Re: JB Weld
[Re: 62maxwgn]
#2399572
11/06/17 08:24 PM
11/06/17 08:24 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,186 Mesa, Arizona
dart4forte
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Found a place here in Phoenix, that is the only place in Phoenix that does castiron welding. Cold fusion
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
Abe Lincoln
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Re: JB Weld
[Re: FurryStump]
#2399751
11/07/17 01:07 AM
11/07/17 01:07 AM
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 257 Way North Idaho
1KoolBee
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 257
Way North Idaho
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[quote=FurryStump]You could look into Belzona super metal 1001. VERY expensive, but is the best epoxy out there. $290 a kilo. They repair shaft keyways with it. I used it to seal hole in intake port. Stands up the best to alchol in pump gas [/quote Crown Metals Royal 44-30 Mig wire is not cheap either, ($85 for 2 lbs) but might be something that would work well in a DIY situation. Gets good reviews. just wait 'till the wife goes to the store and borrow her oven for the pre/post heat. http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/com...e-for-cast-iron
'68 Bee 383/TF/Factory Air...high school sweetheart '67 GTX Clone project,500 six pack,Hemi4-speed,Dana 05 Dodge Viper, 505 V-10, 6-speed Tremec
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Re: JB Weld
[Re: dart4forte]
#2399779
11/07/17 02:08 AM
11/07/17 02:08 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,838 Freeport IL USA
poorboy
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Found a place here in Phoenix, that is the only place in Phoenix that does castiron welding. Cold fusion Cold Fusion is the way it would get welded at my shop as well. For something like that, be sure the head surface is ground flat again (have the entire head surface milled flat) before you try to bolt it up, or it will break again. If you get it welded and it breaks again, get a new manifold. Cast iron that has been through several heating cycles sometimes won't weld good regardless of the method used. The JB Weld fix lasted bout as long as I expected. It simply doesn't work anyplace there is a tension. Gene
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Re: JB Weld
[Re: poorboy]
#2399806
11/07/17 02:59 AM
11/07/17 02:59 AM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,186 Mesa, Arizona
dart4forte
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Yep. Heading over to the facility tomorrow.
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
Abe Lincoln
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Re: JB Weld
[Re: dart4forte]
#2401578
11/10/17 09:06 PM
11/10/17 09:06 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,186 Mesa, Arizona
dart4forte
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Got the manifold back. They ended up not using the old tab. Instead they formed a block of weld at the end of the manifold. Reason was the weld would be too weak. Had to grind away an inch of weld.
So now I have to grind away the excess weld enough so that the mating surface can be trued. After that drill a new hole. Once that's done then I can grind in the contours and get it as close as I can to stock. I'll use a Dremel tool for that.
Last edited by dart4forte; 11/10/17 09:21 PM.
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
Abe Lincoln
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Re: JB Weld
[Re: dart4forte]
#2401601
11/10/17 09:55 PM
11/10/17 09:55 PM
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,886 Lost and Spaced
bboogieart
master
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master
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Lost and Spaced
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I gotta say, I too, had little hope of JB Weld doing the trick. I don't believe in chemical cures for mechanical problems. I wish you better luck with this effort. Sure looks like the right way to go forward.
I have mechanical Aptitude. I can screw up anything.
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Re: JB Weld
[Re: poorboy]
#2401710
11/11/17 01:14 AM
11/11/17 01:14 AM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,186 Mesa, Arizona
dart4forte
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No, had to get it down so the machine shop can get everything true. After that I'll drill the hole then I can try and reshape everything. Keep in mind that this is a temporary fix until I can find another manifold.
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
Abe Lincoln
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Re: JB Weld
[Re: moparx]
#2401877
11/11/17 01:23 PM
11/11/17 01:23 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
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Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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^^^ that sounds like an excellent idea, I had to enlarge the holes on my manifolds just from normal warpage.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: JB Weld
[Re: moparx]
#2401999
11/11/17 04:58 PM
11/11/17 04:58 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,186 Mesa, Arizona
dart4forte
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you may want to consider the header trick i stole from mr. pbody over on the race forum years ago. that trick was to enlarge one of the attaching holes on each separate tube segment[s]. this allows the attaching points to expand and contract under use and cool down. this may take some strain out of your newly formed ear. this trick works great to seal up even thin flange headers, so i would presume the idea may have some merit for your repair as well. it couldn't hurt [in my opinion], unless the bolt holes from the factory are a bunch bigger than the retaining fasteners, which would then make this idea moot. I've done that. In addition I'll be using Rimflex gaskets.
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
Abe Lincoln
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Re: JB Weld
[Re: dart4forte]
#2403729
11/14/17 10:32 PM
11/14/17 10:32 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,186 Mesa, Arizona
dart4forte
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Well, here's an update. On Saturday I talked with a guy that had an M code Cuda at one of the local shows. I was telling him about my delima with the broken manifold. He speaks up and says he has a pair he's not going to use.
Went over and picked them up today. He had a pair and was willing to split them up. I went ahead and bought the pair. Just got home and checked the numbers. The driver side manifold which has the heat riser intact is 67-69 (900). However, the driver side is a 9002 which is a 67 manifold.
The 67 manifold would be somewhat correct for my car but I'd like to get a 68-69 manifold so I might see if someone wants to trade. In the meantime it goes to the machine shop where I'll have it mag'd and the surface trued.
Last edited by dart4forte; 11/14/17 11:09 PM.
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
Abe Lincoln
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