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Just want to put in a thank you to 69charger for this amazing thread. There are alot of haters around here who think this idea is garbage but ive read from page 1 and its amazing. I came over from 240sxforums.com and have subscribed just to say this. I will be trying this out and spreading this idea to the 240sx community, giving obvious credit where it is deserved. Charger, you should make a website (ill be your webmaaster). Call it something like poboyspaint.com and get some banners, make 5 cents a click and youll be rich by next sunday lol..

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shhhhhh, or someone will steal the idea lol. i'm in the computer/network business (self employeed) and have thought about the idea, but there are so many nay sayers that it's just not worth it, between that and painting cars for other people i think i could make alot of $, but i'm happy with helping out folks get their rides on the road. this method if done right and with patience, WILL turn out very good. it's all about the time you put into it and the prep quality. the issue is most people considering this method have never done body work before let alone paint. so usually the results are crappy, and the method suffers merrit. the paint is rock hard after 6 months, litterelly like a stove, the enamel dries very hard. but people expect the result instantly, and with all auto paints there is a lengthy drying time to reach full hardness. if you take your time and do proper prep, you can have a excellent paint job that not only lasts, but looks great. besides, if you take your time, this method will yeild results better than any macco paint job period. like i said many times before this paint is THE BEST paint i've ever used, as far as it's ease of use, and it's not prone to all the stuff auto paint are prone too, like fish eyes, peeling, fading, cracking, ect...you would really have to try or be retarded to pull off a crappy job!!!! besides painting your car with this method does not wreak the car, you CAN repaint it later, weather you use this method to hold you over for a few years until you can afford to have your car painted, or you take your time to make is the best you can, it will work either way.

c38 coupe, if i were you i'd paint the primer full strength, and dry sand it before paint, with probabally 300-400 grit. as for the pinholes, they are best welded, if you can get behind, you can use a brass or copper (i can't remember right now) block that the welds don't stick to, and then grind that flat, and use spot puddy to just perfect it. any pinholes that go thru the metal will just rust later. don't forget to paint behind the pannels too where ever possible. i allways paint the entire undercarriage, and inner floors with fully rubberized undercoating, not the ashfault crap, canadian tire has their own brand (made by 3M) which is a fully rubberized undercoat/rocker guard, in the professional line (gold and black label). that stuff is awesome, withstands heat, makes your car alot quieter, and is paintable over it.

also just a note for those of you using Wagner ele paint sprayers, i played that game too, and found that the thing is not consistent enough to give good results, you can get a much better result with the roller, and less mess, and fuss. plus that stupid wagner gun will all of a sudden start spitting, and create 10 times more work to fix. they work don't get me wrong, but it still makes a huge mess, and really takes more skill to do over the roller. the good ol' roller is the best method i've found for this paint, and i've done everything, and sprayed alot of single stage acrylic enamel. it really does'nt matter how you get the paint on the car (spray or roller, dip, ect...) just that you apply the right thickness and get a smooth paint application, the method is irrevellant.

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now i have a question... probably more of a general paint question, but are any of you doing jambs, as well as trunk and engine bay areas for a complete color change? if so where do you tape off to not get paint transfer from one area to the next.

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I am doing all jambs and trunk area. I figured whether I roll on or spray, I will do these areas first, that way any heavy overspray of mess ups ion the body part, I can sand down before doing thos areas.

On a side not to an above response to my Wagner question. I figured on more paint being used, I bought a gallon anyway, so I should be okay. I will be painting in my garage with plastic drop cloths on the floor, and a plastic box made around the car to keep paint dust from gtting everywhere. Hopefully this will cut down on most contaminents getting in the paint. I'll also be painting during the day, to cut down on nightime bugs.

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course, if I can perfect the roller method (which I'm still attempting) I won't spray it.

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do yourself a favor and use the roller......trust me on this one. you'll thank me later.

basically sand and prep the car outside, then take it around the block and vaccuum and clean the car. hose out your garage, keep it really clean. pull in your car, and use a bucket of water and a shammy, whipe down the whole car a few times, and then clean with the whole car with mineral spirits, a rag soaked well does the job. then let it dry, shammy it again, let that dry, then go to paint, roller the hood and front cowl first, then the front fenders, then the roof and rear quarters, then the trunk, then the doors last, before you do each pannel use a autobody tack cloth to clean each pannel, then when your all done, open the doors and trunk/hood, and with the roller where you can, roller the jambs, and use a foam brush in the tight spots, then follow it by the roller on the flat surfaces, with really little paint loaded in the roller, and squeeze the roller everywhere you can, and paint the bottom of the trunk ect...while the paint on the car dries (you might want to wait a few hours to do the jambs ect...) then repeat the whole process. i used about 3/4 of a gallon to paint the charger, the 71 beetle i sprayed single stage acrylic enamel midnight metalic blue on i used about 1 and 1/2 gallons on that small car, using a HVLP gun/compressor. i was high after 5 mins, and it made a huge mess. no matter how hard you try to keep the garage clean if you spray (regardless of air/wagner) you're battle with dirt/dust/bugs/dog a$$ hairs, will never end, trust me. since with the roller your not disturbing any air, there is minimal dust, if nothing depending on how clean your area is, pretend there is a baby sleeping right next to you, and tip toe around the garage while painting, and open and close doors very slowly, and you'll have virtually no dust/dirt/hair/bugs at all.

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course, if I can perfect the roller method (which I'm still attempting) I won't spray it.

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do yourself a favor and use the roller......trust me on this one. you'll thank me later.

basically sand and prep the car outside, then take it around the block and vaccuum and clean the car. hose out your garage, keep it really clean. pull in your car, and use a bucket of water and a shammy, whipe down the whole car a few times, and then clean with the whole car with mineral spirits, a rag soaked well does the job. then let it dry, shammy it again, let that dry, then go to paint, roller the hood and front cowl first, then the front fenders, then the roof and rear quarters, then the trunk, then the doors last, before you do each pannel use a autobody tack cloth to clean each pannel, then when your all done, open the doors and trunk/hood, and with the roller where you can, roller the jambs, and use a foam brush in the tight spots, then follow it by the roller on the flat surfaces, with really little paint loaded in the roller, and squeeze the roller everywhere you can, and paint the bottom of the trunk ect...while the paint on the car dries (you might want to wait a few hours to do the jambs ect...) then repeat the whole process. i used about 3/4 of a gallon to paint the charger, the 71 beetle i sprayed single stage acrylic enamel midnight metalic blue on i used about 1 and 1/2 gallons on that small car, using a HVLP gun/compressor. i was high after 5 mins, and it made a huge mess. no matter how hard you try to keep the garage clean if you spray (regardless of air/wagner) you're battle with dirt/dust/bugs/dog a$$ hairs, will never end, trust me. since with the roller your not disturbing any air, there is minimal dust, if nothing depending on how clean your area is, pretend there is a baby sleeping right next to you, and tip toe around the garage while painting, and open and close doors very slowly, and you'll have virtually no dust/dirt/hair/bugs at all.

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i'm all over it dude!!! roller for the win!!!

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i'm all over it dude!!! roller for the win!!!

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i'm all over it dude!!! roller for the win!!!

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speaking of the roller method, a question for everyone I suppose. How did you roll the paint on? What process as far as the roller is concerned.

Did you roll in just one direction? Did you back and forth like you're painting a wall, did you roll fast, slow, heavy, light? I'm just curious if my technique is in line with others

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that's a hard one to answer, and it's all based on technique. it's like asking a diamond cutter how to split diamonds!!!! it's hard to describe it but i'll try: lets take for example the hood, i'd start in 1 corner, load up the paint on the roller not dripping but close, and then just spread quickly, going over lets say half of the hood to just glob paint all over, then pressing slightly hard, and working fast, i'd start to roller the paint on the hood, actually working quite fast at first, then once the whole area is covered evenly, i use light pressure and work the paint further to distribute it as good as possible, not surpassing the working window of the paint which is about 5mins, once it's even i use really really light pressure (weight of the roller with no paint in it) and just go over the paint to pop the bubbles if there are any. it's a really tricky thing to describe, the mineral spirits does 2 things, thins the paint to promote the "self leveling" process, and actually increases "pot life" or effectively increases the work time of the paint, but it's a double edged sword, straight paint dries faster, but is thicker in layers, but thinned paint dries slower but is thinner layers, follow me? anyways hope that description helps, changing directions is'nt necessary.

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I will have to grab some of that thinner you used and use it when mixing up paint for spray in my new refillable spray can I picked up at harbor freight today.

And to think I have a compressor and even a HVLP gun, but pumping up a spray can with a bicycle pump and filling it with paint seems to fit better with applying the paint with a roller. This is a totally hand powered, hippie style paint job.

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Personally I have 180, 400, 800, 1000 in 6" hook and loop (velcro). I used this with my Hitachi rotary and also with the Porter Cable 7336 random orbit polisher.

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I will have to grab some of that thinner you used and use it when mixing up paint for spray in my new refillable spray can I picked up at harbor freight today.

And to think I have a compressor and even a HVLP gun, but pumping up a spray can with a bicycle pump and filling it with paint seems to fit better with applying the paint with a roller. This is a totally hand powered, hippie style paint job.

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Hey Exit, did you get a chance to use that HF refillable pump-spray can yet? I spent hours yesterday applying primer to my engine bay and trunk (lots of uneven surfaces), mostly with a foam brush, and I'm seriously considering spraying those areas instead. How does it work?

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