No problem. Think i know. I have the chrome moroso and a no name that style too. Could use a canister style like mopar or ford to, but thinking maybe just twin open breathers on one cover.

Heres something from speedway motors for $20. If i want black i just paint them. Cheap fix. Just bore another hole next to the current one and mount side by side. Function and fashion. Use pcv on other cover. Should get plenty of air flow and raised up keep oil where its suppose to be.

Another option mentioned already would be a oil breather can which i have. Just needs black paint on the cheap as well. Heres one i never seen before. Looks cool.

A little crude looking but cheap and effective:
1. big (at least 3/4") fitting in each valve cover, with a baffle inside to mask splash
2. big hose goes away from the engine sideways
3. to a big horizontal cylinder on top of the inner fender (largest diameter that allows the hood to close)
4. if possible, cylinders should drain back to the covers when stopped, otherwise a drain and hose to empty it
5. huge volume is possible: 3" OD × .060" wall cylinder 24" long is over 300" for both
6. a backfire will blow the connecting hose off, so strength is useless in the cylinder itself - no moly, no carbon fiber, just mild exhaust tubing
7. not as effective as an extension to the pan because
a. limited by hose size
b. air blowing up from the pan fights oil drain from the heads

Heres a Peterson breather that Andy suggested. Has a check valve and pricy as well. Not sure i would want a check valve there. Looks like a quality piece thou.

Really looking for inexpensive and simple. I think the open element breather is the easiest yet and on paper should work. Thanks for the ideas.

I'd be inclined to deal with the blow by before trying to crutch ring seal with a PCV system. That's not what they are for.

That said, I'd seal the engine and run your PCV system closed and run pan evacs with it. You can get a negative pan pressure doing it that way.

Not as much as with a vacuum pump but more than what you have now.

Cant run pan evac with exhaust system. Tried that already. They make pressure with rpm.

PCV hose, -4 enough or should i have -6 hose on PVC valve?

Then I'd consider a vacuum pump.

2 is a waste of time and $$$ really...........I run a K&N open breather with a home made wrap around piece of tin to limit excess oil spray...........

From what i have been told vac pumps on the street need alot of maintenance with the vanes needi g replacement often. Was gonna go that way awhile back with my sb but was talked out of it.

I agree 1 would be enough, but the kit comes with 2 for $20.

Cant believe the price of the K&N breathers. $20 more than the Peterson and i bet not near the quality.

GM and others have been using electric vacuum pumps on street cars for a long time.
On a sound 500HP engine with normal ring tension, the factory setup has worked for me.
On my Duster drag car, when it wasin the 11s & no mufflers, a pan evac worked. When I got greedy, with low-tension rings as part of the revised combo, put it in the low 10s, and added a bit of 3.5" exhaust & Bullets to meet a Db rule, the pan evac wasn't as effective, some smoke from the pipes. Changed to a regular GM electric vac pump & vented puke tank. Fixed. Sucks out of one valve cover, pulls 5" of vacuum measured at fitting on opposite valve cover.

I ended up running two PCV and two screw in breather caps, one of each on each side on my old 518 pump gas street 400 stroker motor I had a old set of Cal Custom cast aluminum valve covers on it with a single PVC and breather cap on the other side, it would push oil out of the breather cap when racing it on the weekends shifting at or above 7000 RPM I added three more breathers caps which helped but did not cure the oil pushing out the caps, adding two PVC with two caps did end up curing it
I do make and use a crankshaft scrapers also, they help I run six quarts in a stock 1970/1971 Mopar Street Hemi, 440 six pack oil pan also, I do not overfill it

Ok Cab. This is the pan i bought from you. Thought you said to use 1/2 qt over pan capacity to avoid sucking pan dry thru 1/4? Thought it was a 8qt, nope its a 7qt. So you say to use 6qts? May be main problem with oil pushing out with high rpm.

I know of a few people running those and some like em some don't but I pull 12+ in. of vacuum cruising and around 7 idling so I'll stick to this BUT, at wot the 5" is better then the 0-2 in. of vacuum a lot probably see there...........

If Moroso says that pan holds 7 quarts try running it there and watch the oil pressure in the 1/4 from the 1000 lights on
I bought that pan used so I didn't get the instruction with it, do you use a windage tray in it? If not I would

If you are sucking the pan dry on a 1/4 mile pass you have issues.

There is no POSSIBLE way to suck a pan dry like that. If the pick up is .250 from the floor of the pan (depending on the pick up) like it should be you can't suck a 5 quart pan dry in one pass.

I guess you could have some issue with oil return and the heads are holding oil it's POSSIBLE. If that's the case, the fix isn't more oil in the pan. It's to figure out how to get the oil out of the heads.

I thought the old wives tale of sucking pans dry was gone. Evidently not.