Re: Radiator opinions
[Re: BlueRacer69]
#2455827
02/22/18 09:22 PM
02/22/18 09:22 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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how hot? confirmed with a good mech gauge? around town or interstate? what is the rest of the system; fan/shroud/pulley ratio/timing/AF ratio/no vac leak/stat opening all the way/lower hose not collapsing (somewhat rare on the last two). any recent part/tuning changes preceding it now running hotter?
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Radiator opinions
[Re: Alaskan_TA]
#2455828
02/22/18 09:22 PM
02/22/18 09:22 PM
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Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 737 Michigan
BlueRacer69
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 737
Michigan
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Another option may to have another row added to yours if possible then?
I did, its a 3 row now.
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Re: Radiator opinions
[Re: topside]
#2455842
02/22/18 09:58 PM
02/22/18 09:58 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 43,609 Round Lake Beach, Illinoisy
Rhinodart
Rhinotruck
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Rhinotruck
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 43,609
Round Lake Beach, Illinoisy
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Aluminum radiators DO NOT cool better than stock style, the ONLY difference is the weight. Plenty of studies done on that very thing. A good water pump, fan shroud, and fan are all you need. BTW, most radiators use 3/8" tubes, factory big block A-Body radiators use 1/2" tubes. Many mistakes are made when having someone recore your original radiator. I will only let Glen-Ray Radiators touch mine...
The funny thing about science is that if you change one miniscule parameter you change the entire outcome to the way you want it.
JB Rhinehart, Realist
A-Body's RULE!
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Re: Radiator opinions
[Re: BlueRacer69]
#2455845
02/22/18 10:04 PM
02/22/18 10:04 PM
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 960 Chicago
PurpleBeeper
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 960
Chicago
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Rapid has some good questions. It is not always the radiator itself. Aluminum only cools a tiny bit better than brass... a tiny bit. I has more to do with the entire package; how many rows, how large are the tubes, how many tubes per row, how much air is pulled through, etc. and bigger is not always better.
For example, if you had a 1000-row radiator, it would be too hard for air to flow through. If you had 50 electric fans, they would block highway air flow where you don't need a fan...etc, etc.
You're trying to get heat from the cylinders into the coolant, then into the radiator, then out into the outside air.
So, what is your exact "runs hot" situation?
70 Roadrunner convt. street car
440+6, NOS, 4-spd, SS springs
'96 Mustang GT convt. street car
'04 4.6 SOHC, NOS, auto, lowered
"Officer, that button is for short on-ramps"
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Re: Radiator opinions
[Re: BlueRacer69]
#2455879
02/22/18 11:25 PM
02/22/18 11:25 PM
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Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 737 Michigan
BlueRacer69
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 737
Michigan
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Robert. With a 160 high flow stat and according to my Auto-Meter temp gauge it will run 195 degrees on the move in the summertime if I'm going over 45mph. The problem is when I have to slow down or hit a red light the temp quickly rises to around 210 to 220 degrees depending on how warm a day it is. I know some say that temp is okay, but its not. The car will begin to spit & spuder and want to stall out upon take off, I think its called vapor lock, a sign everything under the hood is to hot. The car is a factory 440 Dart GTS, mostly stock except for a small cam (under 500 lift) and edelbrock alum intake. Factor radiator is a recored 3 row with the factory fan shroud in place. Rad cap is new Stant 16# and in good shape. Running a 50/50 mix of Peak anti-freeze, along with a bottle of water-wetter (no help). Replaced the factory 18 inch #213 fan with a 18 inch factory #224 fan (more pitch) to pull a little more air into the radiator (no help). Timing is set to factory stock 5* BTDC. Don't think I have any vacuum leaks that I know of. Bottom rad hose not collapsing. Car runs great in the cool weather of spring or fall. 170 to maybe 185 with the 160* stat in place. Put a 1/4 inch phenolic carb spacer under the carb trying to keep heat off the carb and stop the vapor locking on hot days, (again no help). So was thinking maybe a after-market 22inch alum rad may make a difference. Liked the looks of the Northern brand 22 inch for BB A-bodies, but not the price. Was wondering if anyone here has any experience with one? Oh forgot to mention engine has a flow-kooler water pump also.
Last edited by BlueRacer69; 02/22/18 11:33 PM.
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Re: Radiator opinions
[Re: BlueRacer69]
#2455939
02/23/18 01:26 AM
02/23/18 01:26 AM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 566 WA
tman
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 566
WA
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Re: Radiator opinions
[Re: ahy]
#2456036
02/23/18 10:53 AM
02/23/18 10:53 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 43,609 Round Lake Beach, Illinoisy
Rhinodart
Rhinotruck
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Rhinotruck
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 43,609
Round Lake Beach, Illinoisy
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I run an aluminum "muscle car" radiator from Mancini in an E with warm 496 and AC. The thermal clutch fan is slightly overdriven and and high volume water pump. Cools great. Right on 180 degree stat temp when rolling and a little warmer at a stop in hot weather.
In your situation, 195 rolling with a 160 stat means the radiator is maxed out. Not enough capacity.
A really good 22" radiator may help if everything else is perfect: good shroud, strong fan and matched clutch, pulley ratios that give some OD and good water pump. The Muscle car radiator is available in 22" and I do not know how it compares to the Northern or what you have now.
A 26" wide radiator, especially with BB, would help a lot. A 26" radiator would not work in an early A-Body unless you like using sawzalls...
The funny thing about science is that if you change one miniscule parameter you change the entire outcome to the way you want it.
JB Rhinehart, Realist
A-Body's RULE!
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Re: Radiator opinions
[Re: BlueRacer69]
#2456076
02/23/18 12:35 PM
02/23/18 12:35 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,083 Niles , Ohio
therocks
oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
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oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,083
Niles , Ohio
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I ran a stock never touched 65 C body rad and shround in my B body for years.Never went over 190 no matter what.My 440 in my 65 is radical.Had a jack slip and busted the rad.Bought a cheap Champion off Ebay for 150.It runs as cool or cooler than the factory rad.Never gets over 185.Had my doubts about it but it works.My kids 62 300 we had the OE recored to 4 core back in like 99.Shops cost was almost 400 thyen.It worked great.No shroud on it We both ran big Stainless flex fans.No problems ever.Rocky
Chrysler Firepower
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Re: Radiator opinions
[Re: BlueRacer69]
#2456091
02/23/18 01:16 PM
02/23/18 01:16 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318 Manitoba, Canada
DaytonaTurbo
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318
Manitoba, Canada
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I have a cheap aftermarket afco aluminum and it works well for me. Stock appearing or stock fitting does not concern me so I made it work. That being said, I thought brass cools better than aluminum? All the higher performance small cooling products I see are copper or brass/bronze. If you have a recored 3-row oem rad I would be looking elsewhere for the problem before replacing it.
Firstly, if you're running a 160 stat and if everything is cooling well your max temp should be holding at only 5 or so degrees above thermostat temp. Personally I think 180 is a better temp for a driver but that's a separate discussion and nothing to do with your overheating issue. Secondly, your initial timing is too low, I would bump that up to 15° because too little timing can cause overheating problems as well. Too lean can also cause overheating but typically you would see that problem at cruise, not idle. I would be looking at whether the water pump is not pushing enough, pump speed too low or bad clutch fan not locking enough to pull full air at low engine speeds. How is your fan sitting in the shroud? I think the fan blades are supposed to be sitting about 1/2 way into the shroud.
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Re: Radiator opinions
[Re: BlueRacer69]
#2456267
02/23/18 06:35 PM
02/23/18 06:35 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,122 Chicago Blackhawks
hemicar1971
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,122
Chicago Blackhawks
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I run the 160 quick opening high flow Thermostat. Stock Cast iron water pump housing and cast iron water pump drive. 26 inch 3 core stock rad and the stock shroud and a stock seven blade fan without a clutch drive. The motor is a warmed over 430 inch Hemi all iron hemi. Mechanical gauge is taken of the water pump and shows 163 degrees idling, driving or anytime. Maybe you are not holding the water in the tank long enough to cool it, if the capacity is too small. Maybe your water pump and housing are not mated if you have had this same problems with other rads without other changes. Now was you block cleaned before rebuild in the cooling passages.
1971 HEMI E BODY REGISTRY
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