Is there any disadvantages to using a 4.150 crank or are you just looking for big cubes.

A hyd roller works fine in a big stroker since you don't need a lot of RPM to make power. A 505 with standard port heads will be pretty much finshed by 6500 rpm so it is a good match for a hyd roller cam.

If a building a street engine then don't get wrapped up in race engine thinking. A good street engine will have a smooth idle and a bunch of torque down low and if it runs out of steam a little early then so what. How often are you going to unleash 650 hp on the street anyway?

This is completely accurate! Getting a little further along, these engines don't need nor do they like higher stalls convertors and deep gears. A 2500 stall works well as does 3.23/3.55/3.54 gears.

Overbuild EVERYTHING! A driveshaft with 1350 joints is mandatory as is a pinion yoke with u-bolts. Throw away any hopes of getting an 8 3/4 to live and get a Dana 60. Not sure if something like a Dana Track lock would hold up or not, but I went with a spool to avoid future issues.

I make 713 ft./lbs. at 3450 rpm n/a and 885 ft./lbs. with a 150 shot of nitrous. It TESTS EVERYTHING! I've broken lots of stuff in the last two years but drive the car at least twice a week and race it every nice weekend. The work is worth it when you blow off sportbikes and high end latemodel stuff!

What cam was in your build that made 713 ft/lb? I agree on not going crazy deep with gears if you have the torque to pull a 3.54 or 3.73 through the traps. Being a hot rod, of course I want a rough idle that's what they make vacuum pumps for lol. I was hoping to keep stall speeds down as well. I have not yet purchased anything other than a 2 early 70's 440 block to have on the shelf. I'm still undecided on 512 or 528 kit and the TF 240 head vs the 270... Yes this is a street driven car that will have a set of slicks bolted on once in a while for track days but it is not a race car. I know I'm walking a fine line there on this build and all it takes is a few wrong choices to turn this into a car that can be temperamental on the street.

GY3! I'm in OKC, what are the chances I could swing by over some weekend to examine your build? The depending on the final gear choice, the OD would likely be needed, would travel an easy 100 miles on freeway in a day just to get to and from any event or just from one side of the city to the other and back.

If I stuck with a 3.54 or 3.73 it would be tolerable without OD

I have a low deck 512 440 source kit, hydro roller cam, AC,3.54 gear overdrive auto trans,68 Charger 4050 with me in it, I drive it almost every day, it is a FUN street car, 1st easy pass since freshen up from a flat tappet cam problem,in street trim,full exhaust 11.33 @ 121.1 DA was 1750, no track tuning done yet, they want me to put a roll bar in it & I dont want to yet

1968 Dodge Charger,4050lb with me Street car, COLD AC, 512 low deck, 440 source stroker kit
9.7 compression,Morel high rpm roller lifters, Hughes hydro roller cam 255,258@.050,
.608/.613 lift with 1.6 T&D rockers with B3 geometry correction, Indy 400-2 intake
that I ported to max wedge,1050AN 4150 pieced together carb,
440 source Super stealth heads max wedge size that I ported flow 330 @ .700, with Farrea valves,
Comp Beehive springs, 1 7/8 headers, full 3" magnaflow exhaust & tail pipes.
A518 overdrive trans,4000stall lock up converter, alum driveshaft,
3.54 Strange Dana 60, Caltrac bars & split mono springs with sliders.
325-50-15 MT drag radials street. drove 80 mph, 80 mile round trip to the track, dropped the air pressure in the rear tires, turned of the AC & made a easy , short shifted pass, next pass went up against the converter 2500 & it blew the tires off, got to hot outside for me, drove home in the ac. smile

That sounds like a fun ride! Who built the 518 and what did it take to make it work with the high HP Big Block? How much work was required to make it fit the B body trans tunnel?

Thanks