Quote:

---

Quote:

---

i agree, exit, are you sure your not just seeing it worse than it really is? bacause your starring at it up close, and know every flaw on your paint??? try getting the wife to have a look at it, they're really good at pointing out everything wrong, espically when it's your hobby car!!!!! i'd stick with the red, it looks killer on that car. also when you pull it into the sun, it's a whole different story, trust me, even on my newer cars with BC/CC, you see flaws in the paint in the garage.

---

how does this paint maintain shine if nothing is done to it? thinking of just finishing the red job and leaving it and not doing any sanding or polishing on it since it seems to look good like that. eventually it will probably need to be at least polished though right?

---

if you just polish with the turtlewax polishing compound, and then wax, it will look great, and alot more shiny with the polish and wax than just paint alone.

Quote:

---

Looks great, but can you get these paints in any colors or just there own colors they make?

---

You can't color match the Rustoleum, from what HD told me.. because it isnt setup in the computer like that. They do sell tintable bases (Masstone, Yellow, Red, and Pastel) but it is being discontinued. The tintable bases were used for mixing to preselected color choices. There were maybe 100 different colors to pick from, I think. I still have one of the pamphlets.

Not sure if anyone noticed- but all of the rustoleum colors seem to have a prefaded look to them.. like if they had been bleached by the sun.. with a few acceptions ofcourse- like black and yellows.. but things like the Regal Red remind me of an old weathered mailbox where the sun and dirt transformed the orignal color over time.

I really wanted that Apple Red color that comes in their interior "Painters Touch" (something like that) line. If you can find the Tintable Red then you can have it made in oil based.

Also, when Rustoleum says that their professional lines are more resistance to chipping, does that mean there are more softeners in it? I am using the tintable "stops-rust".. not sure where that weights in on durablity. Seems tough.

Quote:

---

Can somebody answer a question really quick? I know the answer is in the older thread, but after going through pages and pages I couldn't find it -- and I have to go someplace right now and can't look through the rest of the pages.

Anyways...on my first test piece I did 2 coats in yellow and it looked awesome. No problems with bubbles. It really seemed like I had a lot of room for error with the amount of mineral spirits I could put in. But the dry Arizona air might have helped with all of this. Anyways, after 2 coats I wet sanded with 1500 grit until it it "felt" smooth to the touch. But obviously it looked flat.

So I did another 2 coats like I'm supposed to and just sanded it again with 1500. But it's flat looking again.

When I get to coat 6...I was planning on wetsanding with 2000 and then polishing with this electric orbital buffer I bought today. Is that the proper procedure? I know I probably should have sanded with 800 after the first coat...but too late for that now...if I do the 2000 and then the polishing compound is that the right procedure for me to get it to shine? I just want to double check before I go putting more paint and such on.

Thanks guys!

---

I took some pictures so you guys can see what I'm talking about. See how it's...like...bumpyish? Well, I guess it feels smooth...but...what do I do?

Sand it down until that goes away? Or is it just fine?

It's not as bad as it looks where the light is reflecting...look at the other areas besides that.

Quote:

---

I'm wondering if you could do the 1500/2000 grit wetsand on final coat and then wipe with mineral spirits and Clearcoat without the polish. I'm willing to try but have to get body work done. Painting starts this weekend

---

Quote:

---

I took some pictures so you guys can see what I'm talking about. See how it's...like...bumpyish? Well, I guess it feels smooth...but...what do I do?

Sand it down until that goes away? Or is it just fine?

---

Quote:

---

My hood looked very similar to that, and I ended up sanding off several coats to make it flat again. My problem was laying it on too thick the first few coats; now I'm doing ultra thin coats and am very paranoid about making sure it's nice and smooth. It looked OK until you saw a light reflect off it and then you saw tons and tons of orange peel... just wasn't going to cut it for me.

---