OK
I would love to hear from the guys whom built one of these so...
Lets see yours, and things you might have done different if you started over
I can either have the engine Dyno'd or build a engine test stand. First Let me make comments on the dyno's. Yes, its nice to have done, really checking out diff things like cam, intakes etc. And getting the fuel curve down, playing with timing etc. I will say, IMO some of this I really enjoy doing, and sorting out at the track. I really enjoy, engine building and tuning, almost as much as racing...almost
Anyways here is some thoughts of my engine test stand.
First it would need to be somewhat portable, to move around even with the engine loaded. So, it would need to have some HD casters/wheels. I even debated on using larger riding lawn mower tires etc. Which I already have. But would rig, or fab up some kind of "Park" mechanism to keep it from bouncing, moving around, when testing my 800+Hp wedge/Hemi engines.
It would need to be sturdy of coarse, probably 2x3 box tubing through out using 1/4 plate, for corner gussets, and 3" X 1/4" angle where needed.
Anyways
I have thought about making it versatile when using, hemi, wedge engines etc. Even though the Indy Maxx block has Hemi mounts also. Maybe some 2x3 legs coming up, that have diff mounts pinned with tractor style locking pins, for quick and easy engine mount swaps.
But the big question is the starter/flywheel setup. I thought about using a old standard shift bell housing and flywheel. Sure would be nice to have some kind of universal motor plate, that fits both, big, and small block engines, while moving and holding the starter in the correct location. This could get expensive, so I probably just use the standard shift bell housing etc.
Anyways.
It would need to have all the gauges, oil pressure, water temp, fuel pressure etc.
I would like to have some kind of ac/dc converter for my electrical supply. This way I could just set the voltage at 13.5-14 volts and be done with it. From this I would make it to run all the accessories, electric water pump, electric fan for the radiator, electric fuel pump, and ignition system. Even use a cheap tach. Any idea, or is this out of reach?
Or if not use a typical alt design (maybe GM 1 wire) have it mounted on the test stand flipped around and somewhat adjustable in out, up and down this way it wont need to be mounted on the engine etc. With this I guess I could run my gauges, using a small battery. This would make it even more portable I guess.
I have about $350-400 to spend on materials. I have some 2x3 tubing, plenty of angle iron, and 1/4 flat plate.
I would need to be a cheap gauge panel, flywheel, and bell housing. I have most of the other stuff.

So OK
What are some things to look out for with frame work? Like off the ground height, or width, length. I will build plenty of room, and make sure various header will clear etc. I will paint it up, and even snake the wiring through the tubing to give it a pro built look.

Maybe this will give you some ideas.

http://www.mightymount.com/

good luck on your project

$700 seems a bit high for what you get. I also have a problem with 5 gallons of gas in my lap while I operate an unknown engine.

I built 1 a couple of years back to test a "profesinally rebuilt" 340 on. I currently am using it as storage for my motor. I did not get around to casters but I have an over head crain to move it with. The frame I built is about 3' wide and 6' long. I built it out of 3" x1/4" angle. I used 2 pieces of 1 1/4 x 1/8 angle as an upright to mount a radiator to. The engine sets on a 3" channel cross Member with small angle sticking up for the motor mounts. I used a junk 904 housing with a strait shift fly wheel. The Transmission case just sits on a 2x4 as I have not needed any thing else in order to run the motor. I have used scaffolding casters in the past as they lock well and can be snapped in place, easly removed and used elseware. I have the casters under my 71 cuda right now to roll it around on.

You will still need a battery or something to start it. If you find an AC/DC converter that will supply the amps, then it will be expensive. Maybe one of those portable starters, but I think those still have batteries.

Built mine outta scrap. Didn't even bother to measure anything, just hung the motor from the cherry picker and started stickin' crap to it till it was what I needed...

Here is a post that is running on another forum. Maybe it will help

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31226

I have not built one, so all of this is just in my head.
1. nice, strong lower frame with casters. Have something that drops down to take the load off the wheels, rather than a wheel lock.
2. Quick disconnect radiator/fan with long hoses.
3. battery and fuel tank mounted low (center of gravity), also quick disconnect.
4. gauge panel with ignition switch. You can source these from your extra parts or a JY run.
5. front mounts that clear both the pan and any headers.
6. fire extinguisher mount.
7. either a mid plate or a pair of bellhousings that will work with SBM and BBM.
8. Flex pipe to extend the exhaust. If going with headers, have a collector flange and the pipe. If going with manifolds, pick up some head pipes at the JY too.
9. Removable tool trays for both sides. Without fenders, you will want something to set that drill motor (prime) and tools on.

Here's mine. Made from what was left of a rusty Challenger about 10 years ago. The radiator is placed in the stock location so the hoses can be left on the engine after running.I use the radiator that is going with the engine I'm running to make sure it is in good condition. All of the accessories are bolted on to the engine to check for proper function. Keeps the battery on the stand charged also. Steering components were left on to check header clearance.

That engine run stand on garagejournal looks to be a good one. Too bad there arent more pics of how he built it.

Want to go cheap? Cut the front frame off a Dakota. Could even put a hitch on and haul it around for display.

Here's an idea I had for an engine stand to build.

Make it so it would support a K member.
Have it detach all connecting portions not associated with installing into the car (when it's all ready to go) if you were putting it in from underneath. That ways it's ran, broken in, fine tuned, then ready to drop the car on. If you're going to make one, why not make it so it's ready for install after?

I think a lot of people are overestimating the material needs. 2 x 2 x 1/8 wall will be fine. Gussets on the mounts but not necessary on the corners unless you're a crappy welder. Good casters for sure but pneumatic would be much better to dampen the vibes. Unless you're anticipating running an extremely unbalanced engine or have a good slope on your floor or driveway there should be no need for "feet".

But its only an opinion - not the start of an arguement.

I probably have less than $30.00 in mine. All the steel was donated scrap. The snap on tach was $7.00 at a swap meet. TThe casters were $8.00. Everything else is from the boneyard..Just not the type of stand I would want to take to an engine stand show

Almost forgot to include a pic of my new Safety Starter Plate. No need for one of those WAY overpriced bellhousings

The removable front frame from a sixties C body makes a dandy runup stand.

I built one from scrap lumber when I was a teenager lol. Started mopar big and small blocks on it and even a buick 350.

built mine out of 2x3 1/8 inch rectangular tubing

i stacked the tubing and used big wheels to get the stand and engine up for a better working height

i use it to check for leaks and cam break-in
with the engine up its easy to change springs

i later added on to it , so i can check automatic trannys