We got the fuel lines finished at the rear...still have to cut it off up front to attach to the carb.

Began running brake lines and installed the 2 gauge positive wire running to the front of the car.

And its black...

Very cool project Skicker! I think the black looks better than the
funky tan? color of the engine bay, oh well. Ya know, my Duster started out almost exactly like yours did!! '72, Gold, tan vinyl bench interior, 318 2 bbl, auto, A/C, whitewalls/hubcaps.....now it has a 1971 340 based 040" over engine block, that is now 418" CI, Eagle 4" forged crank, Scat I beam rods, Keith Black forged pistons,
Bullet solid mechanical cam, roller rockers, ported Victor jr intake, fully ported/polished J heads, Demon 850 cfm mech. carb. 727 all fully built, 3000 stall convertor, B&M Ratchet shifter, 489 case 8-3/4 with 4.10 Richmond gears...15" Ralleye wheels...
etc. But my car is now "Chili Pepper" Red, instead of the original Gold. I really wish the previous owners, would have left it in the original paint, oh well.
The interior was changed to all factory black, with original factory 1972 Duster bucket seats.
I bought mine the way it is currently, it was all built less than 5 years ago, with about only 575 miles currently on the drivetrain. I wish you all the luck to you, and your dad on the Duster, keep sendind us pics of the progress!

Thx...I tried to push for a color change in the interior too...He decided he wanted to take everything apart and clean it up as good as it will....
Once I removed everything and it was cleaned up it was all still 8 different shades of a tan-gold-off white...
The door panels and plastic backers had never been off of this before as all plastic was in place with the original black tape.
It is now being prepped for a re-do with a color similar to the original along with a slightly darker color for the metal panels on the door and around the side windows...
I managed to get the brakes completed and bled out...
Shout out to Cass for choosing the m/cyl bore about perfect for 4 corner 4 piston disc brakes. Car has a great pedal feel...
A few brake lines were re-routed and a rear adjustable prop valve was installed along with 12" long stainless hoses up front.

Interior began to go back in...
All door panels, package tray and headliner are completed...
I did have to buy new armrests and bases as both were broken and the armrest pads were covered over by the previous owner...
Splurged for a new dome light lens and chrome lock knobs...
Turns out I had a decent dash pad tucked away so we used it...
Now I think he wants new seat covers...
Before and after pics included...

more new interior...

Looks great! Now I see what my interior would have looked like when it was
tan, when my car was new...keep updating us with progress, have a great
Christmas.

Any new progress on the Duster lately?

There is 4 new wheels and tires on it... 275-60-15 M/T ET Streets...
Need to stop by tonight and get a few pics...
I also need to find some time to stop down and get the under dash wiring all hooked up for the MSD and the relocated battery...
I'll finish the steering column when I can get the motor in from the bottom with the K frame and put everything together once...

What wheels did you end up using? Rear wheel backspace used?
Any fitment issues using the M/T 275/60/15's out back?
Is the rear 8-3/4 axle stock factory width?

I was thinking of using same rear tire eventually on my Duster, but wasn't
sure they would fit, I have factory 15X7 Ralleys all the way around.

The rear is an uncut width 65 B Body housing from a Belvedere.
I ordered axles from Cass at Dr. Diff with green bearings so that I could use the Wilwood disc brake backing plates.
The wheels are 15" x 9 1/2" with 5 1/2" of backspace. They are Summit "Vision" wheels and are on their website. They look like Weld Drag Lites for about 1/3 the price and they are heavier than Drag Lites.
Springs are Superstock 002 and 003 and have been moved back 3/4". The front perches have been flipped upside down to lower the ride height down some. There are sliders at the rear rather than the factory shackles.
There is about 3/4" from the inside bulge of the tire to the side of the leaf springs.
Here are the pics...

I don't think they will ever rub on the 1/4's but I'll have to wait and see what the final ride height looks like when everything is finished.
Body cleaned up pretty good and looks a lot better without the side moldings. I did put new side marker lights in as the old ones were pretty rough...

Any new progress on the Duster lately?

Dad had been waiting for the engine to come back from being freshened.
New Promaxx heads were installed with an M1 intake.
Cam was advanced a couple degrees.
I don't know what the Hell is up with the corporate Blue but whatever...

Finding all of the small parts needed has been a PITA.
I knew I had the correct pulleys for manual steering somewhere...along with the alternator and modified throttle cable brackets. Not to mention all of the correct length bolts and spacers.
After a couple hours online I managed to sort out all of the fittings....hoses...and bolt on parts to get this installed.
Aftermarket this and that just leads to modifying everything as nothing fits as stock did...
First we did the Convertor and Flex Plate...then the Transmission and cross-member...then the starter...
Since we upgraded to the 73 up spool mount K frame we also changed out the cross-member for the 73-up spool mount one.
I used a shorter ground strap this time and I think it will work out better.

The trans has a reverse manual valve body so there is no kick down linkage required.
Next the Doug's # 453 headers were installed...followed by the K frame and the manual steering box. (Side note Promaxx heads are not drilled deep enough for the headers bolts included with the Doug's headers...you will need to cut about 1/8" off of the bolts as they bottom out before tightening up.)
The starter is wired to be used with a Ford Relay so the starter lead is one wire with an aluminum bracket crossing the starter posts.

We had to tap the two holes in the water pump where the bypass hose and heater hoses were located.
Lower control arms with new bushings and new strut rod bushings installed...
Alternator brackets and spacers worked out...
Lokar flexible transmission dipstick used rather than stock...
MSD distributor in using the black advance pill along with one silver and one blue spring rather than the factory "barn door" springs.
New 45* Taylor wires and plugs and its ready to install from the bottom...

All these hours and hours of work to make the install take about 10 minutes...
I installed the torsion bars from the front and slid them about halfway back through the cross-member...
We had made a 2x2 box tube that fits between the frame rails to lift the car with the engine crane...
It is as simple as lifting it up and them positioning the engine and trans and then lowering it back down...
Put the 4 transmission cross member bolts in 1st(leave the trany mount a little loose) and then lower it on down until the K frame bolts can be installed...
Index the LCA's to the torsion bars and slide them in...then install the torsion bar bolts...
Literally 10 minutes and its back on the jack stands to button everything up...

All front suspension will need to be hooked back up...
I should have the radiator and a few more small parts early this week...
I installed the trans dipstick and the MSD Coil and wiring from the box...
I still need to rework the entire steering column after changing to manual steering and modify all the wiring to install the MSD box under the dash...
Still need to make the -6 stainless transmission lines to the radiator and the cooler...
Re-install the front seat...guess I'm going to be busy...