Energy Suspension 56105G for the rear. Rock Auto lists it as a leaf insulator:

Agree on the shocks. I will either go with Bilsteins on the high end or Monroe-matics on the low end.
I'll look into the steel sleeved Poly isolators for the front and Poly's for the rear as I hate the crab walk especially over bumps and pot holes.

I glad someone is stepping up to the plate and wants to make the iso-mounts. I know some of NOS ones are still available if you search for them. I put a NOS set on my 73 Charger a few years back. They pop up on ebay too once in a while. I just hope whomever makes them they don`t use the same rubber that they make new motors mounts from. India and China rubber is horrible from my experiences. I bought a trans mount (made in india) and it lasted for only a short time before failing. BTW, I agree on the KYB`s. Too bad I didn`t know before hand.

fullmetal, one other thing to look out for. The car looks really nice and rust free but the rubber iso-mount seem to keep moisture between the rubber and the k frame. They have a tendency to rust there so check them out and also lube the bolts up well as they can be tough to remove if rusty.

Yes, I've heard of the rust built-up in those areas after so many years. I'll be sure to have all the Murhpy's law tools handy when I dive into the job.
I'm gonna try and find OEM/NOS types.
What a shame for the moment that there seems to be a shortage of original parts for these cool cars being that they made so many of them in production. Possibly the most amount of Chargers of any generation.
Oh, thank you. The car has grown on me and as I said, I love the 71'-74' Chargers and Sats. They just scream out MOPAR and look fast sitting still. I opted for the four door so that I could have family and friends aboard and also to keep me from falling for yet another Hot Rod project. LOL.

My vote is for Monroe matics. They are similar to OE police shocks, and allow the suspension to work properly (unlike kybs). Nothing wrong with them if you aren't trying to compensate for weak t-bars or leafs. They will undoubtedly need to be replaced faster, but they are also far cheaper.

Yeah this car will get the full on both the front and rear suspensions.

BTW, I have the Monroe-matics on all four corners of my 83' Diplomat police car and they ride real nice. Firm, but not teeth shattering.

just if a bit the front end to match with fenders shape

I doubt it. I have a 73 Satellite sedan hood and it's several inches shorter than the 72 Charger hood I have stacked behind it. The only scoop I have seen that looks half decent on a Coronet is the T/A style, but to be honest the front end is already pretty aggressive looking for a four door.

The part numbers are different and the front edge of the hood looks a different shape as said.

Something else to worry about:

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforu...coupler.147177/

Yes, I was trying to have a good look at my steering joints and such.
Man, these cars are a challenge aren't they?

One thing or headache at a time I guess. LOL.

3575303 mopar rubber steering coupler for a 73 B body
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1973-Satellite-...co/142583107232


YIKES!

Yes and no. I have a 73 column in my basement that I've been meaning to check, hopefully the triumph rag joint will fit. Did you upgrade to the C-body tie rods?

No I have not upgraded to the C-body tie rods yet. In fact the only NOS part that I have so far through a friend is the pitman arm.
My friend Special K, is good at tracking down all NOS parts if they are out there because he knows all the part numbers and lets me know.

Once again, why upgrade to the C body tie rods end speciall on a regular base 73 Coronet? Damn! They could be somehow nice to be installed on a car wich will be abused, but, on a regular pleasured driven 73 small block Coronet ?

I still haven't seen a damaged stock A and B body tie rod ends system damaged and needing to take advantage of the bigger C body setup, on all these years! And cars down here are REALLY ABUSED.


I say "once again" because I constantly read some suggestions on upgrades ( not just on this area ) where are not really needed! Come on! Modern cars got even "weaker" suspension and steering parts than back in the days any stock piece, and they hold quite good!

Nacho, the cost for the stock parts vs the beefier C-body pieces is essentially the same in the US (same with the time to install). So if someone is replacing worn originals, it just makes sense to upgrade. And since dealers would routinely snap off the grease fittings, you probably need new tie rods.

My thought as to why you would want to upgrade on a non-performance car would be for added safety in the event of a collision or other road hazard. The biggest risk would probably come from the tie rod end ripping free of the sleeve. I am guessing you'd rather retain control of your car if at all possible - for me it's "cheap insurance."

I give you credit for tracking down NOS parts for a 73 sedan. You may actually have better luck than most since I am sure many parts are the same 73-79, and the number of people looking for that year range is lower than the 68-72s.

Since you seem to be committed to NOS, you may want to have your friend locate a set of cast iron K-member biscuits (4419942). These were used on 80s police cars and taxis. They will work on a 73 if you reverse them.

Montclaire
The only reason I usually go for NOS stuff is that they are/were made here in the USA back in the day. MOOG, TRW were made both here and in Canada and are not NOS obviously, but were/are made with quality materials. That blessing since has changed for the most part and I do not want any off shore junk inferior stuff neither under, on top or in my car if I can help it.
Now that being said, some rubber NOS stuff ( Upper control arm bushings, etc) even though they were made here in the US, have since deteriorated from age in bad environments or shelf life in general and turn up to be no good, so off shore or after market stuff is the only alternative.
Now on the C-body stuff, I see no reason to not take advantage in using a beefier part on a relatively heavy car on NYC streets. The more heavy duty, the less weight on my shoulders about reliability on a daily driver.

My eyes are wide open with this car. Learning a lot from all you guys. Thank you.