Mallory unilite is a distributor. So you have no box? Just a distributor and a coil?

Yes. Distributor is self contained with internal module. Was all the rage back in the 70's.

Pm sent

Yes, i had one. But they can be used with a box. My point is if the timing is indicating differently with different timing lights, believe the non dial back one.
The problem you describe is exactly what happens when you use a dial back light on a wastespark or multiple spark ignition.

Yeah. Problems cleared up when I blew the dust off of an old timing light I had sitting around. I never noticed it on my Cuda, but I never checked advance rate since it had a locked out distributor. Testing a MSD system with a dial back light isn't too hard to do. Just make sure you have the right wires on it and I always check above 3,000 rpm.

Ice Ignition boxes have an adjustable timing curves. Not sure if there mapped every 1000rpm, but if they are i will follow what you gave me. Thanks and its just what i was looking for a few posts back.
I curently use an MSD dist with a Ice magnetic box and the only fix i have found with the 3-4* lose at rpm is a crank trigger with locked out timing.

See if you can make it work. If not, just have your distributor curved
Its probably cheaper anyways 😉

You need to talk to Baldwin Carbs. Bill knows a thing or two about MSD distributors (Actually, he says he'd rather recurve a stock Mopar distributor than a MSD unit. LOL!). Before you go making major changes, he may be able to recurve your distributor to work properly.

I tried a curve in it last year, but the engine had a way happier idle in gear with 30* initial, anything less and it just was not happy so i just locked it out. That could be the Dominator causing that. I'm starting over with that tune with some BLP blocks. Once i get that figured i will try another curve with mid 20* initial. A distributor machine would be a nice tool to have. Thanks

When I first started reading your post and you said idle quality under 30 was bad I told myself bad carburetor
Then I seen the rest with you talking about bad Dominator lol.
I believe I can help you on both ends

Thanks for the offer. I think the problem with the Dominator is the metering blocks i modified from a 750 Barry Grant for 2 circuit Dominator may be leaking fuel around the threads in the jets making it extremely hard to tune. I have it very close, but not where i want it yet. When i tapped all the jets in the blocks i made the mistake of tapping all the way thru making it hard to tighten them up. Also the jets dont fit tight in the thread, so i decided to start over with new BLP blocks and a little different tune as well from some research i have been doing.

I'm thinking you are talking about the e bleeds? I made a bunch of bleeds with brass screws from Lowes. Left a step on them to stop and tighten securely.

Yep. E bleeds and ifr and the pvcr. Threads seem different than the set screws i used. Gonna start over with blp blocks.

It was some work, but I hand filed the heads down to just slightly larger than thread diameter. Those little screws are killer on the finger tips. I took a large 1x1x6 block of aluminum, drilled and tapped for 6-32 and 8-32 threads. used it as a holding fixture while shaping the bleeds. Also held them nice and tight for drilling the right holes down the center.

I had to score the threads on the screws to get them to tighten up. Im sure fuel was leaking by the threads making it hard to tune.

I didn't use a universal tap and die set. I bought specific bottoming taps from tool & die companies. They were a very good fit. Maybe you could tap your blocks to the next size up?

I decided i'm buying new blocks. I think the tune is real close. Stopping the leaks should make it easier.

try using form taps they work much better than a standard tap and a lot more accurate sizing.

Thanks and i will if i ever attempt that again. I have some metering blocks from BLP on the way.

Did you buy blocks already with lowered ifr's? If not, you will need to drill and tap for that.