Re: Is it reall 8to 10K to build a mild 383 bb now a days?
[Re: biggE]
#2431593
01/09/18 02:08 PM
01/09/18 02:08 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,203 Oregon
AndyF
I Win
|
I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,203
Oregon
|
If you are using the original crank, rods and heads it shouldn't be more than 4k, assembled long block, standard type rebuild with forged pistons. That should include a balanced rotating assembly and most all new parts. Maybe, but the issue is that a really busy machine shop would rather use all new parts than rebuild stuff that is 50 years old. SCAT rods are $300 a set and they are ready to go out of the box. It can take most of a day to rebuild a set of factory rods and you might not be able to save them all. Then you're hunting down some replacement rods and nobody is getting paid. Same thing with heads. Edelbrock heads are $1500 for a set. If the customer says they can't afford that and want their 906 heads rebuilt then you know you are in trouble. Depending on how hard the 906 heads have been treated over the years they might not be easy to fix. New seats, valves, guides, etc. and the bill is over $1500. Plus it takes a few days of labor to do all the work and some hassle cleaning parts and ordering stuff, etc. It is a lot easier to have Summit deliver some Edelbrock heads which you quickly double check to make sure they are in good shape and then bolt them on.
|
|
|
Re: Is it reall 8to 10K to build a mild 383 bb now a days?
[Re: Black 69 Beeper]
#2431674
01/09/18 04:10 PM
01/09/18 04:10 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 14,539 So. Burlington, Vt.
fast68plymouth
I Live Here
|
I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 14,539
So. Burlington, Vt.
|
The only real way to "save" any money on these types of jobs is to either find deals on usable "pre-owned" parts, and/or do as much of the assembly work yourself as possible.
I would think you could have a mild streeter 383 short block done for about $3k......put on some stealth/e street heads for under $1100, reuse the stock valvetrain, intake, pan, timing cover, valve covers, etc.......put it all together yourself....... Seems like you could be into it for under $5k.
Where you're located matters as well. The tri-state area is likely going to be on the high end of the price range...... Other parts of the country where everything just costs less...... It might be $1-2k less for the same job.
I'd also consider a decent used running motor.
68 Satellite, 383 with stock 906’s, 3550lbs, 11.18@123 Dealer for Comp Cams/Indy Heads
|
|
|
Re: Is it reall 8to 10K to build a mild 383 bb now a days?
[Re: Black 69 Beeper]
#2431677
01/09/18 04:17 PM
01/09/18 04:17 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,781 Keymar, MD
DusterKid
top fuel
|
top fuel
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,781
Keymar, MD
|
Since you have a bent rod and need heads, if it were me this is what I would do:
Buy: Pistons - $500 Rods - $500 Cam - $250 Heads - $1000 Head Bolts $75 Bearings $200 Gaskets $100 Oil Pan w/pickup - $90 (I've had good luck with ones from KMJ Performance) Water Pump + housing - $99 (440 source) Machine work - $1000 (Depending on what they charge and how much assembly they do) Dyno time - $500
That brings in roughly at $4200.
Than if you need an oil pump, timing chain, push rods, rocker arms, distributor, intake, carb, etc.
|
|
|
Re: Is it reall 8to 10K to build a mild 383 bb now a days?
[Re: Black 69 Beeper]
#2431727
01/09/18 06:38 PM
01/09/18 06:38 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 14,539 So. Burlington, Vt.
fast68plymouth
I Live Here
|
I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 14,539
So. Burlington, Vt.
|
A few years ago I did a low deck 511 for the FAST class. Not a high tech "high level" build, but not entry level either.
Ported 906's(way more $$ than RPM heads), roller cam, HS rockers, reworked stock intake, etc......... That motor was about $11k, dyno tested and ready to install. It would probably cost about $1500-2000 more today.
68 Satellite, 383 with stock 906’s, 3550lbs, 11.18@123 Dealer for Comp Cams/Indy Heads
|
|
|
Re: Is it reall 8to 10K to build a mild 383 bb now a days?
[Re: Black 69 Beeper]
#2431743
01/09/18 07:01 PM
01/09/18 07:01 PM
|
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399 Aurora, Colorado
451Mopar
master
|
master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399
Aurora, Colorado
|
Depends on the power and parts used, but if you are looking at a roller valvetrain (cam, lifters, rocker arms, timing set, oil pump drive, custom thick wall pushrods) it gets expensive fast. That is if you use heads that already have the correct valve springs, retainers, locks, and locators. What I am getting at is the valve train parts likely will be more expensive than the stroker kit.
If a mild build with flat tappet cam, then the valve train cost gets less expensive.
Plus, if your having the machine shop build and dynotest the engine, that is likely to be $1,000 added to the total?
|
|
|
Re: Is it reall 8to 10K to build a mild 383 bb now a days?
[Re: Black 69 Beeper]
#2431759
01/09/18 07:19 PM
01/09/18 07:19 PM
|
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399 Aurora, Colorado
451Mopar
master
|
master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399
Aurora, Colorado
|
My take on the stroker kit, is that they are a good deal if building a high HP engine. All new higher strength parts than stock, plus comes with the bearings and piston rings. After cleaning and checking the kit, it should be good to assemble with minimal issues. You save some machine costs of not having to re-conditioning the stock crank and rods.
On the other hand, if the build is really mild, near stock, you don't have to go stroker. What is the goal of the build?
|
|
|
Re: Is it reall 8to 10K to build a mild 383 bb now a days?
[Re: Black 69 Beeper]
#2431763
01/09/18 07:30 PM
01/09/18 07:30 PM
|
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 10,304 Someplace you aren't
SomeCarGuy
I Live Here
|
I Live Here
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 10,304
Someplace you aren't
|
A dyno test isn’t helping that price. Years ago I was quoted 800 bucks for break in, basic tuning adjustment pulls, and a small number of power pulls after that. That was years ago. So I wouldn’t be surprised if things got more in line with expectations if you cut that.
I want my fair share
|
|
|
Re: Is it reall 8to 10K to build a mild 383 bb now a days?
[Re: Black 69 Beeper]
#2431851
01/09/18 10:01 PM
01/09/18 10:01 PM
|
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 257 Way North Idaho
1KoolBee
enthusiast
|
enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 257
Way North Idaho
|
Thing is I just want a fairly stock 383. Its a 4 speed, factory exhaust manifolds, and I have to run the factory intake to clear the air grabber. I'm not looking for a speed demon. All I wanted was a 383-4 speed-3:55 posi car. original equipment. Brand new factory rods $50 shipped: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Mopar-1958-78-Plymouth-Dodge-Desoto-Chrysler-350-361-383-400-Connecting-Rod/401426733794?epid=1991088817&hash=item5d76e5dae2:g:EzAAAOSwh2RZ6M3h&vxp=mtr So you machinist's claim that they are hard to come by is incorrect. Ditto for used factory heads, check moparts classifieds, fleabay, craigslist, etc. Find another builder.
'68 Bee 383/TF/Factory Air...high school sweetheart '67 GTX Clone project,500 six pack,Hemi4-speed,Dana 05 Dodge Viper, 505 V-10, 6-speed Tremec
|
|
|
Re: Is it reall 8to 10K to build a mild 383 bb now a days?
[Re: AndyF]
#2431904
01/09/18 11:06 PM
01/09/18 11:06 PM
|
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,333 Prospect, PA
BSB67
master
|
master
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,333
Prospect, PA
|
If the shop is busy then they most likely don't want to mess with a low budget guy project. In my experience the low budget guys are the biggest pain to deal with. They fret over all the little stuff and since they can't afford the good parts you end up with a lower quality build. For example, the low budget guy will want to use $20 head gaskets rather than the $100 gaskets which work. Then they complain about leaks and want the engine torn down for no charge to replace the cheap head gaskets that they insisted on.
So it is very possible that if you went into an engine shop and spent some time talking about how you want it done really cheap that the owner just gave you a high price to get rid of you.
About the only way a low budget guy can get work done for a low cost is to go into a shop and tell the owner "I'm low budget but I"m not a loser.
This is so spot on. My builder will do anything I want. This is because I've built a relationship with him and he trusts me. He knows that I wont screw him, and that I will take full responsibility for my decisions/directives on things that are not perfect, at least by today's standards. I'll take what others would see as some risk in a build. I can easily get done what you want for less than 5K, including aftermarket heads, and it will run strong and last forever. But if the shop is good and they don't know you from Adam, they just cannot risk you coming back on them. They have to do it "right" by today's standards. That first shop you went to, they don't want your business.
|
|
|
|
|