Hi, after 44 years and close to 300,000 miles I have a bad lifter on my stock bottom end cam/lifters car.
I would like to hear recommendations for replacements to use, there seems to be so many options at Summit I am overwhelmed! stick with MOPAR parts or something else?
Second, looking at the Chrysler manual it appears the lifters can be changed without removing the valley tray. I would really like to do it this way but is it practical? I do not want to remove the tray if possible as all the gaskets and tray have been matched to the heads/manifold and would rather not go through that again!. What sort of special tool is needed? probably won't be available in NZ so may have to make something.

Thanks,

Ray

Yes , I've changed the lifers on a 440 without removing the intake. I recall using a telescoping magnet tool when I did it.

Thanks Mopar,

I was wondering about issues with 'gum' ridges holding them in etc. although when I put reworked heads on a year or so ago the valley area was very clean. Now just need to pick which lifters!

Ray

It would be a good idea to check/change the cam at that mileage.The lifter faces will tell a story.

Ray, does the cam/lifters have 300,000 miles? You don't want to hear it, but if it does I HIGHLY recommend you put in a new cam/lifters/timing chain....seriously. (Option A)

Option B --> no cash, then just replace that ONE lifter & buy a stock auto parts one. IF you get lucky & the lifter isn't worn on the bottom (pretty likely it is worn & "mushroomed out"), then the big/strong magnet on a stick would work just pulling the valve covers & removing the rocker arms. After 300,000 miles, your odds aren't good that this will work, but what the heck?

Option C --> if the magnet doesn't work, then pull off the intake/carb as one piece. You might have to pry up on the lifter from beneath. If it's really stuck, you can pull out the camshaft & push it down & into the cam area and catch it (them) with a cardboard tube that fits inside the cam hole with a slot cut in it as a "catch tray". Someone on this board told me this trick recently and I just used it myself about 3 weeks ago...worked like a charm.

Personally, I'd put another cam/lifter/timing chain in it and try to go at least another 100,000 if it the engine doesn't smoke. You can get a better look at the valve gear with the intake & valve covers off.

If the motor was running really well, you might take a look at the valve stem seals while you're in there. Lastly, on a street car, there's no need at all for "fancy" lifters

Thanks PurpleBeeper,

Good to hear any lifter will work on my street motor and that the magnet method might work!! I am really reluctant to remove the intake/cam etc as I was hoping to get at least another year on this motor before a major rebuild. I had the heads rebuilt 18 months ago and the cam looked ok from a quick visual and has always run quiet. In hindsight probably should have replaced everything then!!!
I do know the chain was replaced at about 150k. The engine does burn a bit of oil but generally runs very well. Attached picture of cam lifter area.

at 300,000 miles change cam and lifters together.

I will be very impressed if that lifter comes out with a magnet...

Oops,fell foul of the rule "if the lifters are noisy check the exhaust, if they are still noisy check the exhaust, if they are still noisy check the exhaust again!!"
My plug wire brackets hide a part of the header manifold, took them off to prepare for rocker cover removal and found a pin hole leak straight up to the rocker cover flange.
So a relatively easy fix!! and now I know what to do when the rebuild comes around! thanks.

Mate that was too easy!

I gotta agree here.
I just replaced timing chain, cam, lifters, rockers, and push rods.
I admit it was because I took it apart a long time ago, and didn't know they had to go back together where they were.

Cam is a Hughes piece and the rest is stock replacement, from Rock-Auto.
Much cheaper than a failed com lobe would have been.

There is a small, inexpensive lifter removal tool that catches the snap ring lip of the lifters very well. I have that tool and a bit heavier tool that actually has a small slide hammer that helps pull out lifters past the engine varnish.

The lighter tool allows you to pull the lifters out without removing the intake. You may be able to get away with de-varnishing the internals of the lifters, but make sure its not an exhaust leak too.

I took an old bbq meat fork and bent the tines over about 1/2" long...sneak down thru the head grab the groove, wiggle them out.

Ed

If lifter gets stuck to be removed with the telescopic magnet due the "burnt oil ridges" on bottom, a hard wire bent like a hook to catch the inner snap ring will do the job too to leave the bore, then the magnet if falls from the wire after leave the bore.

Boo yah! Glad to hear it