze is green. Just did my own sbird block was full halfway up frostplugs, never ran hot, always had green antifreeze.

is that GO-5 the orange stuff? I thought that was to be avoided ???

Thank you! when I read "orange" that is what I remembered (erroneously) from way back. EDIT would you recommend this over the Prestone (iirc) green stuff?

i know the best "orange" stuff is ok, but i can't feel comfortable using it ! i gotta have green stuff to put my mind at ease. now, if they would only make long "life green", i would be in "seventh heaven" as the saying goes.

OK, I don't mean any offense to anyone, but I am literally an anti-freeze scientist (seriously).
1. Use distilled water - most of what you see as "sludge/gunk" inside your cooling system is from previous owners using tap water (well water is the worst). The water evaporates & the minerals in the water coat the inside of your cooling system.
2. Water cools better than antifreeze (normally ethylene glycol) because water has better heat transfer. You should run the most water / least antifreeze for the coldest day of the year in your area (wind chill doesn't count). The only downside of water is that it freezes.
3. Water Wetter is simply the "corrosion inhibitor package" of antifreeze (similar to Dexcool) + a touch of ethylene glycol. It does NOT make your engine cooler just by adding to your 50/50 coolant. It DOES allow you to run straight distilled water, which DOES make your engine run cooler.
4. The color of antifreeze means nothing.
5. The closest formula to the original Mopar coolant is "Peak Green" (the name of the antifreeze, not just the color). Most green-colored Peak antifreeze is Dexcool with green dye. (which is also fine to run, fyi)
6. If you do run more water (e.g. 70/30 or just distilled water instead of 50/50), the DO use Water Wetter (iron heads) or Lucas Super Coolant / Royal Purple's Purple Ice (aluminum heads). Hyper Cool is "snake oil".
7. Do not mix your brands of anti-freeze (regardless if they're the same color). Some "green" anti-freeze doesn't mix well with other "green" ant-freeze.

8. Side note - Evans will make your car run hot. If you insist on running "waterless" antifreeze (Evans does have water in it), then just run DexCool concentrate...nearly identical formulas. I don't recommend either without the water personally.

Oh yeah, and make SURE your engine block, body & frame are all grounded very well to each other to avoid "electrolysis". If your ground wires get corroded, the electricity will flow through your coolant and cause corrosion.