what are the most commonly overlooked steps/items when building an engine? Such as forgetting to take a measurement or forgetting to install an oil plug.

How important it is to clean, clean, and clean again.

$$$$ and more $$$$

And just how much overtime at work is needed to get that $$$$.$$$.

Took 6 months of CONSECUTIVE weekend overtime AND every workday to do the AMX, with more weekend work now and then after that. Yes it was more than just the engine but still, it'll cost more than you'll first figure.

This. And take nothing for granted.

Thanks to Fast68plymouth, I just found out how critical pushrod length is.

Patience

Because I have none , especially when told something completely different


How long should it take from dropping a short block off at your engine rebuilder

Them ordering all parts

Machine work on that block

Assembly of that short block


Time to get the Snowmobiles out soon

My approach is.......assume none of it is right, or that any of it fits.

Don't be surprised if everything needs to be tweaked/fixed/massaged/adjusted.

In many cases, you're assembling a pile of parts that were never even in the same room until they arrived at your place, much less have been all bolted together and expected to actually run and live and make power.

I'm still surprised pretty often by some of the stuff I get that's made wrong and doesn't fit properly.

If you're trying to make some power, and you're intent on putting the motor together yourself.......try and learn.....and really understand.....what you're doing with regards to degreeing the cam.......especially if it's a custom grind.
There is every chance lining up the dots will not have the cam installed at the desired c/l.

Every time I hear someone give the advice to just "advance the cam" I just cringe.
This is often being given to someone who didn't degree the cam in the first place.....but they're being told to advance it(advance it to where from where?)
Know where your cam is installed, and leave that question mark out of the equation.

Along the same lines, verify the TDC mark on the damper is aligned with the "0" on the timing tab.

engine assembly is like brain surgery, it is absolutely impossible to keep it to clean

A big block or a SB

When I was 20 years old I waited 13 months for one from a local mopar EXPERT. After I picked it up from him I told him I would never wait for an engine again, and never have. It takes me 2-7 days to get get my blocks machined then I take over doing everything else myself. Best thing I've ever done was learn how to build engines. At 61 years old I taught myself (with a Friends help) how to do my own transmissions.

I agree with everything but have helped people with oil leaks that were from loose or missing oil galley plugs at the back of the block and rear seals that were installed backward

Spend the money and purchase the good stuff the first time around.
Wear new nitrile gloves when handling the bearings.
Take up the gap between con-rods with a feeler gauge when torquing.
Lubricate the piston pins and cylinder walls prior to assembly.
Soak the timing chain in oil for several hours prior to install. Some say to boil in synthetic oil.
You can assemble with nothing other than motor oil. Special grease and assembly lubes are not required, but usually don't hurt. Cam break-in is an exception.
Use a micrometer/caliper/ect. to measure crank journals and bearing bores. Then learn how to subtract numbers. Leave plastigauge to the Chevy guys.
Thread chase all holes and clean prior to final cleaning.
Install cylinder head on block without gasket prior to assembly. Confirm alignment dowel doesn't bottom out and hold head up off surface.
Clean block with heavy concentration of soap and water after machining. Brake clean doesn't remove metal flake from cylinder walls.

Probably more than you asked for but I can't help myself.

Most common overlooked item is documentation. Very few people actually keep track of part numbers used, dimensions, clearances, etc. After a few months they don't remember what valve springs they used, what the bearing clearances are, what the ring gap was set at, which parts they used, etc. Then when they have a problem they have to start over.

If you are building a stroker mock up the entire engine without rings and gaskets to check all clearances and measurements before your final cleaning and assembly. Then when you have done all your final measurements and grinding on the block and heads for pushrod and connecting rod clearance take it apart and clean it all again. Keep cleaning it until the white paper towel comes clean when wiping all your fingerprints off of everything.
I always fit the cam first before anything else goes into the engine. Finally NEVER EVER install an oil pump out of the box without deburring and cleaning the passages first. I always "port and polish" my oil pump passages with a small dremel tool when I clean it and make sure the relief valve works smoothly.
Building your own engine is just about the most rewarding thing you can do for yourself
Gus

I've always built all my own stuff. Nothing is perfect. Knowing what is good enough and what isn't is crucial. Patience, if its wrong now, fix it. Once its as clean as you can get it there needs to be no interruption during the assembly stages.
Doug

Leave the "beer drinking" for the winners circle pictures.

Or late night around the campfire at the track with Friends.

I was trying to find the engine build sheet from the SA engine book to copy. I have found it before but I cant find it now.
It has the most complete list of items to check that you wil ever need.
Gus

Mockup the eng complete from head to toe with gaskets. barely snug the heads so you can still use em. Have the gaskets dry. confirm that everything/all parts fit dead on. Have all your mods/tricks/additions/checks finished. then dissassemble & clean/oil & go back together. there is nothing worse than haveing to make chips on something in the middle of your final assy when something ain't right.