Convert to a floater axle(?, costly initially, but a safer/better HP solution), discs do not like typical axle bearing play. I think you are talking about a 1/4"? max per side offset , is that critical in your case?

The wilwood kit for the rear lists that it has a 2.36 offset. I'm not sure if it's 2.36 mm or what they are referring to, but I already have rubbing issues on my car as is and I don't want to make it any worse.

Wilwood if I remember correctly, has two basic mopar axle flange offsets, 2.36" and 2.5". Which you need to add rotor/hat flange thickness to I believe.

The measurement is in inches and it is defining the spacers necessary to center the caliper on the rotor. The 2.36 and the 2.50" offset kits use the exact same rotor and caliper set, one won't stick out further than the other. Compared to eachother.

That said, I did have a slightly different shim on mine and it wasn't the first time Wilwood had seen that. Factory axle housing tolerances, I suppose.

The rotor can't me all that much thicker than a drum..

My brother added a Wilwood rear disc brake setup to his low 11sec/120mph GM A body street/strip car and it stops no better than it did with the drum setup. He was expecting more, but no dice.

If your autocrossing/road racing or anything that requires frequent hard braking then 4 wheel discs are better as they don't fade like drums can.

Is there really anything to worry about having to use the green bearings? All of the reviews that I've read on them seem to be everybody that used the first model that they came out with instead of the modified versions. I really don't want to buy a new rear and have something go wrong with the bearings. I saw somewhere that moser has their own green bearings made specifically for them. Are these any better?

The newer snap ring style radial ball type bearings are much better than the early one piece Green bearings. The new snap ring style bearings work perfectly with the Wilwood caliper brackets.

I am using the Dynalite 4 piston calipers on my Savoy and I love the fact that I can pull it down from 125 MPH very quickly and smoothly. The only thing I would have preferred was solid rotors,the drilled units have this slight hissing sound light braking.
Just put the discs on because they are better than drums
Gus

I think the oldest set of Green Bearings I have are on my Challenger T/A they're at least 3 decades old, I've got a set on every car I own, 8 3/4 and DANA 60 axles, ZERO issues, ZERO problems, ZERO failures, rear drum and rear disc equipped cars, the cars go cross country on Power Tours/Events, drag, road course, highway, street racing, you name it, every customer vehicle that I build or mod, gets Green Bearings...

if they're installed properly and you take into account all modifications you need to install them, you'll have ZERO issues, you just slap them in with no regards to measuring components and no modding what you need to do to install them along with your rear disc mod, you'll have issues

If you are starting from scratch then rear disc might be a better deal but you need to be careful what you buy. I wouldn't recommend Wilwood for the rear unless it is a drag only car.

Check with DoctorDiff. I think he has everything you need and if you buy from him it will actually work.

Are you going to have an emergency brake? If so, that will force you to make some choices. Drum brakes come with the emergency brake but disc brakes usually don't.

I want an emergency brake for the car. Are you saying you wouldn't use the wilwood dynalite kit or you wouldnt use the wilwoods at all? They do make a street kit that comes with a parking brake too.

Yes Wilwood makes rear brakes with e brakes. They have the small brake shoes like the most factory's use. Nice setup that is what I have for my 68 GTX

Are we calling a wilwood parking brake an emergency brake? That might be a bit misleading.

I won't use Wilwood on anything I drive. I tend to stick with the OEM quality stuff when I do a project car. Brembo, PBR, etc. If I need to go aftermarket for some reason then I'll use Baer.