The Red Brick has 519hp/506 ft lbs, but who's counting?

Regardless of the actual power numbers, I'm sure that thing absolutely flies

I agree to all the above whereby leaning towards bolt-in items are far more proven and less costly. The coil-spring conversions (front and/or rear).. leave them for the guys who want to be different..and spend lots of unneccessary expenses and waste of time. You'ld creating another piece of lengthy artwork (pro-street), and honestly, I've never seen a ProStreet machine beat out a stock-modified car in HSAX/AX competition (any well-setup SCCA ESP classed car, as well as the recent CAM-T cars, can and does beat out the vast majority of Pro-Street cars. There are very rare exceptions to a pro-street car performing better.. and ONLY those are with professional drivers who routinely can beat most anyone in any car at any time.

TBs: I suggest 1.12 minimum, better off at 1.18... then you'll wonder why you still didn't put in 1.24 TBs (contact Firm Feel).

Rear Leafs: Composites are lighter and can be custom made with poundage and free/compressed arch. Metal leafs ok.. but heavy, Regardles, first weigh your car then determine the rear stiffness and arch... flatter always better than arched. NOTE: AVOID OFF-THE-SHELF UNITS... HAVE THEM CUSTOM-MADE TO YOUR SPECS (I RECOMMEND FLEX-A-FORM FIBERGLASS LEAFS if you want to go that route).

Shocks: Double adjustables... you pay for what you get; Vikings are the best buy (similar as QA1, but less expensive).

Good comfortable lateral supportive front seats... try many out.. for comfort and fitting your body.

Engine: BB are awesome but HEAVY!.. and they hinder cornering and breaking. Reconsider with a SB stroker with aluminum heads.

OIL PAN: Milodon road race!

Tranny: Automatics are fine (modified with a shift kit of some kind so that you can override the automatic and up/down shift at any speed any time; sticks are cool.. your choice... consider an OD tranny setup for long hwy cruising.

RACING RULES: Seriously, consider looking at whatever your local clubs have to offer. Parking lot AX (SCCA and similar) ... consider CAM-T class rules -- mostly allows a lot of mods... $$$$$ HSAX... again look at what's offered by you and their class rules. HPDE is lapping sessions... no rules other than safe car.

TIRES: Spend $$$ here... this is what connects you to the pavement.. and wide light-weight rims. Look at the TW ratings for ~240 or less, 200 most common today for club racing racing rules. 17" are limited in size (~275-40-17 max, and small diameter); so, consider 18" for best overall choices.

Don't be afraid of flairing/flushing/pulling the fenders out a little as may be needed to fit the tires/wheels.... realistically, not much is needed and can still appear stock.

UCAs: Consider the adjustable types (more expensive) instead of the non- adjustable low-cost types. Our cars desparately need more positive CASTER with a little negative camber... SPC, Hotchkis, Magnum... initial choices.

When done, balance the car at the four corners (side-to-side as close as possible), then go to the alignment shop.

Good luck!

The Brick does fly (160+ mph) but it is brutal to ride in. If you want a modern car buy a modern car. Hard to beat 50 years of R&D by a huge engineering staff.

For me, the Brick's ride wasn't so bad, it was the heat and noise that wss the problem. Earplugs took care of the noise, but the heat was brutal. According to the two guys who have owned it since I did, Dynamat and carpet helped a lot with both heat and noise. I should have put that stuff in. I might have kept it.