Sorry, I must have missed that. My intentions are to have a street machine but would hit the strip once in awhile. As it is right now, the only way I can run it on the street is put Turbo Blue race fuel in it so it won’t tick when hitting the gas. I thought maybe timing was the issue but I have that locked out at 36*. I had a small block 340 in the car before this went in and I guess I was expecting a little more from the 505. It just seems something is not matched with the rest of the recipe. Hope that makes sense.

Ouch, what we have here is a gunnysack full of cats.

The engine hasn't been though out well during the design process. Some of the cats in that sack are nice cats, but they ain't gonna play well in the sack.

From the last post, there is no way I'm gonna lock the distributor at 36 degrees with a cam that small. Where is the cam timed at and what is the cranking compression? What elevation are you at? (Never mind, elevation 935') Bad tuning with the compression, the wrong pistons and wrong cylinder heads, is my guess.

This is where I’m at as well.
Without dyno data and/or track data it’s hard to say if the car/motor is actually under performing, or if your expectations for what you built were a little high.

I’ve had a few motors come into the shop where the owner thought they wanted “more” than what they had.
My first step is to dyno the motor as is(if it hasn’t been done previously), to see if it’s doing what it “should”.
Then after the rework, it gets dynoed again.

Looks good to me. It really does not matter what other people have to say about your build. You will know if your happy with the engine once it’s on the road an property tuned. If your not, you will make a few changes and you will learn from your mistakes or you will move on.

Ok, with this said, the combo as is should be Plenty mean enough. Somethings wrong with your tune etc.

I remember when I first swapped out my 318 for a mild built 440. The first drive wasn't very impressive, had a hard time even spinning the tires off the line, but it did have a 3.23 gear.

Turned out the carb was pig rich, after figuring that out and getting a better timing curve. Waaaay different animal, could burn the tires at will.

My point, I think what you have as built now should blow your socks off after you get it running right. I agree that your locked timing at 36* is way to much with pump gas and open chamber heads at 11.1 comp

My ride runs about the same between 28 to 34* timing. Not going any higher if I don't have to. If your Pinging, you better back her down Now!

Detonation occurs even before you hear it, and with pinging your hearing it. id be checking my cranking psi, jetting and reduce that timing. I'm guessing you may be lean since your pinging, along with the locked in timing. If this is going to be mostly a street car, you need to get Rid of the locked out timing. Especially with your lower stall vert.

I think the RPM intake is fine, but I would put a spacer on it and move up to a Bigger carb when you get a chance.. It would of been Much better if you would of started with the closed chamber heads as that would of Helped to resist detonation with your 11.1 comp vs your open chamber heads. But I think you can work with the heads you have.

I don’t see a problem with the build for a torque monster street motor. I would not change the heads since you already have them. If you want more power start with head porting. That will give you the most gain with what you have.
Next I’d throw a victor intake on it. If you still want more after all of that throw in a solid roller cam.
You’re combo isn’t perfect but it can still be made to work really well with the parts you already have.

I just bought some 84cc heads so I might as well change them. As far as the intake, I’m getting different suggestions as far as a Victor, M1 or a Street dominator.

For "power", the TF intake would likely be best....... Not the most grunt...... Likely wont fit under the hood.

Another option....... A little out there........ Have the heads opened to MW size, run the MP 337 intake.

Without trying to sound like a smart azz and at the risk of repeating myself, have you've confirmed that the motor is making the 530 hp that it should now? The car should go sideways from a 40 mph roll in second gear, and run a high 11 et at probably 118 mph in full street trim. If you don't confirm where you are at, I'm afraid that you are spending good money after bad. Its about way more than the sum of the parts, and your parts are not that far off, IMO.

Secondly, now that we know your cylinder pressure is good, I don't think the 84 cc heads will help, again, IMO

Third, with that XEHL cam there is a good chance that the lifters are about done at 5500 anyways. So I suspect that the actual improvement from an intake swap will not be fully realized, and certainly not enough to "feel" a lot better. Again, IMO

Finally, if everything is perfect now and it runs as it should and does not meet your expectations, then to make a meaningful change will take a lot more than the heads you purchased and intake, again, IMO.

Where did you see the Cylinder psi posted? I agree, as I posted, if the heads are on and built he can use them. But, I see where he already bought the 84cc closed chamber heads, so I guess hes set on changing them. That will help with detonation/quench..

differant intake-single plane
differant carb-1050 quickfuel
lower gear-3.73, or 4.10